Why you prefer NA over Boost...

Gen1GT said:
I still don't know what times you run.....
I'll guess a high 13. I need to go to some meets, unless he's sandbagging runs it will only take a few races to figure it out.(smoke)
 
yeah.. but everybody buys their cars for different reasons..
if i really wanted to go fast, i'd buy a bike (when i turn 25 - 1/4 life crisis)

i just want to have enough power to beat stupid ricers that rev at me, and so that i have SOMETHING to back the sexy look of my car.
 
Discreet is one of the faster ones here. You should come check out the MSP sections sometime, we aren't all craaaazy..... well, at least not me anyway........ :)
 
p5devil my netgear internal wireless card went out. thats what was causing the errors. it finally died. im on my old desktop now.
 
(cool) Just bought my 4-2-1 header yesterday, One step into N/A power for me. I ain't loking for to much since I want to consentrate on making it look and handle great. More power would be nice though. I am going to be running catless and strait pipe. Wish me luck.
 
I just ordered my 41 today too. I think the NA peoples will be showing some interesting results. I even have a nice progression set up, next resonator replacing 2nd cat, 2.5" axleback, WEBcam... then i will start showng some stats.
 
Aky, you know what cam specs you plan on using yet? That and the EMS are all I plan on doing before the "real" forged internals...

I also did some research on the probe forums, and a lot of dudes claim the G15 and G25 gear boxs will start to fly the hell apart at around 7600 rpm???? You guys ever hear about that? My bottem end is good for nearly 8300 rpm (thats pushing it...but that is the whole point of this engine for now), and if it breathes...thats were I will be ...A LOT...But I never even considered our gearbox tolerances...I didn't see much about the 2.0L probes, but a lot of members are running some internally modified KL-ZE V6's in their GT's, which are good in stock form for nearly 7500rpm...after a few dudes went with some ECU upgrades on the OBD I cars, they were capable of much more than that...I wish Ed would come around soon, he probably knows if anything was changed between now and then...The V6's didn't use our exact gearbox, but I did read that they use nearly identical ratio's and internals...only difference being the bell housing, and the gearbox mount location/size...been a while since I saw that though...

My constant mesh gear set won't be ready till mid July probably...but the engine could be done next week if I get off my ass...I guess I will find out soon enough...sucks though, since I don't have a readily spare box lying around...
 
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my n/a FC rx7 runs a 14.8 with my old set up 15-160rwhp ( on a bone stock motor) with my new high comp. ported motor i should be 215-225rwhp . It should be in the 13's easy ( I have nitto 555r's) all of this is out of a 1.3l motor.
 
FC3s Boy said:
my n/a FC rx7 runs a 14.8 with my old set up 15-160rwhp ( on a bone stock motor) with my new high comp. ported motor i should be 215-225rwhp . It should be in the 13's easy ( I have nitto 555r's) all of this is out of a 1.3l motor.
Are you using the stock AFM for that? I'm running one in my car, and I wondered about the upper limits of airflow it was capable of...

Install, I have a G35 in my car, and I run it to 7400 all the time and haven't had any problems. Don't know if that info helps any, since honestly, I really don't know much about the differences in the Mazda trannies other than gear ratios. I know the G is a lot stronger than the F though.
 
Yeah dude, at this point anything about it helps...It is so ridiculously hard to pinpoint what about these transaxles are weak...A lot of people popped the G15's in stock cars, but from what I remember it was always related to shift forks or something...Which has little to do with the engine's output and speed, and more to do with the shifting technique...

I ripped one with a splintered diff apart, and sent the gear set to a CNC machining shop for hopefully what will be a readily available constant mesh gear set (used the stock set for the design template...not making the constant mesh setup out of the used gear set)...That will eliminate any specific gear and bearing strength problems entirely...But if its the aluminum case that is causing tolerance problems, which it could be, it could make matters worse...

I have very little experience with the internals of gearboxes though...and I am just now starting to understand how the whole mess works...So seeing the inside of this box ( the only manual transaxle I ever saw the guts of in my own hands) didn't really show me anything on its strength...the gears were heavy...the bearings were smooth..and the syncronizers took up a decent amount of teeth width, so maybe that is part of the problem...

The constant mesh setup I am hoping for will have straight cut gears...that are nearly twice as wide as stock (the lack of syncro's allow a lot more room for the actual teeth, without any need of modification to the case itself)...it will be noisy...it will be an asshole to drive on anything but full throttle...but it will handle what I throw at it hopefully...I was just hoping to be able to switch boxes when ever I wanted...If I was taking a trip during the summer and wanted a quite and easy to shift box, I could switch to the stock one...If I had some drag events, or just wanted to rip on it big time for a couple of months...I would switch to the dog box...I don't want to willingly destroy the stock one...so it may come down to babying that one for a bit, until a replacement becomes available...
 
Cool, I remember more about the time I Broke my tranny. I remember the service guy telling me I had also broken a shift fork plus messed up a syncro. He was suspicious in that it took a lot to break what I had done to the tranny. He asked me if I had caused it and of course I said no(warranty rocks). But I had also asked if the shift forks were weak and if there were any better aftermarket ones. He told me he didn't know but to also take it easy on the tranny. Don't know how much they can hold up but I will try to find out. I feel bad for my car right now cuz I have been treating it like crap, Careless shifting and down shifting. I'm very lucky nothing has happened but maybe it is tougher than I thought. I remember there was this guy on EBAY that was selling his MP3 Flywheel and I was interested in buying it. He also told me he was a Mazda Tech and if I ever had a question to ask him. I will try to asked or try to find out on the internet to see how tough these transmissions are and how much they can hold up. Lets see if I still have his e-mail.

(2thumbs)
 
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I should point out too, that I'm on my second tranny. It's mostly my fault the first one went, with my speed shifting, heel-toe downshifting(wasnly always good at it) and my clutchless shifting. Then one day I let someone else drive my car. He's part of the Toronto Protege Club, and I just assumed he knew how to drive. He managed to break the speedometer pinion gear off inside the tranny. This is a common problem on G35s apparently, since it has happened to the two other GT owners here in Ontario. Anyways, that little gear was bouncing around inside my tranny, breakin s***. No second gear, and 4th popped out, as well as no chance in hell of a 1st gear downshit.

Other than the fact that I beat of the syncros for 2 years, the tranny was fine.
 
Gen1GT said:
Are you using the stock AFM for that? I'm running one in my car, and I wondered about the upper limits of airflow it was capable of...

Install, I have a G35 in my car, and I run it to 7400 all the time and haven't had any problems. Don't know if that info helps any, since honestly, I really don't know much about the differences in the Mazda trannies other than gear ratios. I know the G is a lot stronger than the F though.
yea i am using the n/a AFM , which is good to the 200whp range on a 7, I also have a turbo II AFM that is going in with the turboII injectors which is enough fuel for 300hp easy. The turbo II afm and n/a afm are interchangable with each other, so if you need a little more fuel for the 1st gen you can always use the turboII afm.
 
Turbos need alot of maintance too. I had a 1988 T bird Turbo Coupe. Stock ran 14.9. With the proper things done to it ran 12.8 then bame is was dead.....
 

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