What have you done to your P5 today?

Ok so today I changed out the outer tie rod on the passenger side since the old one looked like someone molested it.

Thought that was the source of my clunk just because of how bad the old one looked but I'm still getting the god forsaken clunk. It just won't end. Now I just can't wait till class is out so that I can tear into that front passenger area and figure it out.

So far I have eliminated the following:

Sway bar bushings: Checked more than a couple times, they seem perfectly fine.

Strut itself: Just switched to Tokico Blues.

Endlinks: seem fine but I have a new set of AWR's waiting anyway.

Tie rod: because I changed it today.

So what I'm thinking is that it IS the strut mount bushing or the strut mount itself. Once I have time to, I'm going to take the strut out and check it all out. Hopefully I won't have to cut the endlink off but who knows. I just want this damn clunk gone so that I can have piece of mind lol

i had the "clunk" too! my mechanic said it was the strut bushing! so you are right on! he did tell me tho that the clunk wont hurt anything, it would just get louder and be annoying. hope that helps!

--jeremy
 
Thanks man I'm glad to know that that's prolly the problem. I already bought the bushing so as soon as I have a chance, that SOB is getting changed out. Even better to know that it won't hurt anything.
 


thats what i did to mine today :( no i dont have upgraded cams, the idle just sounds like s*** for no reason

found out that one of the holes on the precat is stripped so there isnt a good seal between the cat. and the j pipe so it makes the sound you hear in the video

options, get a new cat. converter or get a header
header is cheaper but i cant pass emmissions, cat is ridiculusly expensive from the dealer but thats prob what im going to have to get
 
s***, 1600? holy hell lol
yea idk i cant even drive it right now cuz my idle is so ****** up, i guess cuz none of the exhaust is even getting to the 2nd O2 sensor and just going out of that gap
im prob goin to go on ebay and get the cheapest header i can find on there

i really dont need a nice header, i just need something that works until i get all my turbo stuff together
 
yea more then a header for sure

i see you have an obx header in your mod list

did it make your car alot louder? and did you have any neg. effects?
because i have an sls catless mid pipe and megan racing CBE
its preeeety loud already so i dont want to get pulled over for being to loud or anything
 
it will be extremely loud with that catless pipe and the megan exhaust.

my car is loud, but not to loud, and thats due to the racing beat exhaust.
 


thats what i did to mine today :( no i dont have upgraded cams, the idle just sounds like s*** for no reason

found out that one of the holes on the precat is stripped so there isnt a good seal between the cat. and the j pipe so it makes the sound you hear in the video

options, get a new cat. converter or get a header
header is cheaper but i cant pass emmissions, cat is ridiculusly expensive from the dealer but thats prob what im going to have to get

That must be one of those rare John Deere Edition Protege 5's.
 
lol yea i kinda does sound like that
ill be getting it fixed soon i hope

you think if i put the stock mid pipe back in it'll quiet down back to what it is right now?
ill prob do that if its too loud
 
today i washed her and hit the headlights with some rubbing compound to clear them up and used some TW Ice polish. The poor yellow paint :( Its gotten so dull over the years due to Mazda's bad mix for the color but the Ice did help brighten it a bit :D
 
i really want some volk TE37...

but they are 683 a piece =( thats almost 3k for new wheels and tires

oh well. performance first i guess. Ive started a fund seperating my car money, from my detailing product money, from money i need to start saving. this will force me to save up for mods, rather than blow all my money on stuff when ever i get my hands on some cash.
 
So I couldn't wait to put in the new strut mount bushing so I did it earlier and now I go to work. I'll tell you if it solved my clunk later
 
Did the Medieval recall PS pulley swap, changed oil/filter, swapped out burnt drv side dim & got a full belly o fuel in her. Tire rotation & wash didn't happen, opted for swimming in between the other s***.
 
Well knock on wood but I believe that my clunk is finally solved. Turns out it actually was the strut mount bushing. That little plastic piece of s*** is what's been making me angry for the last 10 months lol.
 
I think I need a new wheel bearing on the front left, makes a horrible noise when driving but I checked and didn't break another endlink and the shock isn't leaking oil and doesn't feel mushy so I don't think its blown. Guess I'll have to jack it up tomorrow and see what I can figure out
 
Are these cars supposed to retain fuel pressure inside the fuel rail indefinitely? I ask because even though my fuel pressure gauge on my fuel rail says I meet all the requirements mentioned in the FSM. I have noticed that if I don't drive my car for a while, say over night, that when I come out the next day there is no pressure in the rail. I just want to know if this is normal or not because I'm trying to to determine if I have any small leaks. When the car is running, the rail holds a constant 35 psi and when I turn the car off it goes up to roughly 40 psi where it stays for a while (much longer than 5 minutes as stated by the FSM) but ultimately, over several hours, it slowly goes down and down. Indicative of a fuel leak or just normal?
 
Selling my R/C's cause i'm needing stopping power. Brakes started squealing on me over the weekend.
 
That's normal. That's also the reason for the 2-ish (iirc) second priming pulse from the fuel pump when you turn the key to 'on'
 
That's normal. That's also the reason for the 2-ish (iirc) second priming pulse from the fuel pump when you turn the key to 'on'
Okay, so it is perfectly normal to have zero fuel rail pressure after like a day of sitting. I've just been trying to figure this CEL out because it's indicative of a fuel leak (or vacuum leak) but I can't seem to find one. I did the whole 5 minute fuel line leak test thing two (essentially just running the fuel pump continuously while the car is off) and couldn't find anything. Man, it sure was weird to hear the pump going like that with the car off, LOL.

EDIT: Oh yeah, if I justr turn the key to the "on" position I don't get any pressure change - it'll just stay at zero until I actually start the car.
 

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