What have you done to your P5 today?

Just gotta feather it out! You'd be amazed at the depth of scratches that will sand out of plastic. It's like metal, you can take the material away enough to feather scratches and imperfections out. You'll need quite a few coats of primer after that though, most bumpers get all fuzzy like a tennis ball!
 
Yeah, that's exactly what happened. I have a couple small fuzzy spots, but overall, not bad for my first attempt at repainting stuff!
 
hey josue......sometime.in the future Im gonna tempt fate and redo my front bumper cause it looks like poo and crap. ...you know.anyone who can color match rattle cans or good paint to be used.....my car is yellow.......and what is a decent paint to be used on the rear valence. ...i have tons of rock marks....was gonna do the Matte back for that and the mirror covers but what kinda paint?
 
You can check to see if Auto Body supply stores in your area can put paint in a rattle can for you. Other than that, you'll have to do some searching online for a place. I know it can be done though, I know alot of people who color match interior pieces this way.

I don't know that I'd paint a whole front bumper like this though. It would be more durable to base/clear it out of a gun, but much more expensive.

As far as brands go, you'll get a ton of different opinions if you ask people in the business. I've always heard PPG was good stuff, but it's not the cheapest. I don't have a preference because I don't paint much, just body work.
 
This weekend had to have been the busiest for car work evar!
1. black my head lights,
2. re installed/buffed the lenses out
3. rust proofed the entire front end.
4.Lowered the car on springs n struts
5. wash/clay barred/waxed
6. installed 6 x 2" tweeters in a box
7. ran 3 more RCAs sets for the commin audio
8. painted rear valence
9. removed side skirts for repair/paint (BC2 sides)


This morning I removed the gauge cluster surround and cup holder to be painted midnite blue to match the car. Dropping my lip, side skirts and int pieces to be repaired/painted.
 
This weekend had to have been the busiest for car work evar!
1. black my head lights,
2. re installed/buffed the lenses out
3. rust proofed the entire front end.
4.Lowered the car on springs n struts
5. wash/clay barred/waxed
6. installed 6 x 2" tweeters in a box
7. ran 3 more RCAs sets for the commin audio
8. painted rear valence
9. removed side skirts for repair/paint (BC2 sides)


This morning I removed the gauge cluster surround and cup holder to be painted midnite blue to match the car. Dropping my lip, side skirts and int pieces to be repaired/painted.

busy weekend, can't wait to see the finished pics.

I fixed my Bluetooth this weekend (new hands free law) and modded the AC to be controlled by me and not where i put the fan control.

IMG-20110612-00119.jpg
 
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busy weekend, can't wait to see the finished pics.

I fixed my Bluetooth this weekend (new hands free law) and modded the AC to be controlled by me and not where i put the fan control.

IMG-20110612-00119.jpg

Whatd u do to the control? And pics will be up soon of progress.
 
Drove to work in the boat....all of you that have run without the rsb know what I mean. Better than last week where I was nervous with every upcoming turn on whether or not something else would break.

Progress rsb, AWR end links and BNIP Energy Suspension bushings/brackets going up f/s tonight. Have to wait until I can get proper pics up.
 
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..............and modded the AC to be controlled by me and not where i put the fan control.

What do you mean by this? I noticed on my p5, that the A/C doesn't seem to work on fan speeds 2 and 3, just 1 and 4. The fan is still blowing, but the A/C light goes off and you can hear the compressor kick off. Sometimes the light will flicker on those settings though, so I didn't know if this was factory, or if there's a malfunction somewhere...
 

What do you mean by this? I noticed on my p5, that the A/C doesn't seem to work on fan speeds 2 and 3, just 1 and 4. The fan is still blowing, but the A/C light goes off and you can hear the compressor kick off. Sometimes the light will flicker on those settings though, so I didn't know if this was factory, or if there's a malfunction somewhere...

Ah HA! So it's not just mine...lol

Thanks!

i fixed it that way as well as this how to

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?55382-How-To-Disabling-Automatic-A-C-Defrost-modes
 
Drove to work in the boat....all of you that have run without the rsb know what I mean. Better than last week where I was nervous with every upcoming turn on whether or not something else would break.

Now you can have the "Boatege5" title :)

I put on my stock sway bar on friday, the difference is incredible in the corners. And I'm not even talking about fast corners, you feel it even at 20-30km/hr.
 
lol....I drove w/o for several months before I bought the Progress bar. And you def. notice that difference in the corners but IMO is better than running with the sway bar attached minus one bracket. I would go into turns that I could normally do 60mph thru with ease and the rear end would start to come out on me at 40ish mph and I'd have to back down.

Stock bar is going back on...just trying to find someone who may have some OEM MSP links and P5 rsb brackets/bushings laying around.
 
Rockauto has the endlinks for <$15 each and Mazda sells the bushing for $4 each (I can get you the part number if you'd like). Not sure where to get the brackets cheap, iirc Mazda wanted $30 each for them.
 
^^^Really? I checked OMPs site earlier and got a price of $29.28 for MSP links, $2.91 for P5 brackets and $8.41 for the bushings. I'll be checking Rockauto to compare prices with NAPA.
 
Damn, I should have got new brackets for that price! The brackets for the non-sport suspension are $30 each, that's what I was getting mixed up with.

The part number for the bushings I bought is GE4T-28-156, OMP has them for $3.43 each.
 
Oh man, did you buy the $30 brackets? That said, I wonder how we got different prices on the bushings? I don't have a part # but when looking them up on OMP that's the price I got. I'll gladly pay $3.43ea though. :)

Perusing Rockauto now for end links....gotta make sure I order the right size. lol
 
I didn't buy them because I thought they were $30 each, I took a wire wheel brush to my old ones and repainted them.

The guy at the Mazda dealership where I bought my bushings showed me the two varieties and they're identical in size. Maybe they're a different rubber compound? Either way he said I'd be fine with the cheaper ones, and he was right :)

For the endlinks you need the 6.5" ones (aka "w/ sport"), the descriptions really make it confusing...
 
Picked up some spiffy split loom sleeving. Replaced most of the OEM stuff.

Going to pull the sideskirts and get the front lip ready for paint.
 

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