What have you done to your MSP today?

Its finally nice to have traction in 1st and 2nd gear even from a roll in the afternoon, Its even nicer to be able to get on the car early in the mornings without hitting fuel cut! However I will miss the huge power difference that I was making at 9/10lbs of boost compared to the 5/6 that im currently running. With that said Its also comforting to know I wont or well shouldnt be joining the zoom zoom BOOM club any time soon.
 
What did you fix to make your driveability better? Here's hoping that you finally have it figured out so you can actually enjoy the car.
 
I got it, loosend the bolts through the other mounts then I put the bolt through the mount and tightend down on the fender and the two on the block till I could put the bolts to the frame on. Then tighted everything down and the bolts through all the mounts. Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be done but it worked

Done for the night, back at it again in the morning. Have a week left to get everything done.

Glad to hear it worked out for you.
 
lol just because your running lower boost dosent mean you wont blow up, it is a FS-DE

true but a hell of a lot less likely to go BOOM
What did you fix to make your driveability better? Here's hoping that you finally have it figured out so you can actually enjoy the car.
Ditched the ATP WGA which was makign me boost 9/10psi with 11psi spike to a stocker that is adjustable and fixed my exhaust leak at the head. Now I was still having driveablity issues BEFORE that leak even started so that wasnt my issue.

Edit: I also put my MBC back on this early morning (3am) and bosting 8/9psi hitting cut.. removed it and went pure wga and all is good in the colder weather.
 
Accessory belts, timing belt, and water pump are off the car now and sitting on my garage floor Waiting for the rest of the coolant drip to stop at the water pump hole so I can clean everything up and put it all back together. This has been a piece of cake so far. I'm writing down everything I can while doing this so I can make a how-to. Unfortunately my wife left the DSLR at work so I couldn't take pictures of the disassemble, but if I can get the Canon point and shoot working I'll take pictures going backwards to put pictures to instructions.
 
BTW, 103000 miles and the timing belt looks fine, the alternator belt was on it's way out, power steering belt looks fine, and the water pump has an ever so slight bit of play in the bearing. Not bad considering the abuse this car has been through.
 
waiting on the word from the shop on when they are going to start pulling and tearing the motor apart. My finger is getting pretty itchy on this left mouse button...ready to click "checkout" on a shortblock build kit from Sam. GT3071R, steedspeed mani, Haltech standalone, Mfactory LSD, meth injection and a few other things are to follow. May be ordering a set of PAR bearing reinforcement cups to relieve some of the stress on the transmission. To add icing to the cake, headwork will follow to include selling my FSZE cams and getting a set custom ground. Debating on cryo treatment on the gearset. Once Im done with the motor, suspension follows. GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!!! lol Might even satisfy my CF craving and get that CF hood, trunk and roof cap I always wanted. Of course, this is all over a period of time. Not blowing money all at once. Looking forward to starting my build thread. It will be kind of hard to do it from way out here in Iraq, but I will be keeping in touch with the shop throughout the build process and have them email pix and some video so I can post them on here.
 
its much more rewarding if you do it yourself. Im not to big on cars that are done by shops...just means you have alot of money. Either route you choose, should still be a sick build
 
Plus not all shops know wtf they're doing. Last steedspeed manifold I bought, I took it to a local tuner shop and they wound up getting one of my ARP studs lodged in it because they didn't clear the threads... so they charged me $250 to install my ATP wastegate and nothing else.
 
So I'm changing my rear endlinks, again. This time I have stock ones to put on, but I can't get the nuts to thread on. I thought they were the OEM nuts since they are rusted to s*** but I used wd40 and still won't thread. They are 17mm but I have no idea what kind of thread they have. Any geniuses with useless knowledge of this car to give me a hand? I might have to run to lowes.
 
Sorry for the triple post...

Endlinks are done, though I noticed my car is smoking like crazy out the tail pipe so I didn't drive it out of the driveway. Checked my oil and it's right on the L... scared the s*** out of me, so I'm getting a ride to walmart for some oil right now.
 
BTW, 103000 miles and the timing belt looks fine, the alternator belt was on it's way out, power steering belt looks fine, and the water pump has an ever so slight bit of play in the bearing. Not bad considering the abuse this car has been through.

Did mine at 110k and it looked fine.
 
Did mine at 110k and it looked fine.

Yeah, I was quite surprised how good it looked. It appears Mazda did a few things right with this engine. I got the water pump and belt reinstalled yesterday, but had to do the belt twice because the exhaust cam and crank moved slightly during the install, so the exhaust cam was off one tooth. Tonight, weather pending, I'll get the valve cover and the accessory belts installed and maybe get it back on the ground.

Considering the condition of the parts I took off, I would seriously consider advising people to just inspect the belt by taking off the valve cover and if it looks fine, just leave it. As for the water pump, pull the accessory belts and check the pulley for any type of play. No play, just leave it.
 
On mine the belt was still taught, so who knows. My car was modified for probably less than two years, putting down around 195 to the wheels. So it wasn't under that much stress for very long. Maybe that has something to do with it? I'm still on my original clutch too, which is surprising since I've been autocrossing it since I got it in 2005.
 
anybody know where the clip for the VICS or VTCS (whichever one is closer to the head) goes to? I have the clip part the was attached to the intake mani but can't find the wires to reattach them.

just to be clear, I'm not looking for the other half of the clip
 

New Threads and Articles

Back