What have you done to your MSP today?

Did anyone get some baller stuff for their MSP this Christmas?
 
I got some money and gift cards... Not enough or for anywhere that has stuff I really want... Other than food... Who needs that?
 
i dunno about you, but i wouldn't expect or trust my wife to buy me anything car related or even rc car related lol. she buys me the stuff i dont want to buy like clothes and personal care goodies so im free to spend the money i want on the parts i want heh.
this year the msp will get some love for sure. not gonna buy any rc stuff for the first year in like.. 5.. though i wouldnt mind a new nitro car... kinda sad that i could get a mfactory and corksport exhaust for what that will set me back lol.. just 1/10 nitro even.
these arent really toy cars though. full blown competition race cars.

i guess the disturbing irony is that i got into racing rc cars cause i was told myself it costs less than playing with real cars.. yet i have 5 of em costing about $1000/peice on average lol.. not to mention all my support gear like radio and tools.. i prob has as much money in very hard screwdrivers and setup stuff for the toy cars as i have in mechanic tools lol. ONE mip hex driver is almost $20... im pretty sure i got my entire 12pt socket kit for that.

If i hadnt got into rc 5 years ago, i think my msp would be right up there with some of the other 400++ hp ones heh.
 
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I got into that type of stuff years ago. I used to hook them up, different rims, tires, lip kits, and even performance mods. lol. I told myself the samething. It costs at lot less to hook those up then real cars... After talking to my uncle over this past Christmas Im kinda regretting letting go of my Toyota Supra in Chicago. It was an 88', Turbo. About 230hp stock... I'll see if I can find a picture of it. I kept telling myself it was too expensive to maintain... but from the looks of the MSP, its kind of on the same boat...
 
My wifey got me a set of lowering springs for mine.I am gonna just use the front ones to lower it a little cuase the car sits low on the back.They are megans.
She also got me a new microtech ltc dash 2 run on my RX7 with my LT9 with 32x32 software!
She drives a ms3 and she is also into cars so when xmas and my bday are around i can expect good quality car parts!
 
Got a new warranty replacement battery. The cold weather combined with not driving it killed the other one. So far none of my replacement batteries have lasted as long as the OEM Panasonic (6 years). Won't be driving it much until I get ready to put another 1,100 straight miles heading back to FL.
 
Pretty sure the 240K mile motor in the silver MSP is going to pass away at any time now. She was sipping oil earlier in the year, but now she is drinking it. If it somehow makes it to 250K it would be a miracle.
 
Setting at the tire shop getting the summer wheels and tires taken off and the steelies and brand new Bridgestone Blizzak WS80's put on. I have the old version of this tire, the WS70 on my work truck and it's the best snow tire I've ever had.
 
I might grab a 100k mile wga and exhaust mani just for temporary repairs for $70. Seen pics of the mani and has a few weld spots due to old cracks.
 
dont waste money on that stuff. get the atp and save up for a pope.. ive been driving on cracked stocker missing two studs for 3 years.. makes a mad ticking under hard accelleration but otherwise, NO PROBLEM>
 
ws 80? holy. i still got ws60s i got in 2010. might be time for new ones. hopefully they made them better in wet weather.

ps, exhaust leaks though they make your car sound like a peice of s***, dont really hurt anything. just leave it be til you can fix it the ONE time. ive had arp manifold studs sitting in a drawer to sort this out for a long time but there just wasnt anything out there for replacment manis.
there prob wont be after the pope either. you can attempt to have the stock casting repaired but from my experience, most shops wont touch the cast iron and whatever fix they do will be stronger than the original metal, thus pushing the future failures further into the part.

if you can get a steedspeed, do so.. alternately a used mam would be an option and obvious the pope.

there was an ebay thunder manifold in production.. not sure if they still out there.. opinions kinda.. meh.. they work but they break. might work forever for you though. not all of us beat our cars like pref heh.
 
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The WRX is so close to being finished! I am going to throw a clutch in the MSP then a transmission and clutch in the RX8. After that, I'm taking an automotive repair vacation.

I've got 6-7 hours in the carbon fiber hood and am still on my first stage of wet sanding... I started with 800 grit... 1/3 of the hood I've got done looks awesome... But, I've been through 5 sheets of 800 grit and only have 1/3 done. I decided yesterday to be brave... I went with 500 grit. And thank gawd I did! I spent 45 minutes on it last night after I got done working on the WRX and it ripped that janky-ass clear off with ease. I'm going to get all the clear off tonight, then start wet sanding again- 800>1000>1200>1500>2000>3000 trizac>Polishing pad. I think I can have it done in 3-4 hours. I spent a little while the other day with just a Trizac pad and polishing pad and it looked awesome, so my hopes are high with this one. Someone has already sprayed a clear over the gelcoat and that's what I'm trying to get off. I'm not going to reapply a clear to it, just polish it.
 
sike. you'll never take an automotive repair vacation lol. something will always come up.
 
Pretty sure the 240K mile motor in the silver MSP is going to pass away at any time now. She was sipping oil earlier in the year, but now she is drinking it. If it somehow makes it to 250K it would be a miracle.

That would be more impressive than David Blaine at 1am (crazy) hahaha

Because race car.

CAn't be. It's broken too often to get used properly :p
 
sheesh man. i would have hit that b**** with a dual action until i hit gelcoat lol. if the paints peeling its all gotta come off anyway. stip/wetsand, respray within 3 hours TOPS. its just clear.

then you gotta wait like 72 hours to wetsand and polish it for best results. and even a polish only needs 1500/2500 grits after clearcoat. but you need a good polish system. the mcquires stuff wont be good enough to take out 2500 scratches without a shitload of hand polishing.

you SHOULD clearcoat the gelcoat though. it probably doesn't have uv protection built in. that's what the clear is for.
 
sheesh man. i would have hit that b**** with a dual action until i hit gelcoat lol. if the paints peeling its all gotta come off anyway. stip/wetsand, respray within 3 hours TOPS. its just clear.

then you gotta wait like 72 hours to wetsand and polish it for best results. and even a polish only needs 1500/2500 grits after clearcoat. but you need a good polish system. the mcquires stuff wont be good enough to take out 2500 scratches without a shitload of hand polishing.

you SHOULD clearcoat the gelcoat though. it probably doesn't have uv protection built in. that's what the clear is for.

I just don't want to get into the fiber obviously. If I had a DA, I'd have used it, but I've just been using a sanding block. After that, I'm going to use the Turtle Wax rubbing, then polishing compound with a polishing wheel. Unless I really should use a clearcoat. In the past 12 years in the automotive industry, beyond mixing paint and going to a few PBR classes in 2004/2005 I've done almost no other body work. I hate it. I absolutely hate it. And for that reason, I've never actually invested time in learning it. What I've done so far with this hood has been entirely from various forum posts from EVERYWHERE. I had initially planned to clear the hood, but it turned out so well without it, I didn't think I'd need to, but then you bring up the fact that it likely does NOT have UV protection... If, in fact, it doesn't then I have no other choice but to clear it. There are quite a few small cracks in the gel coat that I know I can't do anything about. I've got about $120 invested in the hood. It's not going to be perfect, but I'd like for it to at least look "okay". The clear that's on the hood is horrible and thin except for the front- either they laid it heavy to protect it or it's the way the hung/painted the hood. I really wish I hadn't spent so much time with the 800 grit. I know why it took so long and why I shouldn't have used it. I was attacking the hood from a "wet sand" point of view, when the real issue was the clearcoat that I needed to remove FIRST. It's been a learning experience.
 
Yea... auto paint work is pretty rough but its nothing like trying to bring wood or any pourous surface up to high gloss heh.
Gelcoat is pretty hard stuff and usually applied thick, so you shouldn't have to worry about hitting fibers. As long as you can wipe the whole thing down with alcohol and it looks the same color, you prob got most of the clear. Clear tends to yellow slightly.

800wet will get through most paints easily esp with a block. Just spend as much time on 1500 and 2500 wet. Then work up from abrasive to fine polish and it will work great. I'd almost handpolish but use lowest rpm setting on polisher amd take your time. If it gets cloudy, your polishing too fast and burning your top coat.

Youwill need to continuously add wax to the polish to maintain it. Bit again, gelcoat very hard stuff.
 
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