What have you done to your Miata today?
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
took off the star specs and put on the old fuzion zri's that came with the car... GOOD GOD! the star specs really ARE nice tires compared to the cheapo fuzions! Soooo much better grip! i'll have to see how they'll do on my protege! lol
they are much much meater too!
fuzion = 205/40 star specs = 215/45
they are much much meater too!
fuzion = 205/40 star specs = 215/45
Started it for the first time since fall after doing a timing belt and water pump R&R and installing a new MS pigtail. Some of the MS wiring got a little derp'd up, but by midnight it was sorted out and running quite nicely. I think the PO had tried to advance exhaust cam timing by 1 tooth, it seems to start super easy with original timing restored.
A couple questions to the crowd:
1) Best place to mount a knock sensor on a B6 engine? I can't find a great place. Right now I've got it mounted on the intake manifold as it has a solid connection to the block, but I don't think it's ideal. I got this knock sensor kit.
2) Have any turbo Miata guys seen appreciable/noticable gains from retarding exhaust cam timing 1 tooth on the original wheel?
A couple questions to the crowd:
1) Best place to mount a knock sensor on a B6 engine? I can't find a great place. Right now I've got it mounted on the intake manifold as it has a solid connection to the block, but I don't think it's ideal. I got this knock sensor kit.
2) Have any turbo Miata guys seen appreciable/noticable gains from retarding exhaust cam timing 1 tooth on the original wheel?
took the cheap way out on the tune for the car
I get a knock in the upper RPM's under boost, but the car retards itself after it knocks so it doesn't do it again, but if i don't perform a store on the ECU, it keeps the previous tune when i restart the car the next time
Best option is to log the numbers before doing a run, run it, and check to see what the car has changed to prevent the knock next time (which is why my dyno numbers were lower the second run)
But, i'll be doing a full retune once I install the wideband, so i let the car do the corrections itself to stop the knock (but the ECU takes too much away, robbing some power, but it no longer knocks)
So i've gotta get the wideband in and tune so i can get my power back.
Also, i've got a rattling/ticking sound when i am not in boost but under load from the motor (mainly audible in 5th gear low rpms when i step on the gas) Did I already toast my motor? Or is it something hopefully fixable?
I get a knock in the upper RPM's under boost, but the car retards itself after it knocks so it doesn't do it again, but if i don't perform a store on the ECU, it keeps the previous tune when i restart the car the next time
Best option is to log the numbers before doing a run, run it, and check to see what the car has changed to prevent the knock next time (which is why my dyno numbers were lower the second run)
But, i'll be doing a full retune once I install the wideband, so i let the car do the corrections itself to stop the knock (but the ECU takes too much away, robbing some power, but it no longer knocks)
So i've gotta get the wideband in and tune so i can get my power back.
Also, i've got a rattling/ticking sound when i am not in boost but under load from the motor (mainly audible in 5th gear low rpms when i step on the gas) Did I already toast my motor? Or is it something hopefully fixable?
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
well, hit a pot hole mile from my house and bent my new/second rim...great, well now i'll have a rim to rotate as i bend one every yr it seems...of to rim and wheel works for the repair.....
well, hit a pot hole mile from my house and bent my new/second rim...great, well now i'll have a rim to rotate as i bend one every yr it seems...of to rim and wheel works for the repair.....
D'oh!!!! That sucks man. That's why 3 of my RH's are bent, I'm sure. Gives me more incentive to go to 15's.
(2thumbs)princess peach
Member
- :
- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
damn... I try to avoid pot holes at all costs, sometimes you can't help it
Except that to remove the knock, you're pulling timing. The wideband won't really help you tune timing at all. For that you need a dyno and someone who knows what they're doing.
Try changing your oil. It's an NA, the HLAs make all kinds of noise.
^ This!
What weight oil do you use? I switched from 10W-30 to 5W-30 and the HLA tick went away. It comes back after about 5k miles if I let the oil change go that long.
I've heard of other people using seafoam and completely making the HLA tick go away. I've never personally used seafoam though.
It's got 10/40 in it now (with one bottle of 10/30 used to top off)
I got a case of 10/30 from the Rolex waiting to go in, but i guess i could see if a local autoparts store will swap it out for some 5/30
BUT, it doesn't sound like lifter tick, that's a different sound, i have heard that when the oil ended up being low. i'll try to get a video but it'll be from an iphone so you won't hear much
I got a case of 10/30 from the Rolex waiting to go in, but i guess i could see if a local autoparts store will swap it out for some 5/30
BUT, it doesn't sound like lifter tick, that's a different sound, i have heard that when the oil ended up being low. i'll try to get a video but it'll be from an iphone so you won't hear much
i appreciate the guesses
I'm due for an oil change so i'll hit that first and see if it makes a difference.
Also, i've a little sheet of aluminumum to use as my DIN blanking plate/gauge mounting plate
So oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp, boost, and wideband will be there and the stereo headunit will be no more, since i dont listen to the radio
I'm due for an oil change so i'll hit that first and see if it makes a difference.
Also, i've a little sheet of aluminumum to use as my DIN blanking plate/gauge mounting plate
So oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp, boost, and wideband will be there and the stereo headunit will be no more, since i dont listen to the radio
Oh I know, but I need to retune anyways and I figure once I go to tune, why not do it all?
And from what I've been reading the wide band should let me eeek out every last hp
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