What have you done to your MSP today?

i don't plan on off roading and the msp isn't that exspensive to insure. AWD takes more hp and weighs more killing mpg's. (that's what i look for in a dd) Plus it doesn't really snow bad enough where i live to really justify having it. If i were building a car to do more than bolt-ons and fun runs I would consider some of the AWD options in the market (other than a red MS6, I just want one).
 
re-threaded.. the 505 intake.. ugh FTL thing has been nothing but work.. must just be mine.. POS.. hmm(mad)

proof:

014-13.jpg

013-12.jpg

011-20.jpg

015-12.jpg
 
I ran a tap down in my 505 before I even started. I always thought people ran taps down in things after they got them and before they started installing them. My steedspeed manifold had a stud broke off in it because of the shop that tried to install it for the person i bought it off of. they didnt clean out some of the coating in the threads and the bolt snapped off.

Note: Always run taps down in parts that have not been installed and that are coated.
 
you would figure there would be a difference between Cleaning the tread which if you read threw the tread were cleaned after powder coating and the complete wrong size.. these were all wrong size i had to drill them threw and redo all of them.. no need for tape at this point in time.. as im not just "bolting on the intake" im doing other things as well.. with getting it Re coated since i burnt the first coating fixing the gaps and changing the throttle body..

the b.s. barb fitting that was supplied was used after giving it a few runs threw with the tap..result... you can see it.. once i drilled threw and actually removed material that's not paint i am removing... i verified with a 1/4 fitting i had laying around to the desired fitment that i wanted.. checked the 1/8th with end plugs since i wont be using any of them.. same thing had to drill out and re thread them..


Note: don't assume...
 
blazinrola80 said:
you would figure there would be a difference between Cleaning the tread which if you read threw the tread were cleaned after powder coating and the complete wrong size.. these were all wrong size i had to drill them threw and redo all of them.. no need for tape at this point in time.. as im not just "bolting on the intake" im doing other things as well.. with getting it Re coated since i burnt the first coating fixing the gaps and changing the throttle body..

the b.s. barb fitting that was supplied was used after giving it a few runs threw with the tap..result... you can see it.. once i drilled threw and actually removed material that's not paint i am removing... i verified with a 1/4 fitting i had laying around to the desired fitment that i wanted.. checked the 1/8th with end plugs since i wont be using any of them.. same thing had to drill out and re thread them..


Note: don't assume...
Click to expand...

I wasn't assuming. I don't know what happened with your manifold but I would have a hard time believing they were completely the wrong size since they were more or less done all at the same time. I'm not saying it is impossible but I just don't see how it would happen unless the shop completely dropped the ball when threading your manifold. BTW what throttle body did you use?
 
yea idk either but they were wrong.. and if you looked in to the ports they were offset with intake plenum.. so no way they ran the taps properly.. its what i had to drill out and then re tap them..

I am using a after market ford tb 4.6 75 mm i have pics posted in my profile.. i re did the flange and match ported it..

i was also threading my perrin rail to block off the FPR port as i don't need it.. and look..

016-10.jpg


Flange came right off .. idk if this has happen be for seams as they are pressed in.. i did what i had to do but i wonder if any one has had a fuel leak issue..
 
finished replacing my water pump and timing belt...hella supertones installed. Next, CS downpipe and maybe an AEM water/meth kit
side note: THIS THREAD HAS OVER A MILLION VIEWS!!! lol
 
I just finished my car. Now I need to install my ARP studs, Forge WGA, and Treadstone vac block.
 
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I just started my car for the first time and it runs like s*** not smooth at all, it doesn't settle down to idle it just runs at about 1500 rpm. I just got done doing the timing belt so i'm guessing I ****** up and jumped a tooth or something. What happens when the timing belt is off a tooth or two? I tried my best to not let the cams or crank move and the marks looked like they were lined up when the crank was at TDC but i've never done a timing belt before so I don't know exactly what to look for and the instructions that came with the kit were complete s***. WTF I just want to drive my ******* car.
 
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high idle could be a mistimed cam, fortunately, these are non-interference engines so it won't blow up.

I would also double check for vacuum leaks.
 
what i do when i time the car, is pull the cyl.1 spark plug and put 2 pretty long 3/8 extensions together into the cyl
then just turn the crank till it comes up, thats TDC, then just slip the belt on and put both cams pointing the line toward each other

obviously thats the quick way to do it, ive done the timing belt 3 times so far, worked perfect each time
 
justanothermp5 said:
what i do when i time the car, is pull the cyl.1 spark plug and put 2 pretty long 3/8 extensions together into the cyl
then just turn the crank till it comes up, thats TDC, then just slip the belt on and put both cams pointing the line toward each other

obviously thats the quick way to do it, ive done the timing belt 3 times so far, worked perfect each time
Click to expand...


the crank should be marked...
 
well im just sayin, i dont feel like goin under the car, checking the alignment, getting back up, checking the cam alignment, and so on
just makes it easier, if u dont think so, cool...just something i do
plus i have a UDP, so the markings arent on the pulley, i dont feel like taking the pulley off every time
 
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