What have you done to your MSP today?

[SeR_Cyclops]

you CAN change WGA with out removing the turbo.

 

[Velocifero]

I've had my ATP a long time, at least two years probably more, never a problem with it and it's had an external spring on it most of that time as well holding me at 10psi.

 

[neox.286]

you CAN change WGA with out removing the turbo.

yea, but its a b**** to get the c-clip off with it on the turbo, even with as small of hands as I have lol

and its nearly impossible to get the c-clip back on without at least unbolting the turbo and pulling it away from the head >.<

it can be done, it's just annoying and almost easier to remove it (at least for me, I can pull the turbo assembly in an hour and a half now lol)


what I did to my msp today: removed the oil pump to send off to docB...then spent the rest of the day crunching numbers and researching the optimal turbocharger for my application...whoo! 25 psi here I come =P

 

[StealthWyvern]

yea, but its a b**** to get the c-clip off with it on the turbo, even with as small of hands as I have lol

and its nearly impossible to get the c-clip back on without at least unbolting the turbo and pulling it away from the head >.<

it can be done, it's just annoying and almost easier to remove it (at least for me, I can pull the turbo assembly in an hour and a half now lol)


what I did to my msp today: removed the oil pump to send off to docB...then spent the rest of the day crunching numbers and researching the optimal turbocharger for my application...whoo! 25 psi here I come =P

I cheated when I did my WGA install. I removed the J-pipe, unbolted the mani from the head, and loosed that bracket bolt from under the car thats by the s-pipe. Then let the turbo and exhuast mani lean towards the rad a bit and reached in and replaced that little clip. Also I would just go purchase new clips becuae im 99% sure everyone will lose that little bastard.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Yep, and unfortunately more money. Not to mention I really don't want to have to remove the turbo again

you can't take off the WGA with a 1/4" socket set without removing the turbo?

I used a standard socket set with extentsions and a swivel socket,and a wrench to remove those two nuts on the WGA. I got one from the top and one from the bottom. Just take your time.

 

[mspHtown]

On another bad note, I randomly tested my wastegate actuator and sure enough - it's shot. Now, its vacuum source is right off the turbo so a leak there wouldn't cause a problem. It does suck however because the ATP wastegate actuator is only 1 year old and it's already dead. This would explain why I randomly hit 14 psi a while back. Damn...

my atp lasted a few months, but i got it used. forge works great!

I would imagine since the diaphragm is located so close to the turbo/exhaust manifold, the rubber gets absolutely cooked.

did yall remove the small heat shield from the canister?

even with that dinky shield, the diaphragm sees extreme temps.

 

[neox.286]

I cheated when I did my WGA install. I removed the J-pipe, unbolted the mani from the head, and loosed that bracket bolt from under the car thats by the s-pipe. Then let the turbo and exhuast mani lean towards the rad a bit and reached in and replaced that little clip. Also I would just go purchase new clips becuae im 99% sure everyone will lose that little bastard.

yea, thats exactally what I recommend to get the job done...a little more work involved, but youll probably save yourself a lot of headache and possibly time (ironically)

and yea, those little c-clip bastards suck lol

 

[StealthWyvern]

yea, thats exactally what I recommend to get the job done...a little more work involved, but youll probably save yourself a lot of headache and possibly time (ironically)

and yea, those little c-clip bastards suck lol

If it makes life easier to remove it then remove it! It might take a little longer but its worth it for a lot less stress during the install. If you feel yourself getting frustrated take a brake for an hour and go back at it!

 

[neox.286]

what I've been considering today about the msp:
putting off finishing the msp....and buying a second msp as a daily driver so I can finish this one right...

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

Hahahaha here is the proof my intake is not plastic or PVC piping, I also paint it black, looks a lot better than white, let me know what you guys think...

Final Engine bay shots, looks much better in black...

 

[neox.286]

looks good bro!

gah I can't decide, buy a second protege and put off finishing this one until I can save up the cash I need....or just deal without a car at all....the later isn't as easy as it sounds where I live >.<

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

looks good bro!

gah I can't decide, buy a second protege and put off finishing this one until I can save up the cash I need....or just deal without a car at all....the later isn't as easy as it sounds where I live >.<

Thanks Neox, I'm trying to clean up stuff and make it look better, I'm waiting for a GReddy Pressure Sensor, and Pressure Sensor Harness i ordered from USA, according to my tracking number tomorrow at 9 am i should have it in my hands, I love DHL bro, 5 Business days shipping were not bulls***.. I need these parts to install my new Electronic Boost Controller, I really don't like that much using a manual one.. All of the sudden my GReddy Profec B Spec II got messed up, and is the unit, not the boost selenoid valve, I can't wait to install my new Toy,, I got from a friend of mine for free a Greddy Profec E-01, i just needed to order the missing parts mentioned above..

 

[magnumP5]

Well, no exhaust leaks when the car is cold but the idle is still irratic. Something must have happened between yesterday morning when I parked my car and yesterday afternoon when I left because I wasn't having these problems Tuesday night. My vacuum reading is still good but I know that even small leaks are enough to mess with these cars. The only thing I did was Tuesday night I cut a vacuum line shorter because there was too much slack. There are only about 3 other lines I haven't tested but I suppose it could be one of them. Any other areas I'm forgetting about?

 

[terbow]

...i have a spare...trade for one of your manis? hahahahahaha!

Sweet Deal! unless its a thunder cause im already dealing with that lol

 

[terbow]

I don't think I'll ever get rid of the turkey. I just had a HKS SSQV welded in and I still get a little turkey at low boost levels. It's using the brake booster as its vacuum source too. It probably has to do with the 8 miles of other vacuum lines I have under the hood.

I get a small flutter sound at low boost which will almost always happen cause your really not opening the valve fast enough. but ive never once had turkey. It must be a BOV thing. you boyz and your noize

 

[terbow]

always been told to tighten it enough to where you can twist the belt only +/- 90 degrees either way

ditto, and i also think ive heard 1/2" of deflection works too. (can only push it 1/2 inch from its resting line)

 

[terbow]

Well I just went down and checked just about every vacuum line. The BOV holds vacuum as do all other vacuum lines I could check. I can't find any leaks and I can't imagine anything else has seriously changed since last week when everything was working just fine. The only thing I haven't checked is the exhaust but I'll do that tomorrow morning before I leave.

On another bad note, I randomly tested my wastegate actuator and sure enough - it's shot. Now, its vacuum source is right off the turbo so a leak there wouldn't cause a problem. It does suck however because the ATP wastegate actuator is only 1 year old and it's already dead. This would explain why I randomly hit 14 psi a while back. Damn...

I have a thoery on why our internal gates go bad so fast. The diaphram inside the gate is meant to measure boost, but i think because we tap them off the mani, they see vac, so that diaphram is constanly getting forces from both sides. I think this causes premature wear. I know quite a few oem turbo cars use the turbos compressor housing for a boost reference. This way the WG only sees boost like it was designed for. I tapped my turbo and am still testing this but i cant really say for sure but its not an unfounded idea. it makes sense mechanically.

 

[stdntDrvr]

Sweet Deal! unless its a thunder cause im already dealing with that lol

i thought you meant your intake mani

 

[stdntDrvr]

I have a thoery on why our internal gates go bad so fast. The diaphram inside the gate is meant to measure boost, but i think because we tap them off the mani, they see vac, so that diaphram is constanly getting forces from both sides. I think this causes premature wear. I know quite a few oem turbo cars use the turbos compressor housing for a boost reference. This way the WG only sees boost like it was designed for. I tapped my turbo and am still testing this but i cant really say for sure but its not an unfounded idea. it makes sense mechanically.

my turbo is tapped for my wastegate...but it isn't on the car yet, so i can't comment on how it performs...and i have a forge, so i shouldn't have a problem with the wastegate going out on me like people do with the stock unit...since there isn't a 'diaphram' inside of it.

 

[terbow]

i thought you meant your intake mani

no sir. i got the 626 so i have a spare as well (my stock one).

My thunder exhaust mani is cracked badly but i cant really take the car apart at the moment.