What have you done to your MSP today?

maybe buy some extra e clips.. its VERY VERY easy to lose that stupid thing.putting the actuator on is no big deal, but i had to space my with some bolts.
 
It took me about 3 hours to button everything back up. Hah, my stock plastic intake piping was melted on.
...3 frustrating hours, a heatgun, double-jointed wrists and knuckles, and multiple aforementioned bonghits.
 
maybe someone has a turbo on their bench to measure the pin size, but any auto parts/hardware store will sell eclips. id say 5mm/1/4" but i dont know for sure. absolutely nothing special about them.
 
Is this it?:

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I have a pretty significant oil leak coming from somewhere. I've checked the things I can get to easily - turbo oil return line, valve cover, oil pan + drain, oil filter tightness, but it seems to be dripping onto the splash guard on the left side of the car, then onto the ground. Compression is good in all cylinders, coolant has no oil in it, and the oil is free from coolant (so no head gasket issues).

A mechanic at work wants to say it might be the front main seal, which makes sense considering where its dripping from. Most major seals (unsure of that one) have been replaced within the last 20,000 miles, as was the timing belt, serpentine belts, and water pump. The current rate of oil loss is around 1 qt per 1,000-1,500 miles.

Any ideas?
 
I have a pretty significant oil leak coming from somewhere. I've checked the things I can get to easily - turbo oil return line, valve cover, oil pan + drain, oil filter tightness, but it seems to be dripping onto the splash guard on the left side of the car, then onto the ground. Compression is good in all cylinders, coolant has no oil in it, and the oil is free from coolant (so no head gasket issues).

A mechanic at work wants to say it might be the front main seal, which makes sense considering where its dripping from. Most major seals (unsure of that one) have been replaced within the last 20,000 miles, as was the timing belt, serpentine belts, and water pump. The current rate of oil loss is around 1 qt per 1,000-1,500 miles.

Any ideas?

The front crankshaft seal is on the right side of the vehicle...
 
with my pope stuff coming soon, im gonna look into getting my new exhaust and maybe some intake parts ect.
in the meantime, i have a pretty good feeling the valve stem seals will need to be swapped, just by how much smoke im getting on cold starts.. the car has been sitting for a while but i ran it for like half an hour last time and it smoked the whole time. ill prob pull the turbo for inspection but i couldnt imagine the seals being bad on it at 133km.

what brand seals should i try to get? Not going to puill the head off, or intake mani. gonna replace the valve stem seals, cam seals ect, timing belt, water pump, front and rear crankshaft seals if possible without dropping the crank.. trans will be out of the car so no prob there. anything else inexpensive?

ive just used beck arnley on the wifes car or whatever the parts guy gives me which works just fine for hers and my p5, but maybve the msp should get something a little better?
 
Industry standard- Left is the drivers side, right is the passenger side.

You and I know that, but does he? By how he was describing the leak, it seemed to me he didn't know that was the industry standard.
 
I agree must be the front main seal, probably some from the upper oil pan/mbsp as well. And possibly the oil cooler.
 
That's my point. The OP said the leak was from the left side, but also said from the front main seal, which is on the right side. So is the leak actually on the left side, or the right side. If you're not used to the industry standard, many people state left and right facing the engine instead of setting inside the car, which results in left and right being backwards.
 
Anyone know of any OEM style hardpipe kits being made/sold that would allow for MAF relocation? I could make it myself, but that's a big pain in the ass and I'd have to make it out of mild/stainless since I can't weld aluminum yet.
 
I've got this annoying shifter vibration which is driving me nuts. I've already replaced the bushings on shifter rod below. If I push the shifter to the right it goes away. Everything looked good inside when I removed the console and inspected the shifter. Anyone else have this a solve it? Stock shifter by the way.
 
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