What have you done to your MSP today?

Dale you want to have a seamfoaming and oil change day? I am about due for both, easily been 2.5 years since my last seafoaming.

Lol yeah I remember the last time we did the top engine clean on your car.

Speedadiction the only problem I see is that you put it in through the pcv vacuum lines. Those vacuum ports only feed cylinders 2 and 3, 1 and 4 got nothing. There is a vacuum port on the top of the intake mani that is right after the tb and it will get into the plenums.

The idea of seafoam is to remove the carbon and any other desposits in your engine. Did it in my rx7 not too long ago, I think my neighbors hate me.
 
Dale you want to have a seamfoaming and oil change day? I am about due for both, easily been 2.5 years since my last seafoaming.

Luke seafoamed our cars awhile back and I think he scared the bejeesus out of the new neighbors. :D
 
holy crap, lol I tried posting right after shadows first post about the warping lol, guess I took too long

ya a sea foam bottle was only like $5-$6, and it is around the size of....I don't know like a gatorade bottle kinda, so maybe 16-18oz? didn't really read it too much except for the instructions, it's just 1/3 in the fuel, 1/3 in the crank, and 1/3 in the pvc/intake hoses (I just connected a larger vac hose to the angle connector that would usually connect to the PVC and just sucked it from a cup with the sea foam poured in there.. just make sure you suck it up slowly and the person behind the wheel really keeps it reved while your doing it, the person I had didn't realize it would die so quickly and it died, took a few cranks to get it going again, but after that, it was all good.

Edit: and shadow, really, I thought that going through those pvc lines ensured that I got them all, that's what I read on a couple of the other thread.. people that used the BB line said they didn't get all the cylinders.. here is where i connected it, right after PVC part in the pic
 

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oh i read motor not rotor lol my bad, talking about sea foaming... dint read the quoted post...
 
the metal is thinner.

That's still not going to cause it to warp. Your only thinning the metal by usually a absolute max of .02-.06 of an inch. The only two possible ways of ever warping your rotors is by improper lug nut torque (all 4-5 lug nuts on the wheel are at different torque) or improper cooling which means you stomp on the brakes and held them at a dead stop, the rotor then cools way different than the section under the pad. That's the reason if you ever come to a hard stop and have to stay stationary just inch foward slowly it will keep the rotors from warping.
 
That's still not going to cause it to warp. Your only thinning the metal by usually a absolute max of .02-.06 of an inch. The only two possible ways of ever warping your rotors is by improper lug nut torque (all 4-5 lug nuts on the wheel are at different torque) or improper cooling which means you stomp on the brakes and held them at a dead stop, the rotor then cools way different than the section under the pad. That's the reason if you ever come to a hard stop and have to stay stationary just inch foward slowly it will keep the rotors from warping.
you don't think the metal being a few hundeths of an inch thinner will change its integrity and/or properties? I worked in a tool and die shop... and anyone there will tell you differently.
 
that all depends on how many times the rotors have been turned...They're built thick enough that this can be done several times...sure, if you have them turned and their outside their required thickness then yeah thats probably not good, but otherwise there will be no issue with them unless you warp them in the scenario Shadow gives....
you don't think the metal being a few hundeths of an inch thinner will change its integrity and/or properties? I worked in a tool and die shop... and anyone there will tell you differently.
 
that all depends on how many times the rotors have been turned...They're built thick enough that this can be done several times...sure, if you have them turned and their outside their required thickness then yeah thats probably not good, but otherwise there will be no issue with them unless you warp them in the scenario Shadow gives....
just regular heat cycling from normal driving can be enough to warp them when they're near their minimum tolerances.. rotors aren't that expensive, so I will do it my way, even if its not "right", it works for me.
 
key word there...turning rotors that have never been turned certainly arent going to put them near that level...but whateva you wanna do
just regular heat cycling from normal driving can be enough to warp them when they're near their minimum tolerances.. rotors aren't that expensive, so I will do it my way, even if its not "right", it works for me.
 
you don't think the metal being a few hundeths of an inch thinner will change its integrity and/or properties? I worked in a tool and die shop... and anyone there will tell you differently.

I am sure it does change its properties but so does hitting metal with a hammer. Its all a matter of how much it changed the metal for it to be effected. Rotors are built (the the exception of certain companies) to be machined. That's why there is a minimum spec stamped on the rotor itself. Beyond that the rotor becomes unstable in a couple aspects.
 
key word there...turning rotors that have never been turned certainly arent going to put them near that level...but whateva you wanna do

I am sure it does change its properties but so does hitting metal with a hammer. Its all a matter of how much it changed the metal for it to be effected. Rotors are built (the the exception of certain companies) to be machined. That's why there is a minimum spec stamped on the rotor itself. Beyond that the rotor becomes unstable in a couple aspects.
my dad drives like an old man (well he is, but thats beside the point) and got the rotors on his camry turned... 5K later, warped pretty badly.. swapped em for new ones for about 60% more than the cost of turning them (it was $30 some a rotor I think)... problem solved. I don't pretend my way is the right way, as I said, its just what works for me so, its what I do...
I also know a guy who got about 130K out of a single set of rotors on full size dodge van with a custom wood top behind the cab (read: heavy as hell) and a full vinyl cutting rig in the back... never turned em, and got about what I'd expect outa the pads...
 
At 167k now on the p5 2nd set of pads and had to turn the rotors twice one time was due to the g/f warping them. Plus there is still plenty left to machine and we have another 20k at least on this set of pads.
 
so its been awhile since i have been under the MSP section of the forums...but just thought that i would update u guys on my car searching and guess what...i got 100% approval from my bank to purchase TRU-BOOST MS3 what the **** am i going to do with 300HP and 355 TQ....wait i know i know...make tons of sweet as ****** videos
 
There are different schools of thought on this... I will sacrifice a bit of pad life to save myself from warping rotors. brake pulse pisses me off. Turning the rotor makes it more likely to warp. So, I skip that process and just replace it with every other set of pads... works for me, if you think I'm braking cardinal laws, don't follow my example, I won't be hurt, I promise! lol

arent new rotors expensive?
 
how much do you pay (ballpark for one rotor), i may just say screw it and have them replaced
 
go to advance auto, or napa or something. prolly like..20-40 per rotor.. but if a shop bought them, it'd cost you like.. 150 a rotor.
 

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