What have you done to your MSP today?

My tensioner is tip-top with less than 400 miles on it and I found the spring for $5 on amazon. Now its just a prime order away from being on the car.
 
My suspension is still making noises. Mostly on uneven ground at low speed, like through a bad neighborhood with bad pavement. It sounds like worn out bushings or something. Its no where near as loud as the clunk. I have replaced both lower control arms/bushings/ball joint. I'm not really sure what it is. Finding noises is a b****. I am wondering if its the shock/strut mount.. or maybe the tie rods? Any ideas/similar situations?
 
Endlinks in the back? Bushings in the back? Possibke strut mounts but check the easier to get to stuff for play.
 
tonight i pull out turbo mani assembly. i forgot to put the coolant banjo bolt thingy on. had everything on ready to fire it up, then look down to see empty bolt hole. fail....
 
Endlinks in the back? Bushings in the back? Possibke strut mounts but check the easier to get to stuff for play.

It's probably the strut mounts, they make a popping kind of sound over bumps

I've replaced:

Sway bar brackets (clunk fix/relocation)
Rear end links
Front control arms (bushings/ball joints)

Planning:
Megan rear trailing arms (1st)
Megan rear control arms (at some point)
Lowering springs

I'm getting these sounds on all 4 corners, but a little more in the front. That's why i was thinking it might be the mounts. I need to get lowering springs so I have a reason to go in there.. I remember my Tercel doing wonky s*** like this before I replaced my shocks/struts/mounts/springs.
 
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My suspension is still making noises. Mostly on uneven ground at low speed, like through a bad neighborhood with bad pavement. It sounds like worn out bushings or something. Its no where near as loud as the clunk. I have replaced both lower control arms/bushings/ball joint. I'm not really sure what it is. Finding noises is a b****. I am wondering if its the shock/strut mount.. or maybe the tie rods? Any ideas/similar situations?

Front end links okay? Disconnect your end links and drive over terrain you described. Make sure they're secured away as well as the bar. That will isolate them.Also turn the wheel out of the way and yank back and forth on the end link. Just a couple of ways to help identify suspension noises. Also, look for witness marks where two components are contacting that shouldn't be. You should be able to have someone bounce each corner of the car to help isolate noises while you're listening and/or placing your hand on components to identify excessive play. Spraying one component at a time with penetrating oil will also help find suspension noises. Just some ways that may help you identify the noise.
 
I'll check them. I gotta get under there. Last time I was under the car I didn't see any witness marks, but I'll double check. Gut instinct is the shock mounts, but I might be wrong. Endlinks would be cheaper, but it wouldn't explain the noises coming from the back (its not the sway bar) Maybe its a combination of more than 1 thing.
 
Noted. Its more in the front though. I did just replace the rear motor mount, so I am wondering if the problem is only manifesting now that things are stiffer...
 
sucks chasing down stuff like that. you'll eventually find it and it'll be real stupid lol.
 
got the car back from having my haltech installed.

335whp 350tq on the mustang dyno for the first go around, will be heading back after a few days of driving to have the tune cleaned up so I will be getting a more of it too.

Best part for me is clean stock exhaust look and sound, just deleted both cats.
 
got the car back from having my haltech installed.

335whp 350tq on the mustang dyno for the first go around, will be heading back after a few days of driving to have the tune cleaned up so I will be getting a more of it too.

Best part for me is clean stock exhaust look and sound, just deleted both cats.
Did you have it installed as a piggy back or stand alone?

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
 
So I just installed a Ralco Rz short shifter (twm replica) but the stock msp knob does not seem to have long enough threading on the inside to thread into the shifter rod. For now I am using another aftermarket shift knob that does have a long enough thread reach but I would really like to go back to using the stock msp knob. Any ideas to solve an issue like this one?
 
What does clean stock exhaust and sound mean. Did you make new pipe and reuse axleback? Or got a cutout ect?

I'm thinking of just replacing the pipes with 3" to the msp axle back so I can finally use my pope dp. Nothing special. Just mild steel.
 
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