What have you done to your MSP today?

The thickness of the axle shaft itself is the only difference, it's very possible the cv joints are different and stronger but I have no idea. They are interchangeable.
 
i wouldn't worry too much about the 2mm thickness in difference. out with the old and in with the new!

11176295_1445303329101952_812312438_n.jpg
 
I almost finished with the motor swap. I have axels, fluids and clutch bleeding. Then a few upgrades wideband needs to be installed and oil gauge need to be moved over.

2566 was such a hack job! The fact that a speed shop signed of on this build makes me sick. I can not begin to list all the issues. Took out the rusted cross member and installed a donor that I painted. Touched up rust in the engine compartment. And installed my CS exhaust.
 
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hornsfan10609 said:
I don't mind removing the turbo again, I just want it to make boost. (Full story of the car so we are on the same page: Purchased car with blown motor, 110k. Swapped JY motor and reinstalled turbo, car runs great no vac leaks and very smooth just will not push boost. Ebay fmic kit and relocated maf with no apparent leaks.) There was oil in the hot pipe and a small pool in the intake when I first pulled it because it would not build boost.

You can tell from the pics the turbine wheel is not damaged, the blades and the housing are perfect. I can try another wastegate actuator but it definitely has a good amount of tension on the wg flap, it takes some force to move it. What can cause a turbo to blow oil and not build boost? I assume it would be the seals inside the center cartridge behind the compressor wheel. Is there anything else it could be?

I would like to believe this turbo is ok, PO said the car pushed 8psi all day but I purchased it from another guy who only had it long enough to put 1k miles on it (and blow it up). Hard to believe the turbo and motor could both be bad. No shrapnel made it through the engine when the #1 rod snapped, the head and manifolds were fine so no particles could have damaged the turbine wheel as far as I know.
Click to expand...

Sorry it's been a while. Wife had a cesarean on Monday. Boy #2.

Anyways, from your pictures it is impossible to tell this... (See figure 5) http://www.blouchturbo.com/turbofacts-1.html

If the motor had been ZZB'd it's definetly possible that something went through the the turbo. Your going to need to get a good flashlight and your head right in there to see down and between the blades.

These ball bearing turbos are extremely hearty. The fact that it could take that kind o damage and not be rubbing the housings is very possible. If this damage did happen it's possible that the added vibration from imbalance could cause seal wear on the compressor end as the seal is located in a cast aluminum seal plate. I've seen these wear pretty badly without the turbo blowing up. We have reconditioned these BB turbos at work, if and only if the bearings were in excellent condition. As we are a Garrett distributor we by contract cannot use any of these ebay bearing and seal kits but personally is like to hear how they work as ebay units are very "hit and miss".

Again, let me know what you find. Even if you decide to exchange the turbo with a used one. Like I said before. A good ised one can last a long time.
 
Congrats on your new baby that is nice to hear, I found a GT2554r from an MSP with 45k miles I plan to replace the bad turbo with. I can remove the housings again and get a better look at it but the compressor side wheel does not have any damage and after messing with the WG flapper from the outside without removing the S pipe the car did start to push 6psi of boost and it did so 4-5 times before it went back to not boosting which really puzzles me and makes me think this turbo is ok. I still cannot figure out why it won't build boost, maybe it is the wastegate actuator. How much is it to rebuild a BB turbo at the shop you work at?
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Congrats on your new baby that is nice to hear, I found a GT2554r from an MSP with 45k miles I plan to replace the bad turbo with. I can remove the housings again and get a better look at it but the compressor side wheel does not have any damage and after messing with the WG flapper from the outside without removing the S pipe the car did start to push 6psi of boost and it did so 4-5 times before it went back to not boosting which really puzzles me and makes me think this turbo is ok. I still cannot figure out why it won't build boost, maybe it is the wastegate actuator. How much is it to rebuild a BB turbo at the shop you work at?
Click to expand...
As mentioned earlier, we can refurbish them but not rebuild. Garrett does not release internal components for the bb turbos and we can only clean and rebalance reasonable working units. If any components are damaged we have to offer replacement cartridges (CHRA). I'm interested to see what your issue ends up being. I could see the turbine housing swing valve being stuck open and then fiddling with it allows it to close, then it sticks open again.
 
I removed the S pipe and hammered the sleeve for the WG flap back in and it moves easily with no binding or scraping of the housing when I had it off the car. Cannot figure out how it was able to push boost for a few minutes then back to no boost.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
I removed the S pipe and hammered the sleeve for the WG flap back in and it moves easily with no binding or scraping of the housing when I had it off the car. Cannot figure out how it was able to push boost for a few minutes then back to no boost.
Click to expand...

If the bushing/sleeve is moving in the housing I bet the housing is warped or cracked and as soon as it sees operating temps it slides out. If you can get a little mirror in behind the actuator, check how centered the rod is going into the pressure pot. If it's not centered that may be part of the issue. The cocking of the rod could potentially put radial pressure on the valve/bushing causing it to move. If it is cocked, try turning the housing or moving the actuator bracket to centralize it more. I've seen my fair share of issues from cocked actuators.... Including rods that have been worn almost all the way through from rubbing on the bracket right at the pot.
 
Turbo came in but I won't have time to install it at least until Thursday, have finals and papers and tests and so much bulls*** to do right now in addition to helping my friend pull the M3 drivetrain from an E36 BMW to swap into another project when I have time.
 
Started parting out the msp today. I'm thinking most things will go pretty easy I just don't know if I should keep my "good stuff" and buy an msp from the south or somewhere there's no rust. Or just sell everything and move to another platform. Problem is the cars are not that cheap or easy to find. I'd love an sw20 mr2 or and fd but at minimun 6k for either one idn what I should do.... :/
 
Oh also I'm planning on taking the motor from the mp3 and making a take out of it. Was thinking of taking out the internals, space out the block and head and put LEDs in the head.
 
got my gram lights on with msp fitment tires. much better than the wollowy marshmellows i was on before.

the car has a stumble thats kind of annoying. between 1500-2000 rpm. i cant really tell if its missfiring or blubbering from being rich, but it kind of struggles then once it passes the magic 2k, it runs as expected. happens anytime you start out in a lower rpm and accellerate.
maybe something to do with vtcs delete? there was an other 4 pin connector near the trans that didnt connect to anything. wasnt sure as both o2 sensors were connected and there is no cel =\
 
Pic of connector? It does sound like an O2 connector if it has 4 pins. How old are your plugs? Fresh plugs gapped properly and resetting the computer works almost every time.
 
fresh plugs but old coil packs. this is the engine i swapped, but it was running normally in the black car... but both o2 sensors are plugged in... i did use the manifold and jpipe from the silver car though that never ran when i got it, so maybe an issue.. .. its weird.. unless the p5 came with the o2 extension the msp does?
... well. unless i plugged an o2 sensor into somthing else lol... basically i laid out the lines the way they naturally wanted to go, matched colors/pin count and double checked on the msp..
 
im dumb.. grey two pin female connector with a purple dot on it. comes off the starter branch. no cel but the brake light is on.
 
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