What have you done to your MS3 today?

so im the type of guy that loves to tinker with things, so this past week i decided just for S&G's to make a CO2 spray kit for my ETS TMIC. looking at the cost of the professional kits i aimed to build mine for around $100. well today i finished it installed it and gave it a quick test as another nasty thunderstorm is rolling my way. at any rate im very happy with the build and looking forward to seeing some results on my dashhawk. my ending price for the complete build. used 24 oz paint ball tank filled $23. used paintball tank connector with 3000psi hose and one/off valve $19. misc brass fittings $13. 15ft of 300 psi hose $8. 6 ft of 1/4" od alum hose (had to drill holes) for intercooler sprayer $6. DEI CO2 solenoid off of ebay $40. misc wires/connectors and zip ties and switch a couple more bucks but i already had all of that stuff. so all in all i came in just a hair over $100 and it works perfectly with everything hidden from view other than the TMIC sprayer under the hood. spent about 4 hours building/testing/installing. fun little project just for something to do, will post up some results once i get some info.

sounds like a cool project. you should post up a how-to.
 
still kinda working on the whole thing but ill be sure and post some pictures, if it works well enough ill for sure put a how to write up in. right now im trying to understand which read out on my dash hawk will show me air temps after the IC i know it does it.
 
When i replaced the plugs they were truly evil with carbon.
By the way my gas mileage is rising significantly now. i reset when i swapped the plugs.
Carbon is our enemy on these motors i have seen and i am starting to run a maintenance dose of MMo in the tank, but i look forward to pulling the head and inspecting. i might need to resort to a sea foam treatment meself.
How often do you do the HD treatment or are you using the gas tank additive they offer?
thanks
sorry i was responding to the seafoam of meicalnissyen and forgot quote.Oops
 
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Been needing to clean out the egr again so I tackled that today. I also decided I would clean out the egr pipe this time since I didn't do it last time. I also decided while I was in there I would install the catch can that's been sitting in a box in my garage.

I'm glad I decided to do the catch can because when I had the throttle body off, I took a look inside a very very dirty intake manifold. A little bit of oil and a lot bit of oily carbon around the egr pipe inlet. I used up half a can or more of seafoam spray cleaner (spray/soak/brush/repeat) on the egr, egr pipe and intake mani. Scraped half my knuckles off installing the catch can (thanks hominemodi) too.

car - 1
me -0
 
When i replaced the plugs they were truly evil with carbon.
By the way my gas mileage is rising significantly now. i reset when i swapped the plugs.
Carbon is our enemy on these motors i have seen and i am starting to run a maintenance dose of MMo in the tank, but i look forward to pulling the head and inspecting. i might need to resort to a sea foam treatment meself.
How often do you do the HD treatment or are you using the gas tank additive they offer?
thanks
sorry i was responding to the seafoam of meicalnissyen and forgot quote.Oops

Hey Eric,

Since I read some guys post about having literally soaked his valves in seafoam, and still had to physically scrub the carbon off, I don't really believe it does much actual carbon removal just aspirating a can into the mani now and then. but it can't hurt either.
I think a good OCC is proly a good Idea for prevention, but removal...... is a disassembly gig

on that note, what does MMO in the gas tank do, other than lube the FI pump, and bake onto the exhaust valve
 
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I took all my rear emblems off today, prepping them for paint! Going red, I haven't seen that color done yet, on a black ms3!

Not sure if there is sarcasm there or not but i have red emblems on my black ms3, just not good pics to show you how they look.
 
no sarcasm, just haven't seen it done yet, thats all. Do you like how it looks? I think itll be sweet with the rear blinkers red as well.
 
Yea I think it looks great. The front emblem has chipped quite badly but the backs looks good. I have the mazda logo and the mazdaspeed on there, I removed the 3.
 
Bought up the 57Motorsports G07WT wheels with Dunlop Star Specs today. I'm now selling my MSP Racing Harts since I'll be using the wheels for both track and winter and just alternating tires.
 
so, for guys that are cleaning out the EGR's, how hard is this task? Does anyone have a how-to for this? I feel like I need to clean mine out (just rolled over 50k miles). Thanks!
 
I dont think there is technically a proper way to clean it. I think its one of those parts you just replace. Probably says that in the factory repair manual too
 
It's hard to clean, but it can be done. I started by using the HT from another site not to be named, but you can get there from goog. In a nutshell, it'll take you about 20 minutes to get to it and another 15 to get to the egr pipe.

Tools and supplies other than normal stuff are a good carbon dissolving cleaner (I used the seafoam brand, but you can use whatever), various small brass bristled brushes, a bottle of coolant (or a clean receptacle/funnel and hose), egr, egr pipe and throttle body gaskets (you might be able to reuse them, they are metal. I reused the tb and egr pipe ones.) and lots and lots of paper towels.

Quick HT:
Remove intake, battery, battery box and inlet pipe (be careful of the little vac tube there, it's easily broken). Block off your turbo with a paper towel. The egr valve is right behind the tip. It has a small coolant hose attached to it and 2 bolts that hold it in place. When you remove the coolant hose about a quart of coolant (whatever is left in your res tank) will spill out. Make sure you loosen the res tank cap to relieve the vacuum and let the coolant run out in a timely manner. After the coolant runs out, you can remove the two bolts that hold the egr and remove that from the car. If you look at the egr, there is a solenoid on the top held on by 4 phillips head screws. Remove these and you can manually actuate the valve. When you push down on it it is open. If it sticks a little or is hard to push, it's good you are here cleaning it out. Fill it completely with your cleaner and let it sit while you work on removing the egr pipe. You can see the pipe right by the egr valve held on by 2 bolts. It goes to the intake mani just past the TB.

To get access to the TB, you will have to remove the intercooler (or hot pipe depending on your brand of fmic). Remove the intake elbow before the TB and remove the 4 bolts holding the TB onto the IM. Now you can get to the IM side of the egr pipe. I used an adjustable wrench and some pliers to loosen the big bolt. I think it's 22mm and if you have a 22mm open end wrench, that would be better. Loosen this and remove the 2 bolts holding the egr pipe from the egr vavle side. You should be able to remove the whole thing now. Clean off as much gunk as you can with a paper towel. It will probably be greasy on the TB side if you don't have a catch can. Prop the pipe up so you can fill it with your cleaning solution and let that sit while you get back to your egr valve.

Use a combination of brushes/towels and cleaning solution to clean the egr valve in the closed AND open positions. Get as much carbon out as you can. If you push the valve open while turning, you can access all sides of the valve itself. This might take a while. If you have a parts cleaner, great. I used a cardboard boxtop covered in a few layers of paper towels, lol.

While the TB is off, you might look into your IM. You might have a small pool of oil in there from the PCV valve if you do not have a catch can. Also, the inlet for the egr pipe may be dirty. I spent about 45 minutes cleaning out the egr pipe inlet by spraying and brushing and q-tipping. I sprayed from the IM out onto a wad of paper towels.

Cleaning the pipe is just like the valve, just try to get out as much as you can. I cleaned it until the cleaning solution ran slightly clear.

That's it. Clean and replace everything. Took me about 5 hours but I also installed a catch can and had lunch in there.
 
just got back from the track. i swear to god it's almost as good as sex! almost. second time with the nitto NT-05. they are even better now that they are broken in more. very impressed with this tire, they squeal like crazy in the corners but the grip is excellent. very good cost/performance ratio.
 
doing oil and air freshner changes at the dealer, ?

Lolp

i checked it out in the repair manual. All i found was a removal/installation procedure, an audible test while engine cranking, and a resistance test. For any failure it says replace

granted, total replacement in lieu of cleaning is probably better for a dealer-customer situation, meaning cheaper for the customer and less time and liability for the dealer. So i guess for the do-it-yourselfer a cleaning might be a choice, just not so much my choice

i have pulled codes that have been related to egr issues before, but they are so few and far between a simple code clearing was all it needed. Eventually im sure i will be replacing it
 
That's it. Clean and replace everything. Took me about 5 hours but I also installed a catch can and had lunch in there.

Well, that sounds completely sanitary.













lol j/k, thank you for the write up. I will attempt this soon just for peace of mind. Thanks!!
 

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