Where to buy DLS Audo Equipment...

got wake? said:
the prices scott gave me that are from january of '04 list the UR36S at $629 and the UR36 at $439. you could probably find them for $100-$200 less. the A7 jumps in price to $789. if you are looking into the ultimate line of speakers, the UR36's and the iridiums are more efficient than the UP series, so you could use the A5 on the UR36S or iridium 6.3's.
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Ok, I was quoted $1000 shipped for the A5 and UP36.

I don't want to go with the A7 because its way to big for my install, so I'm thinking about going all out for a set of Iridium 6.3s.

These are rated for 100 watts and the A5 specs says it typically puts out about 85 per channel (even though its rated for 50). My question is, even though they have two separate crossovers, can they be powered by a single channel?

Also, am I doing these speakers a disservice by sending them such low power? Should I be considering a bi-amp setup...maybe a pair of A3s or RA20s?
 
the DLS iridiums are sick.. you will love them. i have pics of them in kickpanels, if u wanna see just let me know
 
chuyler1 said:
Ok, I was quoted $1000 shipped for the A5 and UP36.

I don't want to go with the A7 because its way to big for my install, so I'm thinking about going all out for a set of Iridium 6.3s.

These are rated for 100 watts and the A5 specs says it typically puts out about 85 per channel (even though its rated for 50). My question is, even though they have two separate crossovers, can they be powered by a single channel?

Also, am I doing these speakers a disservice by sending them such low power? Should I be considering a bi-amp setup...maybe a pair of A3s or RA20s?
Click to expand...


even with the 2 seperate x-overs you can run them off one channel without any problems. for being such simple x-overs, they are rather flexible.

i don't think you'll be doing them a disservice by running under 100 watts to them. the difference between 85 watts and 100 watts is barely audible. now if it was 150-200 compared to 85, yeah, there would be a very noticable difference. being that i'm assuming you'll be running the 6.5 in a free-air type setup in your door, it will require less power, but you won't be able to play as low of frequencies safely. DLS recomends IIRC .16-.21 cu ft for them, but that's so they can play down to well below 50 hz. i've had mine playing clearly down to mid 30 hz range, but that was for SQ listening only. as long as you keep them high passed above 60 hz, i don't see a need to enclose them or run high power to them.
 
Great, I was quoted $1200 shipped plus tax for the Ir6.3 and A5 amp. I will prolly cross them over around 80-90Hz. I find that open air drivers have no depth below 80Hz and they are difficult to blend with the subs at lower freq.

My Eclipse 8" subs just came in the mail yesterday (87081.4, 200 watts RMS, 1" surround, .73" xmax) which are replacing my blown ID8v3s. I really wanted the 88 series aluminum 8"s but they cannot be found. These subs came from a shop owner in PA who recently switched brands and had to remove all his equipment so he could install the new brand for demo purposes. I spoke to him on the phone and he really didn't want to give the subs up...his loss is my gain.

So the plan is...

to install the Ir driver in the stock door location. I've already got 6.5"s installed but I would like to use fiberglass to customize the door panel so you can see the driver...that is a low priority though. The Mids will be installed in the kicks off/axis to take up as little space as possible. I will be consulting this board if I have to move the fuse box. The tweeters will be installed in the stock mirror panel location. In the future I may move them to the A-Pilars but we'll see how they sound first.

For the hatch, I want to pull out the rear deck lid and duplicate it using mdf/birch and fiberglass. The A5 amp will be centered with an 8" sub on either side. Instead of firing the subs up, I was thinking about firing them down and having a window on top to display the magnet (we'll see about that though). The whole thing will be finished off with black vinyl and silver paint to match the interior. Here's the best part...I will use quick disconnects for all cables so the entire deck can be pulled out when extra space is needed.

The last piece of the puzzle will be the head unit...I'm running the stock one now but it will soon be the weakest link in getting great sound out of the Ir 6.3s. I've got a Clarion 9575rz sitting in my closet. I'd install it except I don't have the optional DEQ that goes with it. I think its the 7500z or something and I've been searching the net and ebay off and on for years. If I finish all the above and still can't find it, I'll prolly start searching for something else that has a builtin eq.
 
Shizzle be dizzle...there's one one ebay now!!!

******* ebay search engine sucks ass. searching for 7500z came up with no results but searching for DPH7500z gave me what I was looking for.
 
chuyler1 said:
Shizzle be dizzle...there's one one ebay now!!!

******* ebay search engine sucks ass. searching for 7500z came up with no results but searching for DPH7500z gave me what I was looking for.
Click to expand...


right on(rockon)


$1200 for the components and amp is a pretty decent deal. why'd you decide to get the A5? are you going to bi-amp the comps, or bridge the amp?

for the x-over point, set the low pass of the subs around 50-60 hz and the high pass for the comps at 100 hz, then slowly adjust them closer to each other till you get the desired sound you want. cabin gain in the 50-100 hz range can really fill in the gap between x-over points.

for the fuse box, i believe rider69 has some pics of how his was moved.
 
The A5 is "The Big Three", 50x2 + 300x1. DLS's numbering system does not reflect the number of channels. The 5 channel one (which I think you thought I meant when I said A5) is actually called the A7.
 
chuyler1 said:
The A5 is "The Big Three", 50x2 + 300x1. DLS's numbering system does not reflect the number of channels. The 5 channel one (which I think you thought I meant when I said A5) is actually called the A7.
Click to expand...


yeah, sorry, i had a brain fart. working about 35+ hours in 3 days turns my brain to mush. keith uses a pair of A7's in his tiburon, which is like having a pair of 4 channel amps and a 2 channel sub amp.
 
Haven't ordered the amp and speakers yet but I've been sketching my design...I only hope the sides of the hatch can hold the weight of my fiberglassed rear deck lid.

So you open the hatch and the deck lid has a slight inward curve instead of the outward curve of the stock lid. This way I can put things in the hatch without lifting it. Dead center is the amp. To each side is an 8" sub slightly tilted toward the back and center of the car. The entire lid will be about 3-4" thick to account for airspace and the height of the amp. On the underside I will mount the crossovers and DSP/EQ in small compartments (because I can't think of a better place for them). The whole thing will be wrapped in black vinyl except for some silver trim panels around the subs. The amp will look flush with the top and the connections will be facing the seats so I can hide all wires along the back. I will drill two holes in the plastic panels to run wires through. These wires will be connected with molex-style plugs so I can quickly remove them and pull the entire unit out. No wires will be visible. I will put some safety bolts in so it is secured (and won't fly off if I get in an accident).

The only thing I might change, as I said before, would be to mount the subs facing down. This might sound a little better because they will resonate in the cargo space. However, then I would have to mount the crossovers on the top. This would be less-showy since people usually want to see the subs. Non-car audio enthusiasts always ask "what are those" when they point to the crossovers. I hate that.
 
So I'm loving My A5 amp. I'm not finished with my install but I'm thinking about getting a DLS RA50 to replace the amp in my fiance's car. Anyone know the price on that one?
 
the older CA50 was $339, and i'd imagine the CA51 is close to that. and the A7 is $789, so i'd venture to say the RA50 would be around $500.
 
Have you heard the CA50 or CA51? That's actually closer to what she has now (PPI 5440 30x4+200x1). The RA50 would probably do a better job of powering her IDQ10.
 
I paid $1200 for a DLS A5 and Iridium 6.3s by calling the closest authorized dealer listed on their site. Infinite Car Audio is selling the A5 for $725 and Iridiums for $950. Hmmm.

I doubt they are authorized but they say that items are warrantied for 1 year.
 
chuyler1 said:
I paid $1200 for a DLS A5 and Iridium 6.3s by calling the closest authorized dealer listed on their site. Infinite Car Audio is selling the A5 for $725 and Iridiums for $950. Hmmm.

I doubt they are authorized but they say that items are warrantied for 1 year.
Click to expand...

So how did that work then, did that dealer ship them to you or did you have to pick them up? I'm looking at the 6.2's and there isn't a dealer even remotely close to me.
 
I sent them an email and asked about them shipping stuff to me since there wasn't a dealer close by and I gave them a list of what I wanted. They responded with a price quote and I called them up to give them my CC number and other information.
They had the items shipped from the distribution center directly to my house and it took a little over a week. I never checked to see exactly where the shipment came from. So basically the dealer was just a middle man for me to get what I wanted.
 
got wake? said:
nope, they are not authorized.


i bought my A6 and iridium 6.3's from scott bawalda. if there is not a dealer within like 30-45 miles, he'll sell to you.
Click to expand...

Would he sell to me? How do I contact him?
 
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