What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Try cleaning your IAC Motor which is right on top of your throttle body. I did my EGR valve yesterday which never seems to do much, but today I did my IAC. It was cruddy and caked with carbon build up. I won't know until I'm in traffic after work but it seemed noticibly better! It is just 2 T25 torx bolts with that post that has to be ground down or a hole drilled in the torx driver.
MyZmZm
You can check very easily if you have a multimeter check any change in resistance under throttle conditions. The shop manual says to unplug the 02 sensor and probe the top left and bottom left circuit in the 02 sensor harness and hold rpm's to around 3000 until the voltmeter reads 0.5-0.7 volts and then on decel it should drop to 0.0-0.5. basically if there is up and down fluctuation from accel to decel the sensor is good. Unless you are like me and you probed to hard and bent the socket in the harness and caused an incomplete circuit. I figured this out after putting in a new sensor!
MyZmZm
You can check very easily if you have a multimeter check any change in resistance under throttle conditions. The shop manual says to unplug the 02 sensor and probe the top left and bottom left circuit in the 02 sensor harness and hold rpm's to around 3000 until the voltmeter reads 0.5-0.7 volts and then on decel it should drop to 0.0-0.5. basically if there is up and down fluctuation from accel to decel the sensor is good. Unless you are like me and you probed to hard and bent the socket in the harness and caused an incomplete circuit. I figured this out after putting in a new sensor!
amaff, shane, thanks for the suggestions. i'll have to see what i can figure out. when i had the clutch and flywheel changed in march, they did clean the egr and ever since then the idle has been about 200rpm lower than what it was previously. i don't know if they lubricated the slider for the egr, and the guys at the shop couldn't remember (it wasn't itemized on the work order whether or not that had been done).
i hate to ask and sound even more naive, but what does the IAC look like? do you have a pic of it so i know what i'm looking for? i wouldn't mind checking that possibility out... i do know that when i took the car out this evening (first time driving it after the CEL went away) to fill up, the car seemed to run better and feel more 'normal' than it has in a couple of weeks. seemed more peppy too, so maybe it was just a loose connection in the harness that was rectified after plugging it back in. (dunno) how it could have come loose, if that was indeed the cause, is beyond me. i don't go offroading in my baby...
i hate to ask and sound even more naive, but what does the IAC look like? do you have a pic of it so i know what i'm looking for? i wouldn't mind checking that possibility out... i do know that when i took the car out this evening (first time driving it after the CEL went away) to fill up, the car seemed to run better and feel more 'normal' than it has in a couple of weeks. seemed more peppy too, so maybe it was just a loose connection in the harness that was rectified after plugging it back in. (dunno) how it could have come loose, if that was indeed the cause, is beyond me. i don't go offroading in my baby...
RedHotP5 said:Cool....I want one too. Will be looking for that how-to.
Installed one in mine last year, very nice, install is very easy. Can be hooked up in place of the original, just need to trim the back on the grill, swap out a fuse and good to go.
Let me know Mark, when you want to do it.
Threw a CEL for the second time since owning her today (pissed) . Ran up to the Advance Auto Parts as soon as I noticed it fearing the worst. Well I got the code read:
P0140 - CKT No Activity (Banke 1 Sensor 2)
So "fortunately" it's just an O2 sensor - I guess it could have been worse. Once the car cools down I'm gonna get under her and check all the wires and connections. I had the code reset and it hasn't come back on yet. I'm going to hold off buying the $175 replacement part until I know mine has gone bad.
By the way, that code pretty much says the sensor is dead, correct? This isn't something that would have been caused by the non-fouler trick, right?
P0140 - CKT No Activity (Banke 1 Sensor 2)
So "fortunately" it's just an O2 sensor - I guess it could have been worse. Once the car cools down I'm gonna get under her and check all the wires and connections. I had the code reset and it hasn't come back on yet. I'm going to hold off buying the $175 replacement part until I know mine has gone bad.
By the way, that code pretty much says the sensor is dead, correct? This isn't something that would have been caused by the non-fouler trick, right?
wow, I just saw this after I posted. I just got the P0140 today as well. Did you get this resolved by getting a new sensor? I just reset mine for the time being and I'm going to check everything once the car cools down. This is the first time I've gotten this code.MyZmZm said:
I just thought of something though. I do backfire a little while downshifting when the car is warmed up. Will this kill an O2 sensor?
If the non fouler's choked up, yeah, I can see it throwing that code. You said you just bought the car. Does it have an aftermarket header installed? If not, it shouldn't have non foulers on it. Just make sure every thing's plugged in before you go buying new parts. I came close once lol
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
MyZmZm
The Idle Air Control Motor is directly on top of the throttle body where the intake piping leads into the intake manifold. It is a black cylindrical motor with a brass colored bracket over it. I highly recommend this to anyone with idle issues. My idle has smoothed out 100x better than it was!
The Idle Air Control Motor is directly on top of the throttle body where the intake piping leads into the intake manifold. It is a black cylindrical motor with a brass colored bracket over it. I highly recommend this to anyone with idle issues. My idle has smoothed out 100x better than it was!
Are you responding to me? I've owned the car for over 2 years now and I've turbo'd itaMaff said:
. Anyhow, yeah I guess I'll have to get under there and pull it out and check everything out. I hope it isn't broken - $110 for a new one just sucks. Also if the non-fouler is clogged already I'm going to be pissed - it's only been on there since late May. Damn MSP ECUs running so rich. Well I can't do anything now but wait because it's too hot to do anything!well last weekend a freak hail storm battered my P5.
Today I found out I was running on no oil. Great.
No leaks or blue smoke, but barely a couple oz. of fluid came out.
I noticed an oil light when cornering hard, but I would assume with such little oil, it should have been on all the time. I guess not.
I swear when I double checked the oil dipstick (a couple weeks ago) there was oil on it. Now I keep questioning what i saw.
Today I found out I was running on no oil. Great.
No leaks or blue smoke, but barely a couple oz. of fluid came out.
I noticed an oil light when cornering hard, but I would assume with such little oil, it should have been on all the time. I guess not.
I swear when I double checked the oil dipstick (a couple weeks ago) there was oil on it. Now I keep questioning what i saw.
Yesterday, I swapped the muffler back to stock from the MSP one that was on there.
<- Sad me.
<- Happy wife. (It is her car)
Sometime soon I need to get back into the instrument cluster and re-install the Dave B speedo ring, as it's fallen out of place. From everything I've heard, this has never happened before in the history of Dave B rings!
<- Sad me. <- Happy wife. (It is her car)Sometime soon I need to get back into the instrument cluster and re-install the Dave B speedo ring, as it's fallen out of place. From everything I've heard, this has never happened before in the history of Dave B rings!
Yeah I just want out and pulled the thing out. The nonfouler was not plugged but I wasn't able to remove the sensor from the nonfouler (I don't have the right wrench size up at school) but everything looked straight. I even disconnected and inspected all plugs and wires for the sensor and all those looked fine too. So I plugged everything back in, making sure everything was nice and tight and away from anything harmful. I also disconnected the battery and let the system reset. Started her up and everything seemed fine. The only weird thing that happened (and this has happened a few times before) is my wideband was reading too lean at idle (ie. around 17:1) but after I blipped the throttle a few times it went back down to normal. I took her out for a hard run and everything seemed straight - no bogging, stalling, hesitating and the same rich-as-**** AFR at WOT. So who knows, maybe it was just a hickup. I guess I'll find out in a few miles...amsgator said:
well, my CEL came back yesterday evening after driving through the mall parking lot (pretty rough roads). so i'm almost wondering if the actual connection for the wiring between the sensor and the rest of the harness is funky, and the sensor itself is ok... (scratch) magnum, maybe this is your problem too? dunno. my non fouler is clean now, just a little rusty on the outside after two years of being under the car, so i know that's not the problem.
is there any way to check if the connection is faulty? if it is, how can i determine which end is the 'problem' and how can it be fixed? the car is running a bit better even with the CEL, but i hate having it on all the time and i don't want to buy a new OEM sensor if it's the connection that's bad... ugh, the joys of owning a car. lol
is there any way to check if the connection is faulty? if it is, how can i determine which end is the 'problem' and how can it be fixed? the car is running a bit better even with the CEL, but i hate having it on all the time and i don't want to buy a new OEM sensor if it's the connection that's bad... ugh, the joys of owning a car. lol
magnumP5 said:
