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- 2017 Shelby GT350
Very nice mods indeed. I noticed the sweet mods you had before i sold u the mani, i knew you'd keep it up (thumb) Get that beast together, and hit the streets dude....
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
Very nice mods indeed. I noticed the sweet mods you had before i sold u the mani, i knew you'd keep it up (thumb) Get that beast together, and hit the streets dude....
thanks man. i vowed to never take the manifold off since it was such a bastard to install. but i have to replace my actuator and the fourth runner blocks the nuts holding it on. there is definitely always something to do on the car!
did you build the block ?
yessir, the rebuild included k1 rods, arias 8.5:1 pistons, 626 intake mani, custom msp smic (still waiting for it to arrive, currently running the stocker), atp wga, exedy stage 1 clutch, SS AFC (waiting til after breakin to install along with 440's and upping the boost), awr motor mounts all the way around, turbohoses cold pipe w/ hks ssqv (adjustable ftw! traded for my TH cold pipe w/ type s) mam vac block, machined stock flywheel, polished and balanced crank.. i'm sure there is more I'm forgetting. oh and of course the essentials like new main bearings full gasket set etc...
edit: not necessary for the build but I also got amber side markers and painted my fd's. I'll post up pictures tomorrow when its daylight
sounds like it will be a lot of fun. stock turbo or what?
for sure. sounds like a good plan. 15 psi on the stock unit will definitely pull.
I just remembered another part lol.. arp head studs. I just went out and scanned my car and had 3 codes.
P0850 - park/neutral switch input circuit
P0507 - idle control system rpm high
P0140 - o2 sensor ckt no activity (bank 1 sensor 2)
Any suggestions on how to fix the first 2? We've adjusted the idler motor but I think it may be messed up. Idle revs between 1-3k and bounces after a few mins between 1500-2000. Pretty sure my 2nd o2 is shot and that will be easy to replace. No clue on the park/neutral switch thing.
P0850 - park/neutral switch input circuit
P0507 - idle control system rpm high
P0140 - o2 sensor ckt no activity (bank 1 sensor 2)
Any suggestions on how to fix the first 2? We've adjusted the idler motor but I think it may be messed up. Idle revs between 1-3k and bounces after a few mins between 1500-2000. Pretty sure my 2nd o2 is shot and that will be easy to replace. No clue on the park/neutral switch thing.
nope never messed with the screw.. its like i have cruise control the car just always wants to be between 2-3k.. I put it in 4th it will just go on its own at 40.. 5th it will go 50.. its odd. Gonna mess with the throttle cable to see if that helps any, but I dont know how that is making it surge.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
took pictures of it...
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...iewPicture&friendID=177212690&albumId=1638659
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...iewPicture&friendID=177212690&albumId=1638659
I keep getting P0171 (twice today). Anyone else in here with the Perrin fuel rail? The car runs just when when it's moving but the idle is weird at times. About once every minute or so the car will go really lean and want to die before catching itself and the AFRs slowly work their way down to 14.7:1. After it's done this a few times the CEL has appeared. No fuel leaks, line isn't kinked from what I can tell - I don't know what it is. If this keeps up I'm removing the rail no matter how nice it looks!
TheDirtyGoatee
Member
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- 2008 Mazda MX-5 5MT PRHT
I just have the P2006 CEL. I was told it's the VTCS (essentially the butterfly valves in the intake mani). I was told that I could bypass it with a aftermarket mani and just relocate the solenoids. Can anyone verify that? The light goes away for a while then comes back.
Mazdaspeed2oo35
600whp - 600wtq at 30 PSI
i also have a Perrin fuel rail here with 1000cc RC injectors and no problems at all.. running Haltech E6X though... never heard of any problems with these fuel rail before, there are lots of people running them with no issues..
Mazdaspeed2oo35
600whp - 600wtq at 30 PSI
P0171 OBD-II Trouble Code
System Too Lean (Bank 1)
What does that mean?
Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.
Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.
Symptoms:
You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.
Causes:
A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.
Possible Solutions:
Possible solutions include:
In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure
You can always go to these great website for more help and info:
http://www.obd-codes.com/
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^^^ Yep, I know that code all too well. It's just weird as the is just fine while moving and in boost and all and the idle is sound for the most part but it will stumble occasionally and the AFRs just shoot up real lean.
Did you do the install yourself? I'm curious because there was this little blue thing (I forget what it's called) that was inside the stock line - did you reuse this part or just toss it? I reused it but I think it's keeping me from clamping the hose end down all the way. I mean, the connection is tight and there are no leaks from what I can tell but I don't feel confident about it.
Did you do the install yourself? I'm curious because there was this little blue thing (I forget what it's called) that was inside the stock line - did you reuse this part or just toss it? I reused it but I think it's keeping me from clamping the hose end down all the way. I mean, the connection is tight and there are no leaks from what I can tell but I don't feel confident about it.
Is the VTCS plugged in? You can remove VTCS from the stock manifold or go with one that doesn't have it such as the 626 IM but in order to avoid having that CEL you HAVE to leave the solenoid plugged in (I'm not sure if it's the green or white one but either way they should both always be plugged in).
Mazdaspeed2oo35
600whp - 600wtq at 30 PSI
Well my Friend Alejo_NIN were the one who did my entire engine as well as the Perrin Fuel Rail, and later TBK did my Injector upgrade and tuning. so i really have no idea. i saw how Alejo did it, he just unplug the old fuel rail and putted the Perrin, I didnt notice anything special that he could of done to install the Perrin, just a straight bolt on..
