What have you done to your P5 today?

well mine is officially totaled out. still runs and im keeping it. but thinking of putting some parts off of it up for sale. havent decided whether to or not.
 
Painted one of my stock wheels gunmetal w/ silver center cap to see how it would look. Me likey. Too bad all my wheels look like they fought a cheesegrater attached to a 12hp engine. I have some work cut out for myself.
 
Finished up a couple of things today. Although there are still a few things I have to take care of before im "content" (for now lol)

Here is a pic of the finished doors.
photo9-4.jpg


I really do need to clean the car, inside, out and the engine bay.

Also going to put my new intake piping in and get that smashed filter out of there. haha.
 
So far in the last couple days I have :

Installed Front & Rear window visors
Washed & chamoised car
Clay bar'd the bonnet & guards
Polished Bonnet & Guards
Re-applied trim detailer
Cleaned windows

Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I can finish the polishing & clay barring, and get started on detailing the interior ;)
 
Got plates and on the road last nite!
Ordered cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads.

To open the gauge cluster is a no-brainer it takes 10 minutes to have the gauges out. I am sure there is a how to but if you do need info on it. Feel free to send me a PM
 
was 900+ miles away from the protege for 2 and half weeks, came back it was covered in pollen and dust of construction on a major highway about half mile away, this morning i washed her up and the 2 yr sealant is still holding up quite nicely water evaps and beads right off :D :D :D unfortunately no picture
 
I adjusted the clutch pedal this weekend so the engagement point is closer to the floor. It's nice when such a small modification makes the car so much more pleasurable to drive.
 

The procedure in the service manual is pretty good, it's on page 05-10-04.

Here's the gist of it:
  1. Get a 10mm and 12mm box-end wrench, a light and pillow (if you value your back).
  2. Pull the driver-side seat all the way back and put your tools near the pedals.
  3. Looking at the clutch pedal you'll see the rod that goes through the firewall into the clutch master cylinder.
  4. There's a 12mm nut keeping the rod from moving, loosen it.
  5. Turn the rod using the 10mm wrench so that it moves away from the firewall, this makes the clutch engagement closer to the floor.
  6. Tighten the 12mm nut.
  7. Now you'll notice that the pedal has a lot of free-play, ie. when you push it in there's a large gap where the pedal is very easy to press and then it gets hard.
  8. To get rid of this free-play there's a 12mm bolt that needs to be adjusted right above the pedal. There's a switch in the way of the bolt, twist it out to remove it.
  9. Loosen the nut that holds the free-play adjustment bolt (also 12mm).
  10. Turn the bolt clockwise (so it goes towards the firewall) until the free-play is very small. There needs to be a little free-play otherwise you risk having the clutch always partially disengaged.
  11. Let go of the pedal (this will hold the free-play bolt in place) and tighten the nut.
  12. Re-install the switch and you're done.

You'll know if you moved the engagement point too close to the floor because you'll have trouble shifting ;)
 

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