What have you done to your MSP today?

I used GM syncromesh on my last car. Great product. Shifts like butter. Im going to change out my tranny fluid one of these days. Im going to try Redline MT90 75/90.

I have put it in an old grand am and man did that make a HUGE difference in the shifting. HOwever that s*** is like 10 bucks bottle at the dealership.
 
i just used the synchromesh royal purple a few weeks ago, it's great, shifts so nice now, and a lot easier to put it into reverse after parking the car, before I kinda had to double shift sometimes after I had it parked and not warmed up or anything.. too bad it's about $15+ per L but oh well, won't need to use again for a while
 
Wasn't today, but I threw the STi's track wheels on the MSP for a quick shot. Got that vdub poke!
IMG_3823.jpg
 
Not at all. Was finally getting around to taking the winter wheels off, so I threw the Rotas on and set her down to snap some pics, then took them off.
 
got the new passanger side awr engine mount and tranny mount in kinda...hopefully my car will be running tonight
 
I pulled a code today - P0171 - System Too Lean - Bank 1

The printout reads:
Definition
Lean Air/Fuel Ratio bank 1
(Cylinder number 1 denotes bank 1)

Probable cause

#1 - low fuel pressure
#2 - Large vacuum leak
#3 - Dirty/defective MAF sensor
#4 - Engine mechanical condition

The symptoms are that the car stumbles badly when in WOT and boosting, especially in fourth gear. The code goes away after a while if I drive like a granny. If I go WOT again, the CEL come back.

I think I must be the fifth member on these boards to throw this code this week alone.

Boost gauge reads -21 at idle, and boost is steady at 8.5psi until the stumbling begins. I replaced my MAF yesterday, so I doubt that's it.

The common suggestion seems to be a leak in the intake piping, but I don't think that's it. My MAF is relocated, so I think that it would run lean from such a leak. I've also replaced my MAF and that didn't fix the issue. I'll be replacing all the couplings anyway. I have some worm clamps and some T-clamps. I'll replace all the worm clamps with T-clamps along with the couplings.

I don't think it would be an exhaust leak, because I think that would just make the ECU adjust to run even richer, wouldn't it? I'll be getting the exhaust checked for leaks anyway.

I'm thinking it's a bad fuel pump or injector. In the meantime, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Is there any way to test/check the fuel pump to see if it has gone bad?

Thanks.
 
If it eventually throws a P0400 Misfire code, then its for sure your coil packs. Mine was reading P0171 and P0400 - replaced the coils and wires and it all ran fine again. Happened randomly though, no particular power setting, but mostly under power is when I noticed it... Good luck!
 
If it eventually throws a P0400 Misfire code, then its for sure your coil packs. Mine was reading P0171 and P0400 - replaced the coils and wires and it all ran fine again. Happened randomly though, no particular power setting, but mostly under power is when I noticed it... Good luck!


Thanks for the suggestions and the well wishes.

I replaced the coils and spark plug wires last fall. I replaced the spark plugs and the entire wiring harness 3 weeks ago.

I'm not getting any misfires. The P0171 code is the only one I'm getting.

I'll keep you all posted on what happens next.
 
lol, I had that same code come on a few days ago, reset the ecu and it hasn't come on yet, but the idling has been bad so far, also do you have a wideband? I didn't see one in your sig. but under WOT it's very possible that it's fuel cut because since the temp. dropped after this week, it's been hitting fuel cut which is stumbling unless you can get it to full boost before fuel cut than the engine just jerks, but I noticed that if it just hits fuel cut right off the bat, the engine just kinda fumbles and stuff, and the wideband shows 10 afr which is it's min. reading, im sure it's richer than that.. I just haven't had time to tune the car, and when I was about to, the CEL came on for the first time.. but ya, code hasn't come on yet again, but it was stumbling in idle before. I'm going to clean the MAF tomorrow and maybe the EGR sensor.. I had an exhaust mani leak from the side before but I could hear that and I fixed it (the bolts were just loose) so gotta figure it out.. I'm not sure what would make the fuel pump go bad all of a sudden, I had stabil in there when I stored it for the winter, I'm thinking about putting some seafoam in the gas and PCV valve to clean it out after sitting for the winter, I did it last summer but couldn't hurt to do it again...

would be nice if someone could figure this out, and it was a similar issue for all of us, I don't feel like having a long drawn out problem that I have to deal with.. I just want it to be something semi simple for once lol

EDIT: lol damn, 2 posts before I finished mine lol, oh also I had the car under full boost at 4th gear for a 30sec, story and other details here
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123771575&page=3
but I notice the bad idling, I know under WOT when it's this cold now (45-60) it's just fuel cut
 
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Cleaned the maf today. I actually had a 2nd maf in my garage. Cleaned it and threw it on. Car doesnt stumble anymore. Just some light hesitation.

Stealth - I bought the GM syncromesh from Autozone i think. It was 7-8 bucks a bottle. Took me two bottles. But i reccomend it to anyone. Good stuff.
 
would be nice if someone could figure this out, and it was a similar issue for all of us, I don't feel like having a long drawn out problem that I have to deal with.. I just want it to be something semi simple for once lol

I hear ya brotha.

I'm going to start simple with replacing the worm clamps and couplings on the intake piping. I'l also check the exhaust for leaks.

I'll report any progress.
 
Just drove the MSP down to birmingham for the Indy grand prix of Alabama this weekend! Bad news, clutch started slipping in 5th on the way down
 
halfway finished today:

  1. both headlights, clear coat sanded off, buffed out & re-glazed.
  2. re-placed shift knob w/OBX FatBoy CF knob.
  3. cleaning out wheel wells & spraying down w/Chemi Guys Fade-2-Black.
  4. rotating wheels F-to-B and installing Hasawaga black lug nuts on all four corners.
 
went to a cars and coffee meet, gonna dig out the summer wheels and clean them off.
 
I hear ya brotha.

I'm going to start simple with replacing the worm clamps and couplings on the intake piping. I'l also check the exhaust for leaks.

I'll report any progress.

dumb question, but you replaced the maf yesterday- is it installed correctly. yes there's a right and wrong way.
 

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