What have you done to your MSP today?

I put my new tube beading tool to work and beaded all my intercooler piping. The next job is to get the disco potato clocked properly and solve the misaligned wastegate actuator problem.
 
Used the great weather to tear down spare engine from 2566. I've got a lot of parts to clean up and decide what to do with.
343221f62307650d16f31c9d91da252f.jpg
 
I wish canada had production numbers...might have to paint a p5 valve cover soon. Looks sharp.
 
for the uneducated... me... whats the average cost for light forged engine build? id only be doing the bottom end and cleaning up the top. new bearings, rods, pistons and whatever is required for all that on a low milage not so beat up engine.

was thinking of the speed circuit block, but what does that price actually get you? a new engine shipped to your door? or do you have to add all the crap you want on, and the price is just to put it all together?

300hp from the msp would be plenty.. really i just wanna fix it. maybe turn the boost up some and have it last.
 
Valk said:
for the uneducated... me... whats the average cost for light forged engine build? id only be doing the bottom end and cleaning up the top. new bearings, rods, pistons and whatever is required for all that on a low milage not so beat up engine.

was thinking of the speed circuit block, but what does that price actually get you? a new engine shipped to your door? or do you have to add all the crap you want on, and the price is just to put it all together?

300hp from the msp would be plenty.. really i just wanna fix it. maybe turn the boost up some and have it last.
Click to expand...
I would saw find a good machine shop. I paid 1k in forged rods, positions try metal bearings and arp hardware. Then 800 in bottom end work this included balancing the whole assembly polishing the crank line bore and honing the cylinder 2 over for some damage when the engine went etc etc.
I also paid 800 for the head work. Port and polish and comp valve job.
The guy was an old school machinist with 35 years experience. He told me the thin that destroys engine prematurely is improper clearances.
 
so maybe the speedcircuit isnt such a bad way to go. i i know by the time i have all the guts on my desk its gonna be 2k.. then i still have to tear it appart, drop it off at a machinist and hope he knows what he's doing heh. or for $3500 i can just get a engine to drop in my car..
 
Valk said:
so maybe the speedcircuit isnt such a bad way to go. i i know by the time i have all the guts on my desk its gonna be 2k.. then i still have to tear it appart, drop it off at a machinist and hope he knows what he's doing heh. or for $3500 i can just get a engine to drop in my car..
Click to expand...
Plus shipping or is that total.
 
id guestimate a minimum of $300 to ship and engine block.

plus, id only want a build bottom end. though.. my cams look a little worn i guess.
 
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The same guy here in calgary that did Maxx Mazda's engine is quoting mine right now. Standard pricing includes full bottom end machine package $1050. Full stock head recondition $445. Plus parts. I hope to have a quote back by the end of next week. He was a little slower than I'd have liked but they're really busy with industrial stuff too. A guy I work with has a ~450HP all motor mustang that has all his machine work done there. Says they're one of the only two shops in calgary that he'd trust doing any crank work.
 
it wont be for a year or two but the car isnt on the road so no hurry.. I think mark had his motor build here by 5252 but if i had to send it to calgary to get done properly that isnt really so bad.. curious what you end up with. though i guess it would be cheaper to get him to source a block than me sending him one.
 
Valk said:
it wont be for a year or two but the car isnt on the road so no hurry.. I think mark had his motor build here by 5252 but if i had to send it to calgary to get done properly that isnt really so bad.. curious what you end up with. though i guess it would be cheaper to get him to source a block than me sending him one.
Click to expand...
Say he does your engine remember that he will need the clutch you are going to install for balancing.
 
Spent the entire day yesterday replacing the cracked to s*** Ebay 'IcantbelieveIwasted200bucks' turbo manifold, broken A/C slim fan and installing a Pope downpipe on my friend's Titanium #1572. The pope is a nice piece but the fitment is not perfect, and could not find any info for installing it. Installed the thermostat spacer and cut the tab for the bracket and it fits alright but the holes on the flange don't line up with the gasket/turbo outlet. A piece this expensive should NOT require any modification to install, was very frustrating to say the least. Was able to reinstall the stock studs and drill out one of the holes slightly, used one of the supplied allen bolts/spacers on the top right most bolt hole and the factory hardware for the rest of it. And the midpipe bolts were another story altogether, the flex section is way too large and it was damn near impossible to bolt to the stock midpipe. Aftermarket exhausts probably fit much easier but we had to bolt it to the stock pipe.


Got it done late last night and went for a drive and it started spiking 12-13 lbs! No boost controller just stock WG pressure, really puzzled as to why it's running such high boost. Guess he has to purchase a new wastegate for the stock turbo. It ran 7psi before the DP, car hits fuel cut like crazy and stutters some so he needs an AFC now but it pulls hard when it spikes. Now i'm just praying he doesn't blow it up before we can get the AFC installed.
 
hmmm i haven't seen that mentioned really... ill keep an eye out when i install the downpipe i suppose. funny thing for me was trying to install the thermostat spacer lol.. maybe i need a specific brand of thermostat but i just had a b**** of a time trying to get it in without falling out ect. ended up siliconing it to the spacer and finally installing to the block heh.

I still have a few minor issues with the car. that stumble hasn't got better approaching 2krpm and i still dont have heat ha. car temp doesnt go up but there must be a badass bubble in the heatercore.ill have to get the ac filled soon as its getting warmer.

long weekend coming up so i might take the extra opportunity to paint the rear bumper. or start fishing msp turbo setup.

obviously im not really talking about my msp these days, but there are so many msp parts swapped over it pretty much is one as soon as the turbo goes over heh. I might buy a second msp when it comes time to build my motor and build the best of the two. id hate to recycle an msp shell, but canadian msps dont have production numbers, so i guess as long as its a black one it would be ok.. lol
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Spent the entire day yesterday replacing the cracked to s*** Ebay 'IcantbelieveIwasted200bucks' turbo manifold, broken A/C slim fan and installing a Pope downpipe on my friend's Titanium #1572. The pope is a nice piece but the fitment is not perfect, and could not find any info for installing it. Installed the thermostat spacer and cut the tab for the bracket and it fits alright but the holes on the flange don't line up with the gasket/turbo outlet. A piece this expensive should NOT require any modification to install, was very frustrating to say the least. Was able to reinstall the stock studs and drill out one of the holes slightly, used one of the supplied allen bolts/spacers on the top right most bolt hole and the factory hardware for the rest of it. And the midpipe bolts were another story altogether, the flex section is way too large and it was damn near impossible to bolt to the stock midpipe. Aftermarket exhausts probably fit much easier but we had to bolt it to the stock pipe.


Got it done late last night and went for a drive and it started spiking 12-13 lbs! No boost controller just stock WG pressure, really puzzled as to why it's running such high boost. Guess he has to purchase a new wastegate for the stock turbo. It ran 7psi before the DP, car hits fuel cut like crazy and stutters some so he needs an AFC now but it pulls hard when it spikes. Now i'm just praying he doesn't blow it up before we can get the AFC installed.
Click to expand...
The Pope do does for nicely to a 3" exhaust and I remember he told me it would be difficult to a stock. Glad you got it. I had boost spikes because of so much flow. Definitely let him know and give feed back. I to the pretension off the waste gate and also tapped my turbo like the big boys for a better signal for the actuator. my next thing is a piggyback.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Spent the entire day yesterday replacing the cracked to s*** Ebay 'IcantbelieveIwasted200bucks' turbo manifold, broken A/C slim fan and installing a Pope downpipe on my friend's Titanium #1572. The pope is a nice piece but the fitment is not perfect, and could not find any info for installing it. Installed the thermostat spacer and cut the tab for the bracket and it fits alright but the holes on the flange don't line up with the gasket/turbo outlet. A piece this expensive should NOT require any modification to install, was very frustrating to say the least. Was able to reinstall the stock studs and drill out one of the holes slightly, used one of the supplied allen bolts/spacers on the top right most bolt hole and the factory hardware for the rest of it. And the midpipe bolts were another story altogether, the flex section is way too large and it was damn near impossible to bolt to the stock midpipe. Aftermarket exhausts probably fit much easier but we had to bolt it to the stock pipe.


Got it done late last night and went for a drive and it started spiking 12-13 lbs! No boost controller just stock WG pressure, really puzzled as to why it's running such high boost. Guess he has to purchase a new wastegate for the stock turbo. It ran 7psi before the DP, car hits fuel cut like crazy and stutters some so he needs an AFC now but it pulls hard when it spikes. Now i'm just praying he doesn't blow it up before we can get the AFC installed.
Click to expand...
Also I cut a 6mm allen wrench down to fit the tight spots with the manifold and do to turbo.
ZealoustheEnder said:
The Pope do does for nicely to a 3" exhaust and I remember he told me it would be difficult to a stock. Glad you got it. I had boost spikes because of so much flow. Definitely let him know and give feed back. I to the pretension off the waste gate and also tapped my turbo like the big boys for a better signal for the actuator. my next thing is a piggyback.
Click to expand...
 
Today I got a few things done before work. Moved my oil gauge over to 2566 finished installing my wideband it only reads 14.5 didn't have time to address it. Checked and tightened up suspension. Fixed power steering bad jy pump. Installed upgraded fuel pump...holy molybdenum does that change the whole car Zoom Zoom
 
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