What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
Clean install (and clean part lol). Must be a new OEM; Looks much better than my junkyard one
Clean install (and clean part lol). Must be a new OEM; Looks much better than my junkyard one
yea its new from ken. i went to visit, with the intentions of getting the jyd one, but he put it in my hands while i was there and that did it for me. lol
Im sure it will be much better if used for the proper application. It already owns in teh looks dept and its not even done yet.
that is an old pic but no not yet, my turbohoses will finally ship tomorrow (I ordered awhile ago but when they sent the pipes to be ceramic coated it took the guy a long time to do them. they called and he said he forgot about them)) but would that cause me to still have the turkey by not having maf relocated?
im not sure. i was asking because i am running a bov and bpv (dual setup) and i have zero turkey.
i ran the greddy type rs bov and stock bpv...no turkey
i am now running the greddy type rs bov and boostsciences reflex diverter valve... no turkey
So on a scale of 1-10 what would you rate this mod. 1 being not worth money and time and 10 being yeah, its worth the money. Also would you recommend this as a DIY or Pay. I normally dont do major engine work like this but it cant be that hard Right?
well i only drive it a few times and havent tuned it but for an initial impression..
my car used to spool asap, but then it kinda just fell on its face. its fine for what i did to the car, i want it for daily driving and spunkyness. but i did want some top end.
now, when i step on it, it still spools just as fast but when i look down, im goin 90 lol.
it must be my setup but u cant even tell i ahve a turbo, its just so smooth that the car just scoots. so i think yes its a major change in how the car drives. its setup dependant but the change it makes is significant enough that i can tell its much faster up top.
on a scale of 1-10 id give it a 8.5 its not hard but theres alot to do if your not handy or havent done it before. the hardest part is getting the old gasket off the TB and the damn EGR pipe.
drove it today, dissapointed i still have the turkey with my forge bov. I called and they said i should have the green spring in the bov so i will try that. the guy kinda pissed me off though because he swore up and down the "flutter" or turkey as we call it is not compressor surge and is a standard byproduct of having a turbo. he also said a bypass valve and a blowoff valve were pretty much the same thing, i thought that a bpv recirculated the air and a bov discharged the excess air. other than stalling is there any other harm from running a bov only? i only ask because i am still waiting on my turbohoses harpipes and therefore cannot run a dual setup or do the maf relocate.
theres a difference between turkey and flutter. the valve can flutter still cause of the spring, its just the way the air leaves the valve, thats y u adjust them. the turkey is the surge, its more of a loud wahhhhhhhhhhhh thing. for all intents and purposes the bov and bypass valve are the same. They are a valve that releases pressure from teh charge pipe when the car goes from boost to vac.
the forge valve isnt going to get rid of turkey, the problem is the nipples are too small (insert joke here). u need larger pathways for the air to get out. such as the reflex valve. i had 1" nipples (insert joke here), going to the 1" valve and i had no turkey. The stock sized valve is just too small to remove ALL noise.
if u dont have turkey then its ok, the flutter is fine, its never going to be perfect.
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Terbow is quite right about the nipples being too small. Had Mazda put in a recirc valve with 1" or larger inlet and outlet, there would have been no turkey sound. Eventually when I get around to changing out my IC pipes I'll be putting a nipple in the cold pipe right behind the TB and attaching a recic valve to that. The recirc hose will then be routed to the intake pipe between the MAF and the turbo inlet. That's the proper way to do it if you want to recirc. Terbow is also right about the valve, BOV and BPV are the same thing, the difference is where the air from the valve outlet goes.
Forgot in my previous post, I'll be adding some vinyl to my car tonight as well.
if u do get hard pipes, get the reflex bpv. its really good and ggets rid of the turk. i dont know the minimum size but 1" has worked for me with just the BPV alone. im not into the bov sound so if u do run dual u might not need as big of a valve (since u have 2 valves getting rid of air). so might want to keep the forge since u have it.
if ur not planning on running dual then get a bigger bpv
if ur not planning on running dual then get a bigger bpv
ok here is a stupid question so brace yourselves:
when running dual setup, i know where the bpv goes but i do not know how on the end of the bpv (opposite the hotpipe connection) to connect to the nipple on my sri, the sri manufacturer provided a pretty crappy u shaped pipe but it rattles and i dont want to use it so do i just run a vac hose from the end of the bpv to the nipple?
when running dual setup, i know where the bpv goes but i do not know how on the end of the bpv (opposite the hotpipe connection) to connect to the nipple on my sri, the sri manufacturer provided a pretty crappy u shaped pipe but it rattles and i dont want to use it so do i just run a vac hose from the end of the bpv to the nipple?
i dont understand.
but it goes from nipple on charge pipe to bpv inlet, then bpv outlet to the intake nipple (whatever it may look like).
then u run a vac hose to the vac nipple on the bpv.
right so from the bpv outlet you just run a silicone line to the intake nipple, that is what i thought i just was not sure
well the vac line (Small one), has to go on the manifold or some source with vac. the air intake doesnt have the correct pressures or vac, so u cant put it there.
the big lines that actually divert the air go from the charge pipe to the intake.
