What have you done to your MSP today?

I installed the Corksport exhaust silencer yesterday....today was the first drive to work with it installed. Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo quiet inside the car now lol It's actually nice haha

I could notice a little bit of decreased performance due to the restriction but the quiet was worth it lol

can i get a vid? i just bought a corksport 80mm with silencer to replace my perrin (too loud) and i wanted the option to have it quiet or not, so corksport was my choice. im not too concerned with power loss though, hell im going to be 15psi in a disco potato, i dont think a momentary decrease in exhaust size all the way at the end will give me much of a problem.
 
I'll try to get one soon for everyone
can i get a vid? i just bought a corksport 80mm with silencer to replace my perrin (too loud) and i wanted the option to have it quiet or not, so corksport was my choice. im not too concerned with power loss though, hell im going to be 15psi in a disco potato, i dont think a momentary decrease in exhaust size all the way at the end will give me much of a problem.
 
Anybody take the wing off of their MSP and have issues with being pulled over? I don't know how strict cops are about no 3rd brake light, though it probably varies from state to state. I'm thinking of taking off my wing because all it does is shake like crazy due to my motor mounts and obviously doesn't function like a wing should. Also wondering what I should use to plug the holes if I do remove it. It may only be temporary so I don't want to fill them with epoxy or whatever. Thoughts?
 
Anybody take the wing off of their MSP and have issues with being pulled over? I don't know how strict cops are about no 3rd brake light, though it probably varies from state to state. I'm thinking of taking off my wing because all it does is shake like crazy due to my motor mounts and obviously doesn't function like a wing should. Also wondering what I should use to plug the holes if I do remove it. It may only be temporary so I don't want to fill them with epoxy or whatever. Thoughts?

there's push plugs a bunch of guys use. you can get them at advance, napa and other things. they're cheap. and paintable.there's a thread on here somewhere for that.
 
i never heard of anyone getting pulled over for not having one, you could snag a 3rd brake light from a regular protege that mounts on the rear deck to be safe. Just pop out your 3rd brake delete and put it in.

i have heard of ppl getting pulled for the light being burned out, but never not having one.
 
UPDATE!! the aem wb seems to be workin fine with the ecu.. what you need to do is calibrate the WB.. refer to the aem uego instructions.. you need to change the setting to p3 for 0-1v output which is about what our stock o2's run.. just connect white aem wb wire to ecu pin#60 pink/blue i believe to the ecu.. i been running it since saturday and no problems and the mpi is reading the afrs fine.. however i did run into one problem that was keepin me into open loop do to no signal from the 02.. turns out there is a wire that spliced both 02s together pin 60 and pin 30 i think.. i found this thread about it http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...O2-wire-at-the-ECU-SSAFC-guys-please-chime-in. however it doesn't explain y it was spliced anyone know as to why this would be done?? so if any of your are having o2 problems and cannot figure it out.. look at the harness goin to ecu and see if yours is splice.. i disconnected the wire and now its reading fine.. so any thoughts??
 
Have you noticed any improvement?

i did notice an improvement but idk if its from my WB being inplace of stock o2 or cause i disconnected the splice from the o2 sensor inputs.. but i'm no longer going into open loop due to system failure.. so far so good
 
its under the caps. should I add more?

I went crazy with mine to be on the safe side, I put it on all the lobes as well since I don't think they'll see oil right away. here's a shoot before I put on the caps of the exhaust

005.jpg
 
UPDATE!! the aem wb seems to be workin fine with the ecu.. what you need to do is calibrate the WB.. refer to the aem uego instructions.. you need to change the setting to p3 for 0-1v output which is about what our stock o2's run.. just connect white aem wb wire to ecu pin#60 pink/blue i believe to the ecu.. i been running it since saturday and no problems and the mpi is reading the afrs fine.. however i did run into one problem that was keepin me into open loop do to no signal from the 02.. turns out there is a wire that spliced both 02s together pin 60 and pin 30 i think.. i found this thread about it http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...O2-wire-at-the-ECU-SSAFC-guys-please-chime-in. however it doesn't explain y it was spliced anyone know as to why this would be done?? so if any of your are having o2 problems and cannot figure it out.. look at the harness goin to ecu and see if yours is splice.. i disconnected the wire and now its reading fine.. so any thoughts??

I'm glad you are looking into this, because I've been looking at how I can rewire some stuff in order to make my AEM EMS-4 sort of like a piggyback. I want it to have full control over the fuel and timing but still leave the basic things for the stock ECU if possible. I don't want the normal 'wire tap' setup that alters the signal, I want the ECU to have no control over the fuel system period. The factory narrowband sensor could very well foil my plans for this, but if that is rewired to accept my wideband then we may be on to something here.
 
Well soo far the piggyback seems to be working fine with the uego wired into the ecu in place of the stock input.. just remember to calibrate it.. but does anyone know as to why both o2 inputs would be tapped together? I really wana kno why that was done. But the threads lile the one I posted doesn't have a explanation.
 
hmmm...thats interesting. that would really help me out, since my DP has an O2 bung pointed right at the radiator lol
So you just unplug the primary O2 or what? You should make like an ongoing how-to thread
 
hmmm...thats interesting. that would really help me out, since my DP has an O2 bung pointed right at the radiator lol
So you just unplug the primary O2 or what? You should make like an ongoing how-to thread

no if you clip it off you will get a cel.. all the white aem wire does is replace the signal wire from our stock o2 sensor.. but perhaps a heater resistor would work? thats how i eliminated my secone o2 sensor.. o2simulator/heater resistor..
 
UPDATE!! the aem wb seems to be workin fine with the ecu.. what you need to do is calibrate the WB.. refer to the aem uego instructions.. you need to change the setting to p3 for 0-1v output which is about what our stock o2's run.. just connect white aem wb wire to ecu pin#60 pink/blue i believe to the ecu.. i been running it since saturday and no problems and the mpi is reading the afrs fine.. however i did run into one problem that was keepin me into open loop do to no signal from the 02.. turns out there is a wire that spliced both 02s together pin 60 and pin 30 i think.. i found this thread about it http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...O2-wire-at-the-ECU-SSAFC-guys-please-chime-in. however it doesn't explain y it was spliced anyone know as to why this would be done?? so if any of your are having o2 problems and cannot figure it out.. look at the harness goin to ecu and see if yours is splice.. i disconnected the wire and now its reading fine.. so any thoughts??

Ahh, so the stock ECU uses a 0-1v signal.

Damn, I am going to get the Innovate MTX-L, which comes with two analog outputs of 0-5v. One of the analog outputs was going to my Microtech and I was hoping to give the other output to the stock ECU.

Is there any way to convert the 0-5v signal from the Innovate to the 0-1v for the stock ECU?
 
I went crazy with mine to be on the safe side, I put it on all the lobes as well since I don't think they'll see oil right away. here's a shoot before I put on the caps of the exhaust

005.jpg

looks good. Couldn't I just pour oil on them if that is the concern. Most likely stick with the assembly lube since it tends to stick around longer than motor oil.
 
Ahh, so the stock ECU uses a 0-1v signal.

Damn, I am going to get the Innovate MTX-L, which comes with two analog outputs of 0-5v. One of the analog outputs was going to my Microtech and I was hoping to give the other output to the stock ECU.

Is there any way to convert the 0-5v signal from the Innovate to the 0-1v for the stock ECU?

I'm not sure on the innovate. I would say look at the instructions and see if there would be away to fo it.. our ecu's say they use a 0-0.5v.. but so far its workin fine with the ecu and my mpi piggyback.
 
looks good. Couldn't I just pour oil on them if that is the concern. Most likely stick with the assembly lube since it tends to stick around longer than motor oil.
yes, I would use oil over that grease s*** the other guy used. Assembly lube only needs to be used on the bearings/journals, its mainly there to protect the journals until the engine builds oil pressure on first start up.
 

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