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- Mazdaspeed Protege
Ouch sorry to hear!
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
That stinks! Sorry man.
Today I decided to try and install my down pipe I got a few weeks ago . It was a pain trying to unbolt every single bolt I ended breaking 4 bots from the exhaust side then I found out the previous owner didn't install the wastegate actuator right cuz the flap was so loose no wonder I wasn't boosting no more than 4-5 lbs of boost hopefully that will take care of the leak
Replaced a leaking VC gasket over the weekend and tried to get a better idea of the knock/rattle coming from the engine. Oil consumption has grown to be quite troublesome and the oil light came on while I was out getting lunch a few weeks back. Ever since, I've had the slightest knock/rattle coming from the engine. Only happens at 3000-3500 RPM at the slightest throttle input; anything more than say 5% throttle and it goes away. Checked the valve lash, all in spec, could be rod knock, could be something else. Either way, prepping for a rebuild, she's had a good run.
Timely discussion around turbo rebuilds btw, I'm currently on the fence on whether I buy a GT2860RS or a new CHRA for the 2554R. I'll look into Turbo Lab.
Timely discussion around turbo rebuilds btw, I'm currently on the fence on whether I buy a GT2860RS or a new CHRA for the 2554R. I'll look into Turbo Lab.
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hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Welcome to the club, I say find the lowest mileage motor you can or a used forged engine. Building a new one will cost as much as the car is worth.
On a side note, I finally got the motor pulled out of 1345 and the trans separated. Need to replace the friction plate on the Fidanza flywheel, install the clutch and swap the trans onto the forged motor, then I need to replace the axles and buy a rear motor mount and drop it in. Of course the car needs a turbo manifold too..
Planning on running a Pope manifold?
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I have a pope DP but the way the manifold is cast it looks like a nightmare to install, barely any room at all to get a wrench in there. Ideally would like to find a steedspeed
its not that bad, but you would have to modify an alen wrench to get between the middle lower runners and just give it a crack at a time. there are different length bolts that come with it but no instructions, so you have to figure out which ones would fit the best. short in the middle, longer in the outside. i ended up using the two studs and some factory bolts as well as some of the hex ones he provided. definites took some fiddling but it fits right and does whats it is supposed to. use lock washers is all i can say cause you will never get the right torque on them. just as tight as you can with an allen wrench i guess heh.
just a reminder to cut off the loop of the ac bracket. the downpipe will get bunged up on that and if you forget to remove it, will suddenly go CRACK BANG when your trying to install the manfiold and make you s*** your pants.. which is what ive heard.....
just a reminder to cut off the loop of the ac bracket. the downpipe will get bunged up on that and if you forget to remove it, will suddenly go CRACK BANG when your trying to install the manfiold and make you s*** your pants.. which is what ive heard.....
So.. I have a local friend who has a 626 motor with all new timing components and a 626 intake and a probe transmission. I got a great deal on it.. I just gotta go pick it up.
I was told I need to switch over my main bearing support plate though. I'm sure I'll figure it out by comparing them.. but I'm not 100% where this is. Its my understanding the transmission has to come off to get it. I'm considering doing the bearings on this new motor too.. I am curious if I can flip it over, get the oil pan off and do these bearings with the head still on.. IDK, but if its possible that's the plan..
I'm planning on getting the block out of the car and forging that one.. this way, my forged will be the "factory" motor, and I can take my time building it. I'm guessing it will take a year or so.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
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- 2003 MSP
Your main bearing support plate is between the oil pan and engine block. There are two bolts in the support plate that are covered by the bell housing of the transmission. You can do the bearings if you want. Get some ITM bearings. Also do the rear main seal and the oil pump. You can leave everything else intact but in order to pull the crank out a little bit and replace your bearings you need to redo those seals. I am me on Facebook if you have any questions
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Thanks for posting that pic on FB Chris.. I understand how that plate sits in there now.. This shouldn't be too bad.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
To avoid downtime and get the car DONE I think I'm going to get a replacement CHRA through Garrett's ball-bearing exchange program. It'll be right and done with. It's all I've got to have the car on the road other than two tires, but that's not a big deal.
I have a modified AWR pan and have a -10AN fitting at the rear of the pan with my drain exiting near the top of the pan, but I believe I'm going to use the OEM MBSP drain once the new -10AN fittings and line arrive to make it. I haven't had an OEM return in years!
Actually, there is one thing that I've got to look into- a coolant leak that suddenly started the other day while the engine was idling. Its from the rear of the engine, so either the OEM cooler or supply lines to it I believe, but haven't been able to lift the car to look. I also never realized how little ground clearance I really have and why I've destroyed two wideband sensors and hit my Pope downpipe. I'd say someone in the area of 4-4.5" at MOST.
I have a modified AWR pan and have a -10AN fitting at the rear of the pan with my drain exiting near the top of the pan, but I believe I'm going to use the OEM MBSP drain once the new -10AN fittings and line arrive to make it. I haven't had an OEM return in years!
Actually, there is one thing that I've got to look into- a coolant leak that suddenly started the other day while the engine was idling. Its from the rear of the engine, so either the OEM cooler or supply lines to it I believe, but haven't been able to lift the car to look. I also never realized how little ground clearance I really have and why I've destroyed two wideband sensors and hit my Pope downpipe. I'd say someone in the area of 4-4.5" at MOST.
too low for my roads lool. speedbumps higher than that in my neighborhood.
I need to get under mind soon and figure out all the little rattles she has. but i might pick up a second trunk lid this week and go the wingless route. might look a little funny on yellow. but at least with two trunks i can go either or depending how i feel that week ha.
refinishing my second set of rims will be underway soon and ill have tires for those. then the wife will get my brown Rays on her Black ESGT. i had the extra p5 bumper from the silver car and the black cars side skirts so those will get painted up and ill dress her car up all nice. too bad i wasnt able to score a rear splitter when i picked up the wheels. car might look funny with side skirts and p5 bumper without it heh. i guess there is always a home depot lip option.
she also isnt lowered, so 215/45/17 will be pretty high, but no worse than her big ass winter tires.
if i get the trunk lid, ill prob do the front splitter at the same time. it is still silver and really doesnt need any prep. i can just dump yellow on it and it will be like nothing happened heh. doesnt really matter how nice the car looks if it sounds like a peice of s*** though =(
I need to get under mind soon and figure out all the little rattles she has. but i might pick up a second trunk lid this week and go the wingless route. might look a little funny on yellow. but at least with two trunks i can go either or depending how i feel that week ha.
refinishing my second set of rims will be underway soon and ill have tires for those. then the wife will get my brown Rays on her Black ESGT. i had the extra p5 bumper from the silver car and the black cars side skirts so those will get painted up and ill dress her car up all nice. too bad i wasnt able to score a rear splitter when i picked up the wheels. car might look funny with side skirts and p5 bumper without it heh. i guess there is always a home depot lip option.
she also isnt lowered, so 215/45/17 will be pretty high, but no worse than her big ass winter tires.
if i get the trunk lid, ill prob do the front splitter at the same time. it is still silver and really doesnt need any prep. i can just dump yellow on it and it will be like nothing happened heh. doesnt really matter how nice the car looks if it sounds like a peice of s*** though =(
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Bought new MSP axles from Napa, haven't measured them yet to verify they are the true 24mm shafts but they are listed as 'manual trans, with ABS, with MSP2 suspension' and there was only one set available in their computer for the whole region so I am hoping they are correct. I was given a set of used MSP axles that were purchased on the forum and the boots were split on each axle. Hopefully this week will have time to install the axles, drop the motor back in and get the ZE mani installed. Still need to buy a rear MM and a new turbo mani.
Yeah... going to install a plug and relocate that...
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Heated O2 sensors should always be installed at halfway up the pipe or higher anyways, to avoid moisture collecting in it after the car is turned off and ultimately premature failure.
thepope540
Member
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- 2003.5 Yellow Speed - Sold, Spicy - Sold, #639 Black Mica
That's why I don't include a bung in the first place. The downpipe isn't a good place for it.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
While I know the recommended angle at which the sensor should be placed, and why, Auto Meter recommends the following concerning placement in the exhaust:
