What have you done to your P5 today?

Yea I agree with you on paying to play. I never installed this on my last P5 and certainly not on this one. It came like that from the previous owner to me I am still tryna get my head around why people would want a 2mm larger bar under ur car. I can understand if there wasnt one in the first place but c'mon knowing that its gonna snapp or give you extra work its not worth it. I mean if I cared to make my stock bar look like the racing beat I'd rather spend 5$ on a can of red spray paint and 2$ on a decal to be made.

Such a waste if you ask me. I want a stock one.

The effectiveness of the sway bar is proportional to the diameter of the bar to the 4th power. For example, the coefficent d^4 is 130321 mm^4 for a 19mm bar while the 21 mm bar yields a coefficient of 194481 mm^4. In short, the extra 2 mm relates to a bar that is 50% more effective than the 19mm one. Hope that makes sense.
 
The effectiveness of the sway bar is proportional to the diameter of the bar to the 4th power. For example, the coefficent d^4 is 130321 mm^4 for a 19mm bar while the 21 mm bar yields a coefficient of 194481 mm^4. In short, the extra 2 mm relates to a bar that is 50% more effective than the 19mm one. Hope that makes sense.

that's awesome info
 
If I'm wrong, someone please correct me, but that's what I've learned. There are plenty, and I mean plenty of people on this forum that know a hell of a lot more than I ever will about suspension and the automotive scene in general.
 
The effectiveness of the sway bar is proportional to the diameter of the bar to the 4th power. For example, the coefficent d^4 is 130321 mm^4 for a 19mm bar while the 21 mm bar yields a coefficient of 194481 mm^4. In short, the extra 2 mm relates to a bar that is 50% more effective than the 19mm one. Hope that makes sense.

My thought process: (scratch) (confused) (screwy)
 
Me three. Damn thing is pissing me off right now. What's more, I just found out my neighbour's summer project has been restoring an FD.... to sell it. Tempting....

That said - onto the P5. Reinstalled the headliner after painting the sunroof cover black last night, got my tires mounted and balanced ($50 for all four - thank you crazy asian guy off kijiji) and realized that I did a bad job painting them so I'm gonna touch them up. Almost got the interior put back together then one of my stupid bad cupholder LEDs decided that it didn't want a wire attached to it, so I have to pull that bank of three LEDs and hot glue 3 new ones in. Thank you eBay.

Also, I went to put in new cluster lights (red LEDs) and I know how they have set polarity and what not, but I twisted them and rotated them and tried every concievable combination of placements to get them to work in the cluster, but they wouldn't. I know they work, though, because I tested them in the dome lights. I'm starting to think that our cluster lights are wired in series - is this true?
 
Dropped mine off at the mechanic, goodbye terrible wheel bearing grind. Also, some filled motor mounts are going to be swapped. Now I have to take the Charger to work :(
 
The effectiveness of the sway bar is proportional to the diameter of the bar to the 4th power. For example, the coefficent d^4 is 130321 mm^4 for a 19mm bar while the 21 mm bar yields a coefficient of 194481 mm^4. In short, the extra 2 mm relates to a bar that is 50% more effective than the 19mm one. Hope that makes sense.

Are you assuming a solid bar, or a hollow bar? Take into account the difference in wall thickness? Just thoughts running thru my head.
 
Are you assuming a solid bar, or a hollow bar? Take into account the difference in wall thickness? Just thoughts running thru my head.

You know I thought of that and I want to make the assumption that the effect will be negligible at least speaking in terms of relative stiffness (that's what she said). Another thing to note is that I assumed that the arms on the bar are the same length. This is how the adjustable sway bars work. You can't increase or decrease the diameter of the bar on the fly but by changing the point at which you attach the bar to the link, you effectively change the arm length. Shorter arm length = more stiffness.

On top of all of that, you have to take into consideration how good the sway bar links are, how well the bar is positioned, and blah blah blah. I was just comparing a theoretical set of bars that were placed in the same configuration with only a variation in diameter.
 
Oh, I know what you were doing. That's why I had to throw that out there. ;) Theoretically, my 21.5mm AWR bar is stiffer than the 22mm Progress bar, based on where my mounting points are.
 
holy crap!
Well def makes sense I never realized that. I know next to nothing about suspension except how to lower cars and pretty much if theres banging/creeking/clunkin r n e other random noise while hiting a bump time to get ish checked out lol!

But thanks that info is great and I can kinda see why it would make sense. But an N/A p5? My boat has more horsepower than my car Im almost ashamed to admit that right now but meh, I should put a sway bar on my boat haha
 
Proteges never were, and never will be fast cars. What makes them fun is the handling abilities. A few tweaks to the suspension turns them into even more fun cars to drive. My Civic has a smaller motor and more power than my Protege, but it's not nearly as much fun to drive.

I'll take cornering ability over straightline speed any day.
 
Drove mine to work as well and my Progress bar is still sitting in the basement. :( Need to figure out just what I want to do with the car. Put it on the curb last night but the trash guys didn't take it. lol

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