What have you done to your MS3 today?

[clos561]

Dude do you even know what ohms are?

I don't think you should touch car audio for a while bud.

No offense, but its for your own good.

ohm rating does nothing (nothing) nothing! to the frequency response of speakers. Nothing. The T/S parameters, known as thiel/small params., are the main specs necessary to understand what type, and size of box a certain speaker will need.

Ohm ratings are simply how the speaker is wired. There can be a dual voice coil, or single voice coil sub. This choice is yours, usually. You choose it based on what amp you have, and how many speakers you intend to drive. Ohm rating is the load rating that the sub/speaker puts on the AMP. So, if an amp is stable with a 2 ohm load, you can run a single 2 ohm speaker to that amp. OR, because ohm loads can be run in serial or parallel, you can change the load presented to the amp via picking ohm ratings on your speakers and/or how you wire the setup. The goal is to not let the amp run a load it can't handle, but run as low as the amp will allow, to not waste power.

So, point is, unless you know what you are doing, leave it to the pros...OR, learn up on a site like this: http://www.caraudiohelp.com , which will teach you everything.

-Hope this helps!









...And now back to the thread...

Oh, and today, I started to plan my system in my Mazdaspeed3. Plotted the trunk and side panels on the computer, to measure everything.

i know what im doing, 2ohm can hit lower frequencies and thats what i want , i had 2 12' sub's pushing 2000 watts each in my cadilalc and i had the same brand 15's in the old mazda3, loudest speakers ive heard without having the coreect ported box, i kno what im doing ( no offense)
try this site bud.... www.imnotretarded.com

 

[fourthmeal]

Hey "bud", just trying to save you some heartache...

ohhh kaaay...

well. I'll just say this, and let you be on your way with what you "know", and its for your own good. If you don't want to listen to logic, and expertise on the subject of audio (not just me, ask ANY audio moderator), then I can't make you. Ohms, the measurement of impedance, does NOT affect what frequencies a speaker is capable of. It is the impedance of the voice coils in the sub, and there can be either a: single voice coil, or b: dual voice coil. The purpose of the DVC is to allow flexibility in matching up to the correct ohm load that your sub amp needs to run efficiently and safely. A higher load on the amp (lower impedance level) puts more strain on the amp, and going beyond the amp's capabilities can result in overheating, failure, fire, etc. Contrastingly, operating at a higher impedance will result in inefficiency, and a waste of power available. Thats it. If you want to change the frequency response of the speaker, you must a: choose a different speaker (that has different T/S parameters, therefore changing the response in an anechoic chamber test), b: choose a different box configuration (such as 1st order, 2nd order, or 4th order), and c: changing the box's airspace and/or dampening material inside.

Now, to show you what I mean, I've loaded up my WinISD box building tools, and built a couple of boxes for you. I am using a JL Audio 10W3 subwoofer for this test, in a 1.5 cu. ft. sealed box, which will be a test of one 2 ohm sub, a 4 ohm sub, and a 6 ohm, all dual voice coil. As you can see plainly, there is no real difference between the impedance choices when it comes to subs.




and back on topic:
Today I gathered a moderate amount of courage and cut up the factory airbox, using a drill and a jigsaw. And for the very first time in the MS3's life, I heard the turbo spool, whine, and growl just like I love. Also, I heard the BOV "pshhshshhh" for the first time. The performance is not astoundingly different, but it is a bit more responsive, and the top end push keeps going about 500-600 RPM more then stock. No CEL yet, and I pray it doesn't cause one. It shouldn't.

 

[clos561]

ohhh kaaay...

well. I'll just say this, and let you be on your way with what you "know", and its for your own good. If you don't want to listen to logic, and expertise on the subject of audio (not just me, ask ANY audio moderator), then I can't make you. Ohms, the measurement of impedance, does NOT affect what frequencies a speaker is capable of. It is the impedance of the voice coils in the sub, and there can be either a: single voice coil, or b: dual voice coil. The purpose of the DVC is to allow flexibility in matching up to the correct ohm load that your sub amp needs to run efficiently and safely. A higher load on the amp (lower impedance level) puts more strain on the amp, and going beyond the amp's capabilities can result in overheating, failure, fire, etc. Contrastingly, operating at a higher impedance will result in inefficiency, and a waste of power available. Thats it. If you want to change the frequency response of the speaker, you must a: choose a different speaker (that has different T/S parameters, therefore changing the response in an anechoic chamber test), b: choose a different box configuration (such as 1st order, 2nd order, or 4th order), and c: changing the box's airspace and/or dampening material inside.

Now, to show you what I mean, I've loaded up my WinISD box building tools, and built a couple of boxes for you. I am using a JL Audio 10W3 subwoofer for this test, in a 1.5 cu. ft. sealed box, which will be a test of one 2 ohm sub, a 4 ohm sub, and a 6 ohm, all dual voice coil. As you can see plainly, there is no real difference between the impedance choices when it comes to subs.




and back on topic:
Today I gathered a moderate amount of courage and cut up the factory airbox, using a drill and a jigsaw. And for the very first time in the MS3's life, I heard the turbo spool, whine, and growl just like I love. Also, I heard the BOV "pshhshshhh" for the first time. The performance is not astoundingly different, but it is a bit more responsive, and the top end push keeps going about 500-600 RPM more then stock. No CEL yet, and I pray it doesn't cause one. It shouldn't.

im so smart...

 

[fourthmeal]

im done w/ you

I don't happily spend my free time typing useful information (in this case with picture proof) for MY benefit. I'd rather be doing lots of other things. I do them because its Karma, and helping others in a community goes a long way to helping yourself in the long run. I don't expect much in return from you or others, other then you not being a dick about thinking you actually know something about audio (or anything else for that matter, but the focus for now is audio). Bottom line with you spewing your incorrect information all over the boards, a lot of problems will come about. It happens when people who may not be as informed, as experienced, and as outspoken as you will actually listen to what you are saying and take it as TRUTH. When, in fact, it is completely wrong, in-factual, mistakes on your part. If you don't see the damage that can cause, then I've nothing else to say.


Back on topic again: Today (or tonight) while trying out the cut airbox mod at higher speeds, I have come to realize that the MS3 is touchy in the slick stuff. It has rained for the first time in a long time here in Vegas, and that added up to a slick ride from the junk stuck on the road combined with rain. Glad it doesn't snow...I don't know how you guys up north are doin it in this car. My RWD cars before felt more planted, for sure. Hell, my motorcycle feels more planted...lol.

 

[javanc]

Hey 4thmeal thanks for the good info, dont mind that "other guy" cuz his caddy hit mad low yo cuz 2 ohms are the way to go.(poke) Hope your enjoying your car, i can only imagine how nasty LV gets with a touch of rain. Be glad you have the DSC to keep you straight in case of a little spin out.

 

[clos561]

Hey 4thmeal thanks for the good info, dont mind that "other guy" cuz his caddy hit mad low yo cuz 2 ohms are the way to go.(poke) Hope your enjoying your car, i can only imagine how nasty LV gets with a touch of rain. Be glad you have the DSC to keep you straight in case of a little spin out.

i had 1 ohm in my mazda3 04 lava orange, out banged anything that pulled up...i kno my audio....( well really 1/2 ohm because the way its wired)
u could see the windows flexing and whole car shook.

 

[javanc]

Please Lord take little red to a better place

Spare 'im from the humiliation. Oh BTW vaporized DISI fuel will turn back into liquid if the 15s in the back are pounding, the car wont run. Oh yeah 8ohms thats the shitnitz i can play highs so high with that stuff that even the canines cant hear it, .5 ohm aint got nothin on me LOL.

 

[clos561]

Spare 'im from the humiliation. Oh BTW vaporized DISI fuel will turn back into liquid if the 15s in the back are pounding, the car wont run. Oh yeah 8ohms thats the shitnitz i can play highs so high with that stuff that even the canines cant hear it, .5 ohm aint got nothin on me LOL.

im not running that in the car anyway, too heavy 340 oz each magnet and its total of 2subs with huge box, impossible to carry alone

 

[fourthmeal]

(enguard)

Ah, I think I see where you are getting your mis-information. You are believing your ears, and not doing your research. The human ear perceives louder bass tones to be lower then they really are. So, the louder a system is, the more likely people would place it as a low playing system.

Proof? Here's www.wikipedia.org's entry on the subject:

Pitch is the perceived fundamental frequency of a sound. While the actual fundamental frequency can be precisely determined through physical measurement, it may differ from the perceived pitch because of overtones, or partials, in the sound. The human auditory perception system may also have trouble distinguishing frequency differences between notes under certain circumstances....Pitch also depends on the amplitude of the sound, especially at low frequencies. For instance, a low bass note will sound lower in pitch if it is louder. Like other senses, the relative perception of pitch can be fooled, resulting in "audio illusions."

OK, so now I know where you think you are coming from. But, again, you are mis-informed. It is true that, as long as your amp is able to handle the load, that a lower-impedance (ohm rating) will play louder, assuming everything else is equal. So when you are connecting a 2 ohm sub vs. a 4 ohm, that means you'd end up with 3 dB more volume output, provided the amp could handle it. And from 2 ohm to 1 ohm would be 3 dB more as well, which is significant. Of course, and amp rated for a 2 ohm load, that is driving a 1 ohm load will be strained horribly at higher volume levels, and it can easily cause problems. Thats why impedance matching (example: two 12" single voice coil subs @ 4 ohms, parallel connnected to each other, yielding a 2 ohm load on the amp) is so critical for clean, loud power. But, now that you know (with proof) that louder is NOT lower, I hope this helps you in your quest for good, deep sound in your car.

Here is a great site that will get you back on track:

www.bcae1.com

Oh, and personally attacking me with "im so smart" should be registered in every state as a guaranteed backfiring weapon, so don't try to use it, K?

K.

 

[dread]

what is with the flame war? stay on topic and post pictures of your mods, no one wants to read your pissing match.

 

[clos561]

what is with the flame war? stay on topic and post pictures of your mods, no one wants to read your pissing match.

yea fourth meal quit attacking me, i just asked question if anyone knew where i can buy a certain speaker and you begin saying i dont kno what im talking about. please refrain from using such ATTACks against me. i jsut want infirmation on speakers. not what u think is better or right and wrong. i know my audio... so does anyone have a site that has light weight 2ohm voice coil subwoofers for trucks or something....i need light weight

 

[clos561]

i did this to my car but had to put on the stock airbox again. my car was not getting enough air or something. i may have a leak on the joint with the sensor to the stock tube. does anyone know where i cna buy a piece that fits inside the stock air hose and has a place for mounting the sensor and then attaching the airfilter. i had the sensorplugged in but with the picture it wasnt, alot of ppl thought it was that but no. the car was running and when it idles it goes very low and shakes a bit almost shutting off. so i changed back. and return the filter for now.

 

[javanc]

This will continue to be a flame session due to the offending parties age. Dont bother anymore 4thmeal, its hopeless. I guess my snide remarks didnt get noticed as being sarcastic. Better that way, anyways I have a Fosgate 5002 that you can run at 2 ohm, drive on over here and ill give it to ya lol.

 

[clos561]

This will continue to be a flame session due to the offending parties age. Dont bother anymore 4thmeal, its hopeless. I guess my snide remarks didnt get noticed as being sarcastic. Better that way, anyways I have a Fosgate 5002 that you can run at 2 ohm, drive on over here and ill give it to ya lol.[/QUOTE
mail it to me and pay for shipping too.

 

[voiceKoil]

mail it to me and pay for shipping too.

You guys are nuts already lol! As for the intake, Im having the same problem, I had an inverted K&N filter and my buddy said that was the problem, I swapped out with another K&N and its drivability is even worse.........Its when I drive a constant speed, it bogs really bad, and after I take it out of gear and let it drop all the way down it will stale if I let it........ Im looking for a solution aswell, Ive asked other people on here, Im waiting for their info....Ill let you know if I find out...

 

[Kansei]

You guys are nuts already lol! As for the intake, Im having the same problem, I had an inverted K&N filter and my buddy said that was the problem, I swapped out with another K&N and its drivability is even worse.........Its when I drive a constant speed, it bogs really bad, and after I take it out of gear and let it drop all the way down it will stale if I let it........ Im looking for a solution aswell, Ive asked other people on here, Im waiting for their info....Ill let you know if I find out...

I'd go for a dry filter. Does AEM make the DryFlow in oem sizes?

 

[clos561]

You guys are nuts already lol! As for the intake, Im having the same problem, I had an inverted K&N filter and my buddy said that was the problem, I swapped out with another K&N and its drivability is even worse.........Its when I drive a constant speed, it bogs really bad, and after I take it out of gear and let it drop all the way down it will stale if I let it........ Im looking for a solution aswell, Ive asked other people on here, Im waiting for their info....Ill let you know if I find out...

yea let me know if u find something that works man , i tried to change and did the same thing, except i didnt drive it i rev'd and notice the shakiness when it idles and swapped out , i knew it would stall on the road or soemthing , didnt want to mess it up.

 

[Velocifero]

I finally put the Axela badge on the back of my wife's 3. I'll post a pic of it later today if I remember. Next is to install the Simota CAI I got her for Christmas. Aren't I romantic?

 

[clos561]

I finally put the Axela badge on the back of my wife's 3. I'll post a pic of it later today if I remember. Next is to install the Simota CAI I got her for Christmas. Aren't I romantic?

axela? why ive seen alot of ppl putting this on, i dont even kno what it means

 

[Velocifero]

axela? why ive seen alot of ppl putting this on, i dont even kno what it means

just the Japanese badge for the 3. Like the Protege was called the Familia in Japan, 323 in Europe. They all have different names in different regions of the world. kinda fun to make regular people ask what your car is.