SeR_Cyclops
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege
What is the part number for one step colder?
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Geez, I thought they were made to last a lot longer than that. I guess the only ones that are long lasting are the iridiums? In that case, I'll go grab a set tomorrow if I get time.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
The factory heat range V-power plugs are ZFR6F-11 and I know the one step colder plugs had a 7 instead of a 6 so I'm gonna say ZFR7F-11
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
They would probably last longer than that, but for $12 bucks and 10 mins... why not? The MSP doesn't respond well to iridiums. Mine liked the cheap, basic copper plugs best.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Yea I'm with you on a cheap and easy fix. I remember the first time I had them changed, we pulled out iridiums. But hey, I'm not complaining since I consider it a small win. Yea, we are required to run premium fuel and the stock tune spits it right out of the muffler. At least we can cheap out on plugs! LOL.
so do i drive my car like im scared? lol not really scared to crankthe boost up to 10. i just know that both my o2 sensors are either bad or on the way out. would rather fix the problem of the o2 sensors now before they cause problems later.
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
I pulled platnium +2s out of mine after I bought it... you know, those bosch ones that you don't gap? yeah.... previous owner of my car was a MORON.
wiring clusterfu**
decided to use some of the harbor freight wire wrap to redo most of the wiring in the engine bay. plus ended up relocating a bunch of grounds away from the water temp harness. also what's that thing that is usually right next to the water temp harness? also separated the injector harnesses into a separate line. will post progress tomorrow
decided to use some of the harbor freight wire wrap to redo most of the wiring in the engine bay. plus ended up relocating a bunch of grounds away from the water temp harness. also what's that thing that is usually right next to the water temp harness? also separated the injector harnesses into a separate line. will post progress tomorrow
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the one my buddy keeps talking bout is to run the injector triggers under the intake mani and thru the center, but looking at it today, u cant really do it without extenting the wires or like stripping the original looming all the way back to the firewall.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
your running low boost, so yes lol
and I've been running iridiums ever since being turbo, never had a problem
its def possible without extending wires, I tucked all my wires underneath the intake mani a while back, all I had to do was cut the loom and re-wrap the wires.
SeR_Cyclops
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege
can anyone verify this?
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
7 is one step colder than 6, and the ZFR6F-11 is what I ran in my car.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml
Its the internet man... these answers are right at your fingertips.
SeR_Cyclops
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege
Yeah but I was not sure what the stock heat range was. There is also a considerable about of laziness involved also. 
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I was hoping so, looking inside the radiator it looks rust colored. I'm gonna order a new head gasket and get started this weekend. Anybody care to share a complete parts list I need? Mainly need to know which hardware is necessary to replace.
And for plugs, I run the ZFR6F-11s, very happy with them. Although the ZFR6F has a smaller gap closer to what the MSP needs.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Since I have to replace my head gasket now, and i've already redone my wiring harness and tucked and deleted a bunch of sensors, grounds, and wires, I think I want to do this too. What about the wiring for the cam and crank sensors and AC compressor trigger?
SeR_Cyclops
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege
I would get a timing set while I was doing the Head. I would also take it to a machine shop and just have it checked out. We do this at the shop when we do HG from cars we buy at auctions but since you know you have never had it over heated there is really no need for this but in all honesty I would do this but since we do a lot of business at our machinist he would check it out for free.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I don't know of any special list that was made and I browsed the How-To section but the closest I found was for replacing camshafts. I know that you will need some new head bolts since they are a one and done kinda deal. I would think the rest should all be reusable bolts and of course you will want a good supply of liquid gasket or whatever they call it where you live. Don't forget the headgasket
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I don't know of any special list that was made and I browsed the How-To section but the closest I found was for replacing camshafts. I know that you will need some new head bolts since they are a one and done kinda deal. I would think the rest should all be reusable bolts and of course you will want a good supply of liquid gasket or whatever they call it where you live. Don't forget the headgasket
Thanks guys, I was planning on having the head checked out and a valve job done, can't hurt with 113k. I just did the timing belt and tensioner/idler pullies just before it hit 100k so I don't think it needs it again. I doubt the block is warped, I don't want to pull it to make sure it's square. Luckily BrianMP5T posted a very detailed thread that includes basically all the info I need. I will need new head bolts, not sure if I should splurge for ARP or not.
