Who is overboosting and to what?

Only if it's ran in series. That won't happen if run in parallel. kind of like an electrical circuit where the ground is the atmosphere.

The wastegate would be the end of one of two lines. The wastegate line is controlled by the solenoid, which is controlled by the ECU, which can't respond fast enough due to your faster spool-up.

The other line would only be a MBC venting to atmoshpere set at 15.6 psi

See attached sketch. Please excuse the crudeness

This way the ECU control is unchanged (something I think you said you wanted), and you still control boost spike.

im confused by your chart.
 
I guess the downpipe and cat back are getting the same spike with out the atp tricker on my map or a mbc. Well good input thank you.

I think its the DP. I have the same problem on 4-6 with spirited Acceleration. I too, don't want to do the ATP but may resolve to that rather than running into a wall at the cut.
 
Im sure most of you have a laptop.. so why not buy a $225 AutoEnginuity Scan Tool package and actually datalog your runs.. This will tell you where your problem is. A wideband with datalogging should show you the same.
 
Im sure most of you have a laptop.. so why not buy a $225 AutoEnginuity Scan Tool package and actually datalog your runs.. This will tell you where your problem is. A wideband with datalogging should show you the same.
Do you have this software? How does it work? I have a crappy laptop at best. Its ancient and I have to check the compatability.
 
Do you have this software? How does it work? I have a crappy laptop at best. Its ancient and I have to check the compatability.

Ill be ordering it next friday but my autotap works from my Lightning on the Mazda, so the info is there to tell you whats going on.

you dont need a high speed laptop to use it.
 
is any of this actually confirmed or is this just what they are tentatively saying??


Just to be clear, we currently do not have a working system that has control over the throttle plate, though we are in the process of developing one.

(alright)


Jordan
 
Just to be clear, we currently do not have a working system that has control over the throttle plate, though we are in the process of developing one.

(alright)


Jordan

thanks! i would just hate for somebody to listen to that without question and be disappointed in the end. I will be quite frank here, you all, CP-E, just went up a notch in my book for your upfront honesty!
 
Im sure most of you have a laptop.. so why not buy a $225 AutoEnginuity Scan Tool package and actually datalog your runs.. This will tell you where your problem is. A wideband with datalogging should show you the same.

What all do you need to do? I just ordered Auterra package. Is it the same?
 
The RPM Store has the correct system in their store. If you got the mazda version with CAN, youre good to go :)

Yeah that's about $325 then. If the mazdas first o2 is really a wideband air fuel sensor I will buy this software. If not I would rather have an AEM wide band gauge. You mentioned a slow comp being ok but mine is only usb one, and it has to be hard wired to the car because the battery is done. That's a big risk to have to buy a laptop too for the car haha. Do you think you could check the perameters of the first o2 and see what its operational range is 0-1v is narrow and 0-5v is wide I believe. My modis will not connect to the 07 because I haven't updated it since I left the dealership.
 
Just to be clear, we currently do not have a working system that has control over the throttle plate, though we are in the process of developing one.

(alright)
Jordan

Well I would like to know what CP-E is selling their customers in this situation. If I had the cpe hks ssqv, cpe intake, cpe dp, and cpe cat back what could I do to stop the boost stupidity on my speed 3?
 
Yeah that's about $325 then. If the mazdas first o2 is really a wideband air fuel sensor I will buy this software. If not I would rather have an AEM wide band gauge. You mentioned a slow comp being ok but mine is only usb one, and it has to be hard wired to the car because the battery is done. That's a big risk to have to buy a laptop too for the car haha. Do you think you could check the perameters of the first o2 and see what its operational range is 0-1v is narrow and 0-5v is wide I believe. My modis will not connect to the 07 because I haven't updated it since I left the dealership.

they are wideband. i believe 1996-newer all have wideband first 02 sensors

no new car is going to use narrowband gauges.
 
ive had researched , talked to people , rumors, .. the cpe intake is much better than mazaspeed, they tune it for the car, i have the mazdaspeed if i floo my car at relativly low seepd in 3rd thru 6 boost spike and a smal hitting sound like i hit a minaturr speed bum wtf!!!! fucken bs i wish i would have bought cpe's cia!!!!!
 
Well I would like to know what CP-E is selling their customers in this situation. If I had the cpe hks ssqv, cpe intake, cpe dp, and cpe cat back what could I do to stop the boost stupidity on my speed 3?

It's simpler than you think, you don't need to spend shitloads of money, the fix is so simple its ingenious. Instead my idea of a pressure relief valve (which these guys almost did and would work) Im going to do this. This will completely eliminate your boost spike along with mine and anyone elses for about $40 bucks.

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1836/article.html?popularArticle

Im already sourcing the valve and Ill post a complete write up when i install on my car. Damn I'm good. Unless one is just looking for an excuse to buy a standback or excede this the sure fire (and inexpensive and simple and reliable) way to get rid of boost spike.

(first)

Edit: the goddamned link is blocked, ill scan in the article tommorrow at work and post it. (no its not im a retard)
 
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Yeah that's about $325 then. If the mazdas first o2 is really a wideband air fuel sensor I will buy this software. If not I would rather have an AEM wide band gauge. You mentioned a slow comp being ok but mine is only usb one, and it has to be hard wired to the car because the battery is done. That's a big risk to have to buy a laptop too for the car haha. Do you think you could check the perameters of the first o2 and see what its operational range is 0-1v is narrow and 0-5v is wide I believe. My modis will not connect to the 07 because I haven't updated it since I left the dealership.

I dont think its going to pick up the factory wideband and output it as how we see an AEM or LC-1. Ill let you know when i got my setup going. I did purchase a LC-16 setup for the cockpit with full datalogging. You should add a cockpit AFR setup for your own personal insurance.. Be sure whichever one you get, does have datalogging incase you get a new laptop down the road or a shop can run some logs for you.

So, if it does show that factory sensor correctly, ill be able to compare its accuracy but i dont think its going to pick it up personally.
 
It's simpler than you think, you don't need to spend shitloads of money, the fix is so simple its ingenious. Instead my idea of a pressure relief valve (which these guys almost did and would work) Im going to do this. This will completely eliminate your boost spike along with mine and anyone elses for about $40 bucks.

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1836/article.html?popularArticle

Im already sourcing the valve and Ill post a complete write up when i install on my car. Damn I'm good. Unless one is just looking for an excuse to buy a standback or excede this the sure fire (and inexpensive and simple and reliable) way to get rid of boost spike.

(first)

Edit: the goddamned link is blocked, ill scan in the article tommorrow at work and post it. (no its not im a retard)


Cool this makes sence. I think someone else touched on this but wasn't as clear. I'll check under the hood to see what matches up.
 

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