What have you done to your MSP today?

It's great to not have to hear "creeeeeaaaak" as I enter and exit the vehicle or travel over any amount of uneven terrain now. The A/C blows nice and cold. Had high head pressures initially, but found the secondary fan inoperative. Connector was tight. Installed it, head pressures dropped from 55-35 on the low side and vent temperature was 33*F colder than ambient, so I'm happy. Installed a new (used) blower switch and harness. Ordered a few parts to make a new intake setup.
 
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Painted a couple little pieces with metallic clear I made at work, bringing out my inner ricer.


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I got the new msp i picked up running over the weekend.
Today i pulled an awful rats nest of wiring out out of it. The boost afr and oil pressure gauge are all mounted in the pad below the passenger air box. The msp also has a split second. Upgraded side mount ic hard pipes and vibrent exhaust.

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So, for absolutely no obvious reason, as I was letting my car idle outside this afternoon before lunch, the PRV released and dumped my refrigerant charge. Clearly the head pressures were too high, but why... I just cut it off and am too busy in the office this afternoon to get out into the shop to check it out. It's been cooling great, everything has been normal, no issues. Then this. It's either my fans weren't pulling enough volume to cool the condensor or there is a restriction in the system. I flushed it, just to make sure before I reassembled everything and there was absolutely no evidence of debris of any kind. The flush solvent came out the same color it went it. An oil charge was put in. Both fans were operational. So, we'll see I guess.
 
I'm renting my sister's single car garage. With all my spare parts taking up every inch of the floor. After I got the car running my next task but I completed today was add some LED light bulbs and get all my parts off the floor and onto shelves so I have room to work.

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Spent a few minutes with it this morning- my static pressures are 85L and 105H; Operating with spec charge, 85L and 125H. No change in pressures with increased revolutions and clutch engaged. Will cool slightly at road speed with higher RPMs- I'm needing another compressor. I've got three of them, so no big deal. Remove it, flush the system, install another one and go from there. It was great having operational A/C for two days! Checked USPS and it shows my parts intake parts to be on the truck for delivery today. I'd really like to get my windshield replaced, but do I really need to spend that $180!? I've got two guys interested in the car... I was thinking about it last night and I honestly don't know if I'll be able to take $4,000 and hand the car over.
 
Spent a few minutes with it this morning- my static pressures are 85L and 105H; Operating with spec charge, 85L and 125H. No change in pressures with increased revolutions and clutch engaged. Will cool slightly at road speed with higher RPMs- I'm needing another compressor. I've got three of them, so no big deal. Remove it, flush the system, install another one and go from there. It was great having operational A/C for two days! Checked USPS and it shows my parts intake parts to be on the truck for delivery today. I'd really like to get my windshield replaced, but do I really need to spend that $180!? I've got two guys interested in the car... I was thinking about it last night and I honestly don't know if I'll be able to take $4,000 and hand the car over.
I assume you have the vacuum pump for evacuating the system.

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I assume you have the vacuum pump for evacuating the system.

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lol........ Yeah, I have a conventional vacuum pump at home and manifold gauges... And an $6,800 Robinair service machine at the shop... So, I'm covered when it comes to tooling...
 
I recharged it with half charge and checked operated pressures- 90PSI on the low-side which means the compressor isn't sucking (suctioning) because it should have had drastically lower pressures with half of the refrigerant charge. A compressor it is. Reed valves must be ****** in the new one.
 
Car has started bucking and struggling to build rpm after coming to a stop. but will cruise just fine... Weird
 
Replaced my headlamps, lower control arms and got some counter sunk Allen bolts for the engine bay.
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is it possible to change the high pressure fuel filter or should i just grab another filter/pump assembly from a parts car? car has lean codes which could indicate a fuel pressure problem. cant afford a walbro or similar atm as i just baught both o2 sensors.
 
is it possible to change the high pressure fuel filter or should i just grab another filter/pump assembly from a parts car? car has lean codes which could indicate a fuel pressure problem. cant afford a walbro or similar atm as i just baught both o2 sensors.
Yeah you can replace justthe filtter bag

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is it possible to change the high pressure fuel filter or should i just grab another filter/pump assembly from a parts car? car has lean codes which could indicate a fuel pressure problem. cant afford a walbro or similar atm as i just baught both o2 sensors.

Why not pressure test it first?
 
Cause a pressure tester costs half of a new fuel pump heh.
 
For the first time since last October both of my MSPs are running. Replaced the trans in 1574 with a used P5 trans, swapped the LSD into it and installed a stock MSP clutch. AC works and the ebay WGA runs about 12psi so it pulls really well. It has an EGR insufficient flow code though that I can't figure out. Exhaust manifold is leaking from a couple bolt holes in the head being stripped but I don't know if that would cause the EGR code. I had a filter on the EGR pipe and capped the mani but I replaced the EGR pipe and cleaned and replaced the EGR valve to try to fix it but the light still comes on.

Then on 1345 I picked up a 46k mile P5 trans, swapped the LSD and installed it but it was engaging reverse gear with the shifter in neutral. Took the trans out again and opened it up to find the reverse gear wasn't seated all the way, it was sitting on top of the lever that moves it. Installed it correctly and put it all back together and it runs great. Still need to adjust the EBC, then I will install the 440s and change the tune on the AFC. The ABS light is on, checked the code and replaced the sensor it said was the fault and it still comes on. I replaced the axles so I'm guessing it has something to do with the ABS rings on the aftermarket axles.
 
It does have p0171 and p0300. Ive known about leaky injector seals for some time now but the car start out as normal then hit this aweful bog and slow down. The dash lights will flash and the radio will reset. This started after replacing the primary o2 sensor with an bosch oem replacment. For a time i unplugged the secondary as i thought the low readings from it would mess with the tune on a new one. Though reading the live data the new sensor bounces quite erratically from extremely lean to extremely rich.
The only way i could describe it otherwise was when i forgot to reconnect the green ecu wire after taking out the ssafc. It could not make any power at all and had difficulty getting up any hills. I soldered all the wires after that and cant imagine a failure there but i might check it out.

On cruise the car runs as expected but entering a higher load condition seems to bring the lean bog. A pinhole vac leak couldnt cause that degree of power loss.
 
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