What have you done to your MSP today?

I've been looking for a vacuum leak all day. I have about 10 psi vacuum where I used too have over 20 psi. I have changed all my vacuum hoses and I tightened the bolts on my IC. I can here it but I can't get the smoke to revel the leak. Help!

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I'm going to remove the horrible M2 springs from the new P5 and install my old Racing Beat springs from the MSP. The ride is awful and it handles about as well, too. Thinking while the MSP is parked, seeing as how the P5's tires are treadles, I'll swap wheels and tires out. There is no way I'll be able to do that with the M2 springs, though. It sits way too low in the front. The rear would be okay, but no way for the front. I thought about swapping out the front struts/spring assemblies, but if I start cannibalizing the MSP this early, it won't be good for it. I'll "get around to" putting the parts back on.
 
That's where I'm at, trying to resist cannibalizing all my parts off of 1345 while it is down. I was gonna swap the BBSs and the springs but it's not worth it. I do have about 1/3 of the $2500 for my motor build saved up so far, so it's going to happen eventually!
 
Fresh rear calipers, pads and stainless lines to replace both seized rear calipers. My shorty sledge got quite the workout separating the caliper and rotor.

It's nice to coast again.
 
Hey guys.. So I got most of the intake stuff off last night.. I am really taking my time here. The weather is terrible, so I am just driving the Tercel and saving gas. lol

When I took off the fuel rail, I was kind of surprised how easily the injectors came out of the intake. they literally just came out. almost none to no resistance at all. The injectors look fine.. just curious if thats normal.

I am getting ready to do the whole VTCS delete, and port the intake lightly to smooth it. I read 25 pages spanning from 2004-current on the VTSC removal. There was a lot of "noobs" complaining about idling issues/vac leaks. I would be more concerned, but we are talking about people who wern't even removing the bracket to the engine block and then complained the intake wouldn't come off. Not the type of people I trust did the rest of the job right.. you know? lmao.

So I have the injector -> intake tightness question..

But my other question is related to thermal spacers for the TB and IM.. are people using TWO paper gaskets with these? Or just using black gasket maker on both sides of the spacers? Or only 1 gasket? If i need a 2nd IM and TB gasket I'd like to know sooner than later. (I have a new metal gasket also, for between the upper and lower IM before anyone recommends getting one of those.. I already have it.)
 
I Just beat a Mustang from the line! I'm a mixture between surprised and proud. Lol. Didn't think the msp had it in her. I think it was between a 96-03, not sure if it was a gt or not. It had 4 passengers though so it worked in my benefit. Nevertheless, I'm still proud.

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Hey guys.. So I got most of the intake stuff off last night.. I am really taking my time here. The weather is terrible, so I am just driving the Tercel and saving gas. lol

When I took off the fuel rail, I was kind of surprised how easily the injectors came out of the intake. they literally just came out. almost none to no resistance at all. The injectors look fine.. just curious if thats normal.

I am getting ready to do the whole VTCS delete, and port the intake lightly to smooth it. I read 25 pages spanning from 2004-current on the VTSC removal. There was a lot of "noobs" complaining about idling issues/vac leaks. I would be more concerned, but we are talking about people who wern't even removing the bracket to the engine block and then complained the intake wouldn't come off. Not the type of people I trust did the rest of the job right.. you know? lmao.

So I have the injector -> intake tightness question..

But my other question is related to thermal spacers for the TB and IM.. are people using TWO paper gaskets with these? Or just using black gasket maker on both sides of the spacers? Or only 1 gasket? If i need a 2nd IM and TB gasket I'd like to know sooner than later. (I have a new metal gasket also, for between the upper and lower IM before anyone recommends getting one of those.. I already have it.)
Yes the injectors just come right out. Always remove your fuel pump relay and turn the engine over remove the fuel cap to release system pressure.

For the spacer I would use one gasket between the intake and head, and gasket marker on the spacer to intake side.

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There isn't much pressure on the protege fuel system, usually by the time you get the injectors out the system has bled the pressure off anyway. And considering you don't have to remove the injectors from the rail, bleeding the system is unnecessary. (Removing the fuel cap DOES NOT relieve system pressure!) Yes you MUST use TWO (felpro) paper gaskets, one for each side of the spacer. Don't waste your time with gasket maker if you ever want/have to remove the intake again. It is normal for the injectors to pull out, you should replace the seals though with the round '626' style that seal better to the IM.
 
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There isn't much pressure on the protege fuel system, usually by the time you get the injectors out the system has bled the pressure off anyway. And considering you don't have to remove the injectors from the rail, bleeding the system is completely unnecessary. Yes you MUST use TWO (felpro) paper gaskets, one for each side of the spacer. Don't waste your time with gasket maker if you ever want/have to remove the intake again. It is normal for the injectors to pull out, you should replace the seals though with the round '626' style that seal better to the IM.
It's funny you say you never been sprayed because the only reason I wrote what I wrote was because I just got sprayed doing my gaskets looking for my vacuum leak

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Do you have a pn for the 626 seals? I noticed the protege ones were groved on the sides and I couldn't imagine them sealing amazing.
Never had problem with being sprayed but the cat would have been sitting overnight when I removed the fuel rail.

I should get to pulling the msp engine soon. Get it torn down and assess what needs doing. Open the trans prepare for mfactory ect.

Was looking at buying bigwoofers car with a friend of mine but the dude who owns it now seems sketch...maybe too much effort to get a gemini hood heh

If anyone was interested in the custom audio stuff it has I might grab it
 
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I dont know where people got that the 626 seals are any different. They were the exact same part number at my parts stores as the protege seals.
 
There isn't much pressure on the protege fuel system, usually by the time you get the injectors out the system has bled the pressure off anyway. And considering you don't have to remove the injectors from the rail, bleeding the system is unnecessary. (Removing the fuel cap DOES NOT relieve system pressure!) Yes you MUST use TWO (felpro) paper gaskets, one for each side of the spacer. Don't waste your time with gasket maker if you ever want/have to remove the intake again. It is normal for the injectors to pull out, you should replace the seals though with the round '626' style that seal better to the IM.

I didn't think I needed to bleed anything (and I didn't). I didn't removed them from the fuel rail and I really didn't disconnect anything, I just moved the whole thing off to the side where the battery usually is. Seems fine.. I was only concerned with the seal when I put them back.

10-4 on two gaskets.. half assing the gaskets is probably why so many people have complained about vacuum leaks after doing this mod (VTCS delete)

I'd also love to get a part number on those 626 seals.. I will check Rock Auto on my own now.. maybe I'll get lucky. (rare)
 
So I went ahead and got on Rockauto and ordered

2x lower intake gaskets (the updated ones)
2x TB gaskets
2x Input shaft seals (I hope I bought the right seals.. lol) [NATIONAL 222430]
1 Exedy clutch slave cylinder (I'm doing the clutch anyway, and this was $15 - I'm just being pre-emptive, like usual)
1 - copper gasket coating

While I am waiting, this EGR pipe is getting the full treatment cleaning.. I am porting the manifold, and since I'm waiting another week for all this crap, I'll probably start cleaning up the exterior of the manifold.. casting marks, etc.. don't wanna spend $ on powdercoat, so I will likely just do a coat of silver metallic or black paint. (I know..)

Gonna do this rear motor mount. I'm so happy I can actually see all those bolts now and feel 1000 times more confident. OEM mount, but I'll fill it with clear silicone or if someone else has a better idea before I do it, I'll do that. lol

Next week I'm getting those Megan trailing arms..

Also stage 2 of the front lip (body filler stage) is also happening. (I never showed stage 1 lol) I think this is gonna work.. the fiberglass set up nicely. I'm happy so far.. Pics soon
 
So I went ahead and got on Rockauto and ordered

2x lower intake gaskets (the updated ones)
2x TB gaskets
2x Input shaft seals (I hope I bought the right seals.. lol) [NATIONAL 222430]
1 Exedy clutch slave cylinder (I'm doing the clutch anyway, and this was $15 - I'm just being pre-emptive, like usual)
1 - copper gasket coating

While I am waiting, this EGR pipe is getting the full treatment cleaning.. I am porting the manifold, and since I'm waiting another week for all this crap, I'll probably start cleaning up the exterior of the manifold.. casting marks, etc.. don't wanna spend $ on powdercoat, so I will likely just do a coat of silver metallic or black paint. (I know..)

Gonna do this rear motor mount. I'm so happy I can actually see all those bolts now and feel 1000 times more confident. OEM mount, but I'll fill it with clear silicone or if someone else has a better idea before I do it, I'll do that. lol

Next week I'm getting those Megan trailing arms..

Also stage 2 of the front lip (body filler stage) is also happening. (I never showed stage 1 lol) I think this is gonna work.. the fiberglass set up nicely. I'm happy so far.. Pics soon
Fill the rear mount with 3M windows weld. It is polyurethane you really love the feel of the mounts. Also get yourself a stainless steel braided clutch line.

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RHs and RBs on the P5.

Its so slow... hahaha but it does drive much, much better now. Needs a front, left wheel bearing.

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blehs.. i really want RH's Back =( wanna get some nice classy oem wheels for the p5. try to get away from the aftermarketness of my rays.
 
My freshly built (by someone else) 377 mile forged engine needs a timing belt. The belt walked off the cams, destroyed the timing covers, and killed itself. I heard some rubbing when I last drove it a couple weeks ago but couldn't pinpoint the sound when I pulled over so I went on home... I have to dig deeper into into it to figure out what went wrong, but I don't have time to mess with it right now.
 

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