What have you done to your P5 today?

Over the last week I recharged my A/C and replaced my purge valve solenoid that I snapped in half over the winter while putting in my intake. Much better idle now!
Today I gave Ozzie a much needed detail, both inside and out (benefits of working in the detail dept at a dealer). After a weekend of slinging dust and mud at a music festival, he was pretty filthy.


And the inside is now cleaner than it has been in a long time! The only thing I didn't do was shampoo the carpets and seats, which I probably should've done with all the dust in the carpets.
In other news, Ozzie will have a friend in a few days and then be moved strictly to delivery duty. I'll be leasing a 2015 Honda Fit (getting super cheap through work, otherwise I'd get another Mazda) for 3 years, and by then I should hopefully have a decent job after graduating and be able to get a new Speed3 when it comes out! (2thumbs)
 
Discovered this interesting noise emanating from my engine. To me, sounds like its coming from where the belts are located, any of you guys have ideas on what it is?
 
Have you ever replaced your timing belt? Could be a pulley or the water pump? My water pump was shot and was rattling but never overheated.
 
I noticed that the left rear caliper is dragging a little bit. The parking brake mechanism seems to be moving freely. So, probably the sliders need to be cleaned up. The pads look brand new. I thought about pulling it off and checking the sliders. But, there are any replacement parts in stock in the area and the car needs to be road ready by Saturday morning. So, I wasn't going to risk messing something up.

Tomorrow I will be replacing the right rear sway bar link and polishing the windshield.

My rear calipers were seized, so replacing the slides did me no good. No amount of rotation the piston or pressing it in did any good. Just a heads up for if you replace the slides and it still gives you a hard time.

As far as the rust prevention, I am jealous/ feel ashamed. I tell everyone what to do (well, of my friends who are concerned about rust on their cars) yet don't heed my own advice. I need to, at the very least, POR15 the inside of my trunk behind the rear wheels. I can see daylight now- I can only imagine how much worse it can get.

If you haven't already, have a look at the bottom of the doors. I took those plastic things out of the bottom of the doors. They sort of held water and may have been the reason at least one of the seams on my doors went out... To me, it is what it is. I'd like to replace it with a Colorado owned Jeep and rustproof that. Then I'll have something a little more capable in the winter. Not saying mine doesn't do what I need it to, but I'm looking to getting a loan to buy and MS3 at some point in time (still hasn't happened for those who have heard it before from me)
 
Have you ever replaced your timing belt? Could be a pulley or the water pump? My water pump was shot and was rattling but never overheated.

I personally have not changed it, and I am unsure if the previous owner changed either of those (im assuming not as while ive owned the vehicle it has gone over 100k miles and when it was purchased by my dad I believe it had less than 60k). So possibly then both of them could/should need servicing? Ive checked the belts before for wear and such and they seem fine, but the noise just started a week or so ago and I tend to freak out over little noises that are new and I havent heard before when it comes to cars haha.
 
Pic of my car at this weekends local MazdaFest.
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I personally have not changed it, and I am unsure if the previous owner changed either of those (im assuming not as while ive owned the vehicle it has gone over 100k miles and when it was purchased by my dad I believe it had less than 60k). So possibly then both of them could/should need servicing? Ive checked the belts before for wear and such and they seem fine, but the noise just started a week or so ago and I tend to freak out over little noises that are new and I havent heard before when it comes to cars haha.

I would go a head and do that especially if the noise is coming from that area and if it hasn't been changed. I bought my timing belt components from rockauto and it wasn't to expensive just make sure you get all of the parts before tearing her down.

And clean car CR3 she looks beautiful
 
I haven't been in here in a reeeeeeaaaaally long time. Most of my projects have been put on hold due to finishing school last December and job hunting. I managed to get handed a job at an online aftermarket motorcycle parts and accessory shop so I am finally able to get back to fixing some of my problems and get my P5 back up to par. She runs great, but there is a lot of rust and some suspension issues surfacing (struts, ball joints, and wheel bearings) that need to be addressed before this winter. However, I will be in desperate need of tires this winter as my commute is 45 minutes each way on a toll road. By the time spring rolls around, they will be bald. I picked up a set of MSP rims last year and haven't had the money to put tires on them until now, but I think I'll wait till spring for those and throw some Blizzaks on the stock 16's for the season. I'm hoping to get the rust fixed next summer so she can be sexy again!

My latest endeavor was putting in a new alternator yesterday morning. I was heading out of town Friday night, for the weekend, to visit some family and I got about 30 miles from my house when all of my lights dimmed and the ABS light came on... no battery light. Earlier on Friday we had some nasty storms roll through and left some lakes on the roads. I hit a big one and developed a bad whine from the alternator. After I got home and let her "dry out" for a bit, I got in the car and headed out. Right before all of my lights dimmed, I smelled something funny and got nervous. Sure enough, the alternator fried. I somehow managed to make it back home on my battery alone. As it turns out, our cars can go into a sort of "limp mode" and cuts back to the bare minimum electronics. My radio cut out, my cigarette lighter went out and stopped charging my phone and my transmission computer stopped working and wouldn't allow the trans to shift anymore. I checked my voltage right after the alt went out and it was at about 10.5V. When I got home it was down to 7V. Lucky for me, Autozone was still open for another hour and actually had my alternator and both belts in stock!

$245, some research and 3 hours later and she was alive again! I was lucky the drive home didn't kill the battery.

Some advice for anyone who hasn't had to change their alt yet, it WILL come out from the top. After you get the alt off the mounting and adjustment brackets, put the bottom bolt back in and give it a few turns for the teeth to grab. Use that as a handle to get it out. Also, move stuff out of the way, besides the cruise control. There is no need to move the axle or disconnect any part of the exhaust.

You need to remove the canister on the firewall AND the bracket or you will not get it out without breaking something, nor will you get the new one in. Also disconnect the vacuum hose on the left and tuck it away.


Here is the side by side comparison of new and old:


And there it is all nestled in there:


One more thing to note, if you take of the bracket holding the power steering lines onto the rack under the car (directly below the alt) your life will be much easier. I didn't get any pictures of that because I just wanted to be done.

A few nuts and bolts and some patience and it shouldn't take more than 2 hours. I was also not fortunate enough to be blessed with an unmolested car. Someone had replaced the belts before and stripped the head off the adjustment locking bolt before I got her. Had to walk the old belt off the pulley and the new one on. She's done though!!!!!!!

Next..........
 
Finally reconnected my e-brake from my brake swap a year ago.....on one side. The driver's side rear caliper didn't have the bracket for the e-brake. Seems pretty strong, but only when the car is already stopped. I know that's all I really need, but it'd be nice to know that it can stop it at a slow roll. How easy is it to adjust the e-brake? Or is it not going to get that strong? I have no clue, since I bought the car with completely rusted brakes and a weak e-brake that hardly held the car on level ground.
 
Ended up using a different piece of piping to connect the new air box. mounted up the catch can and new WPN-R overflow tank. Also modded the overflow tank where it will actually be of use where it can transfer coolant back and forth (stupid design). Note to WPN-R...put the damn nipple for the coolant inlet at the bottom of the tank where it can do it's job without modification and leave just the overflow one up top. Also using the hole in the elbow up top for IAT vs. one in the 505 intake box. Plugging the one in the pipe would be ugly and doubt there will be any more than a coupla degrees difference between using the one on the box and the one on the piping. Also makes the MAF/IAT harness fit better even tho I had seperated them a bit to reach box and MAF.

Now to take it all back out and finish hooking up a few electrical connections, running the lines for the catch can in it's new location, cleaning up the piping a bit and putting it all back in place. Finally happy with the positioning, all matching couplings & layout of all the changes. Then to button up the splash pans underneath. slap on the gtspec ltb while down there, fill up and finish flushing/refilling with new coolant and see what we got. No more bad spy pics. Will take decent ones when done.
 
Burnt all of Sunday putting in the SR Motorsports cams, only to find a huge oil leak and realize new cam seals didn't go on. Going to try to finish tonight.

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OK, here's a few better pics of some of what I've screwing around with. Still work in progress but getting there. Everything has it's place as all has been mocked up to fit. Still need to take the intake back off and clean up a few things, add clamps, run the catch can lines and put it all back in. Looks much better than the old stuff if I say so myself................

Old...............

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New.............

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Wife's Note 3 not much better pics than my Casio Commando. Real pics when projects are all done and can get car outside.......
 
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Finally reconnected my e-brake from my brake swap a year ago.....on one side. The driver's side rear caliper didn't have the bracket for the e-brake. Seems pretty strong, but only when the car is already stopped. I know that's all I really need, but it'd be nice to know that it can stop it at a slow roll. How easy is it to adjust the e-brake? Or is it not going to get that strong? I have no clue, since I bought the car with completely rusted brakes and a weak e-brake that hardly held the car on level ground.

I would definitely like to adjust mine, I don't know if I can adjust the e brake or if I have to replace my rear brakes. Right now if I'm not in gear on a hill, the car will keep rolling for a disturbingly long time.
 
I would definitely like to adjust mine, I don't know if I can adjust the e brake or if I have to replace my rear brakes. Right now if I'm not in gear on a hill, the car will keep rolling for a disturbingly long time.
That's the way mine was when I bought it, but my car had been on the lot so long that the brakes were rusted through and the rear brakes were next to disabled until I swapped them. So maybe it needs new brakes?
 
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