most horsepower

[AnthonyO3]

Somebody please talk me out of this. I am really considering selling my mp3. But i want to know, with everything available, performance wise, what is the most Hp we should expect from the Mp3. Im talking about a Mp3 w/ turbo, just everything you can possibly get for an Mp3 performance wise what is the highest Hp numbers? Is there any way we will ever hit 300 hp?
Thanks,
Anthony

 

[1sty]

totaly undetermined as of yet. Its evolving thouhg. You can go complete engine management like spoolin which for an average guy like myself would take more time to hack in then I could ever have available. Hopefully someoe will figure out how to properly reprogramm the factory computer to allow us better fuel managemnet then we can really push it. As for now 200hp to the wheels seems to be the upper limit, allow some have exceeded it. I have a feeling 250 is where the tranny starts to blow.

 

[Kooldino]

300 is possible, but it won't be easy, and will cost a lot.

 

[big_ben]

Don't even think about 300hp. Don't let these guys fool you. Yes 300 is possible, but why. You will easily pay over $8000 to $10,000 getting it there. Why do that when you can put that towards a much better car. If you wan't 300hp, sell the MP3 and you will already be well on your way.

 

[1sty]

I'd tend to agree with Ben

 

[big_ben]

I'm not talking down to you guys, but just don't give someone false hope. This car will never see 300hp with less than $8000. The only thing left stock will be the engine block. I just think you should start out will a better platform if you want that kind of power.

 

[spoolinmp3]

You can get 230-250 whp at the most before things start getting really expensive. Ben is absolutly correct. Anything over 230-250 whp will cost upwards of 15,000 dollars and you will lose driveability on the car. Dont waste your time if your goals are that high. However if you are content with 200-220 whp, this is very reasonable and you will not break the bank as much and the car will be extremely quick and agile. Those power level feel perfect on the MP3 suspension and breaking system. Anything else would be overkill and would be a trailor queen strip warrior

 

[1sty]

IF someone want an inexpensive, great handling car and simply want to add the power to do 6.5-7 second 0-60s and 14 second quarters then this is a great car. However if you seek 12's on a budget then your dreaming.

I can only image ruffly 3K in the turbo system, 500 in the exhuast, 2500 in engine management, 2500 in forged parts and install, 1000 in clutch flywheel upgrades, 1000 for a limited slip, and god knows how much else in transmission upgrades.

Hey Ben are you decided on the Lancer or is there any other considerations?

 

[big_ben]

I'm still not sure. I am definetely going to keep the car for at least another year. Mainly because I owe more than the car is worth. Just like most new cars, the value drops the most in the first year. Right now though, I've narrowed it to three cars.

1. 2001 Audi TT 180hp Quatro - $19,000 to $23,000
2. 2003 WRX - $20,000 to $25,000
3. 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VIII (supposedly under $30,000)

I'm leaning towards the TT because it's easily affordable and it's such a beautiful car. Also the 1.8 turbo motor has a lot of potential. An easy turbo swap will put the car close to 225hp. Then upgrade the intercooler and it wil be over 225hp. Oh yeah, and it's such a beautiful car.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I'm not talking down to you guys, but just don't give someone false hope. This car will never see 300hp with less than $8000. The only thing left stock will be the engine block. I just think you should start out will a better platform if you want that kind of power.

I definitely concur. The next new car I plan on buying will be boosted from the factory!

 

[LinuxRacr]

You can get 230-250 whp at the most before things start getting really expensive. Ben is absolutly correct. Anything over 230-250 whp will cost upwards of 15,000 dollars and you will lose driveability on the car. Dont waste your time if your goals are that high. However if you are content with 200-220 whp, this is very reasonable and you will not break the bank as much and the car will be extremely quick and agile. Those power level feel perfect on the MP3 suspension and breaking system. Anything else would be overkill and would be a trailor queen strip warrior

See, that's all I want with my MP3 right now. A fairly quick street-driven daily driver that looks good, handles good, and turns heads.

 

[big_ben]

I don't want to scare off all you guys from puting a turbo on your car. It's not a very difficult thing to do. Just make sure you have the time to tune out all the quirks you will have. I just don't have time due to college and work. That's why from now on, I'll just buy a powerfull car, then just do little tweaks myself.

 

[igdrasil]

tweakings?

Hey Big_ben and spoolinmp3, I need to clarify this on me. Im planning to have the turbo in maybe 2 months, 3 as far (the spooling kit).

I have 3 issues:

1. Im Not so good with english, sometimes I see terms like FMU, FPR, LEAN, RICH, etc... and get a bit confused, I know the terms except for FMU.

2. What do you call to "tune" or "tweak" our proteges with a turbo? I have read some of your posts and can basically understand the situation...but sometimes I get it backwards.

3. I do mechanics, not dedicated, just for me, I do everything in my car, with help of course... But this is my first turbo experience ON the engine. (already driven turbo before, and did some repair, no big deal, no tunning).

As far as I know of our cars is basically concerning about the problem with the ECU fuel mappings, as you know, I want to do this safe, im not a 10+++ Psi freak.

What can you tell me about this? DO you have any information about this written in some place?

Thanx

 

[big_ben]

FMU just means Fuel Management unit I think. It's the same thing as FPR, fuel pressure regulator. But an FMU adjusts it's self according to the amount of boost pressure it sees. As far as tuning goes, you will have some problems that will need to be worked out. It's just like any other high performance car. With this car, your main problems will be with the idle and tracking down leaks in the charge piping. Any lwak you have will cause the idle to be screwed up or cause the car to stall. If you have an idle problem or problems with the car stalling, 90% of the time it will be because of air leaking from the system. The other 10% will be from fuel problems.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

 

[igdrasil]

Well...thats good to know. I think I can handle it. What Im most worried about is when flooring the gas pedal, I dont want to blew the car because of a bad tunning.

I already had in mind to run 2-psi for normal driving, and a bit more for racing and a couple of times-a-week to the track, and to be able to tune that from the insideof the car. (i think you were selling that 2-preset piece ben).

What about the knocking/pinging problems, I think I will have, I have heard it from my engine that is not turboed, I dont wanna imagine how bad it will be with the turbo.

How did you handled that?

Thanks again...

 

[LinuxRacr]

If you are getting a Turbo for a P5, I would suggest talking to WShade.

 

[big_ben]

I already sold the boost controler. But they aren't that expensive. I was going to use the J&S Safeguard to control the timing. But I never installed it because my motor crapped out before I had a chance to install it. It's for sale if you want it. I have a post that explains what it does in the for sale section. If you stay below 9psi, you will be fine.

 

[1sty]

Just as a side point to the topic, how many proteges have blown engines thus far do to turbos. I Know Ben, chdesign, Pro 5 and I thought Stue did, anyone else?

The best I can tell you for Tubo kits is that all of the BEGI/FM bought kits are still running fine other then some freaky problems not associated with the turbos here and there. Most of us are running 6 PSI all the time and some are up to 8 PSI like myself and smp3000. For the MP3s, becuase of the timing should stay to 5 PSI, Protege 5s can go to 6 PSI no problem.

 

[dichiee]

Big ben how about the R32 hehe... good choice on the TT!

What's the price range to get 250HP on the P5? Can it still be a daily driver?

 

[big_ben]

Whoa, I didn't blow my engine. I had an accident that caused my motor to become oil starved. The turbo had nothing to do with it. I ran over a semi re-tread and it knocked my oil line loose and all the oil in my motor leaked out. So now my rod bearings and rings are shot. But this had nothing to do with the turbo. As for PRO5, he had 4 guys in the car and was using a T3/T4 at 8 or 9psi with no timing control. Even the FM kit would have blown the motor while trying to boost in 5th gear like that. I'm not sure waht happened to Chdesign, I think his turbo just crapped out, that's all, nothing to do with the motor. And I think Stou's is still fine.

Here are your choices with turbo's in this car. FM is VERY mild but very durable and reliable.

Spool-Turbo is WILD, and now he is actually offering a 5-year warranty on this manifold. So he must believe that his is also VERY durable. It's all in what you want out of your turbo kit. Personally, I'd pick the Spool-Turbo.