What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
So I'm guessing you tried to roll with a bat and failed...
Yessir. I wrapped a t-ball bat in a towel with duct tape and "rolled" them. I thought it worked pretty well but then all the paint started to crack and rust when winter came around. And I used a heat gun. Then I rolled them with a fender roller and heat gun last year. I still highly recommend a proper fender roller and heat gun and lots of patience. But if they turned out great for you then kudos, good sir. 
Rolled the fender's turned out great not bad for ten buck's..
lmao, reminded me of a previous post of myne:
...so i didnt do it ..haha
slideshow240
Member
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- slammed 22v wagon
i used a rubber hammer and it worked great.....just use precise hits/swings lol
or cut the lip off that you're flattening
not that hard
or cut the lip off that you're flattening
not that hard
roy obanion
Member
- :
- 02 p5, 95 miata
Yessir. I wrapped a t-ball bat in a towel with duct tape and "rolled" them. I thought it worked pretty well but then all the paint started to crack and rust when winter came around. And I used a heat gun. Then I rolled them with a fender roller and heat gun last year. I still highly recommend a proper fender roller and heat gun and lots of patience. But if they turned out great for you then kudos, good sir.
Eh, time will tell...
I didn't do it that way, but I saw a few pretty bad attempts at it. I didn't have to roll my Protege. Rust took care of that a long time ago.
Ordered from jdm sam since he's a sponsor on our local forum. Damn. Could have saved $40.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
is the mishimoto thicker then stock? I want to get an ugraded rad, but it cant be much thicker then OEM, since my turbos so huge lol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Not sure how much thicker it is than stock.
EDIT
Here is the specs
Overall Size: 27.5" x 17.07" x 1.92"
Core Size: 26.87" x 13"
Rows: 2
Inlet: 1.10"
Outlet: 1.10"
Core Thickness: 1.42"
Tank Wall Thickness: .08"
Fill Neck: 1.22"
Drain Plug Thread Size: M12 x 1.5
Drain Plug Thread Length: .47"
Not sure how much thicker it is than stock.
EDIT
Here is the specs
Overall Size: 27.5" x 17.07" x 1.92"
Core Size: 26.87" x 13"
Rows: 2
Inlet: 1.10"
Outlet: 1.10"
Core Thickness: 1.42"
Tank Wall Thickness: .08"
Fill Neck: 1.22"
Drain Plug Thread Size: M12 x 1.5
Drain Plug Thread Length: .47"
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Hit 390 with 1/4 tank left..........another 30-31mpg tank in sportauto, woohoo!
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
^^^Sorry to hear man and you and all others involved are ok?
Not sure about mine...need to sit down tonight with the wife and talk things out/over. At 147K right now and looking at putting over 2K into her to fix the rust, do some preventitive maintenance and fix some wear items. I haven't actually taken her to a shop yet but got a quote of $1500 minimum for the work (some of what I know needs to be done (timing belt, etc) and some for what I'm not sure of (rear main seal). So at this point I'm looking at over 2K and hoping they find nothing else wrong when they get into it and that the rust will be 'cured' for a bit or I'm contemplating a rebuilt engine. From what I can find (and that's not much) they are going for around 2K ready to go in...add labor + rust repairs and I'm still out quite a bit of money but have a basically new engine that should be trouble free (at least under warranty for a couple of years) and hoping the rust will be 'cured'. Or do I *gasp* part her out and trade her in. Def. not at the top of my list but if that's what seems like the logical thing to do....
Not sure about mine...need to sit down tonight with the wife and talk things out/over. At 147K right now and looking at putting over 2K into her to fix the rust, do some preventitive maintenance and fix some wear items. I haven't actually taken her to a shop yet but got a quote of $1500 minimum for the work (some of what I know needs to be done (timing belt, etc) and some for what I'm not sure of (rear main seal). So at this point I'm looking at over 2K and hoping they find nothing else wrong when they get into it and that the rust will be 'cured' for a bit or I'm contemplating a rebuilt engine. From what I can find (and that's not much) they are going for around 2K ready to go in...add labor + rust repairs and I'm still out quite a bit of money but have a basically new engine that should be trouble free (at least under warranty for a couple of years) and hoping the rust will be 'cured'. Or do I *gasp* part her out and trade her in. Def. not at the top of my list but if that's what seems like the logical thing to do....
CheeseHelmet
Member
Fix whatever needs to be fixed on the engine and use it till the body rots away
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
I like your reasoning but as soon as a hole develops the car will not pass inspection.
$2395 for a reman. engine + a $400 core with a 3yr warranty but I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals
$1650 for a used engine (33K) with no core and a 90 day warranty and I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals
I did have one guy offer to rebuild my engine for $1800...this would involve me getting the engine out and prepped for pick-up, shipped to him in TX and then shipped back to me. I'd only be without a car for two weeks. lol Or a rebuilt one from the same guy would be $2120, no core as he said he has no use for Mazda engines?
$2395 for a reman. engine + a $400 core with a 3yr warranty but I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals
$1650 for a used engine (33K) with no core and a 90 day warranty and I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals
I did have one guy offer to rebuild my engine for $1800...this would involve me getting the engine out and prepped for pick-up, shipped to him in TX and then shipped back to me. I'd only be without a car for two weeks. lol Or a rebuilt one from the same guy would be $2120, no core as he said he has no use for Mazda engines?
Got my Mazda3 Wheels on!! w 2007 Mini Cooper S Runflat/ Sticky 205/45/17 Tires !
Here she is over time: ( i tried to keep the same angle)
when i got her w the snows on
W the stocks
W the drop
W the drop/ wheels :]
..Next is to put on the white powder coating i bought / after sandblasting em ;]
Here she is over time: ( i tried to keep the same angle)
when i got her w the snows on
W the stocks
W the drop
W the drop/ wheels :]
..Next is to put on the white powder coating i bought / after sandblasting em ;]
Last edited:
95blkprobe
Member
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- 95 Blk Probe/ 02 Blk Mica P5
tightened a leaky oil line and found out why it was idling so rough, one nut backed completely out and off the throttle body as two bolts were backed out half way, so i wrenched them down pretty damn good and will check to see how they hold up. almost 500 miles on the built motor now
