What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

Started to install my boost gauge last night. I punched a few wires through the firewall and up through the defrost vent to mount in my Block8head pod (love that thing). If I can get out of work with some daylight left tonight I'll try to get the vac tube spliced in and finish wiring.
 
I would recommend a silicone reducer with t-bolt clamps instead of resusing that stock coupler. We are talking about the speedie6 inlet right?
Yes the speedie6. Does anyone sell a silicone reducer in black? It's still under warranty, and if I take it in I'd rather just have it look factory then have to put the stock one back on. I didn't see any t-bolts at the parts stores I went to. I need to check to make sure everything is still tight.*Pic courtesy of AWDRacer* The clamp on the right was stripped and completely loose when I checked it.
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hadnt updated with my last few "things i've done"...

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- Jbarone Short Shifter Plate (03/13/10)
- Jbarone Shifter Bushings (03/13/10)
- Circuit Sports 250cc Oil Catch Can - topmount (03/13/10)
- Flex Innovations (MS6 Prototype) Grounding Kit (03/06/10)

waiting on fitment changes for the Grounding Kit. still adjusting to the SSP, very quality pieces, as well as bushings. has gunk in it already, lol @ topmount cause i didnt expect to see a thing for another few months... weird. the PCV located one would make sense, but uh, VC to intake... gunk already, huh?!

can barely see the SSP down there under the intake, black plate. errything else is obvious.
oh and i finally think i know what my passenger side suspension "clunk" noise is... a buddy mentioned end links, they could be loose... makes sense since it only clunks when that side is stressed under bumps/ramps/weight. checking this week.
 
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Yes the speedie6. Does anyone sell a silicone reducer in black? It's still under warranty, and if I take it in I'd rather just have it look factory then have to put the stock one back on. I didn't see any t-bolts at the parts stores I went to. I need to check to make sure everything is still tight.*Pic courtesy of AWDRacer* The clamp on the right was stripped and completely loose when I checked it.

Ebay has them. I got a 2"-2.25" reducer...I believe that was the size. You have to cut about an inch and a half of the speedie6 pipe so your not hitting the battery.

Napa sells the t-bolt clamps. Just ask for 2 since you need one connected to the turbo and on for the pipe itself. 2" t-bolt clamps are hard to find though.
 
your catch can is hooked up incorrectly, it must be hooked up to the PCV valve on our cars to work properly unless it is and i cant see it.. but the way you got it setup you wont catch much oil if any at all. other then that everything looks good.
 
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Ebay has them. I got a 2"-2.25" reducer...I believe that was the size. You have to cut about an inch and a half of the speedie6 pipe so your not hitting the battery.

Napa sells the t-bolt clamps. Just ask for 2 since you need one connected to the turbo and on for the pipe itself. 2" t-bolt clamps are hard to find though.

Awesome, Ill be checking ebay then. Thanks.
 
your catch can is hooked up incorrectly, it must be hooked up to the PCV valve on our cars to work properly unless it is and i cant see it.. but the way you got it setup you wont catch much oil if any at all. other then that everything looks good.

There is some debate on this. The way batou079 has it hooked up isn't necessarily "incorrect", it isn't the most effective way of retrieving oil from the PCV system. Honestly, to catch the most crap being recirculated back into the engine, you should have a can at both points. BoostedSpd6 is correct though with his intent that you will catch significantly more gunk by hooking the can up to the PCV valve.
 
Just went out in my car for break and my radio isnt working. It was working 2 hours prior. The power light on the amp isnt coming on but everything is hooked up. Sub amp is power and has a slight bit of bass. wtf
 
There is some debate on this. The way batou079 has it hooked up isn't necessarily "incorrect", it isn't the most effective way of retrieving oil from the PCV system. Honestly, to catch the most crap being recirculated back into the engine, you should have a can at both points. BoostedSpd6 is correct though with his intent that you will catch significantly more gunk by hooking the can up to the PCV valve.

oh correct, this is the first of 2 OCCs.

the first was a cheap $30 can that there was no way in hell i was using it for the PCV valve connection itself, that would need to be 350cc or bigger imho. This one is just to catch what else gets buy and help keep the intake a little less greased up in the long run...

end one should be aruond in a few months... (wiggle)
 
Ebay has them. I got a 2"-2.25" reducer...I believe that was the size. You have to cut about an inch and a half of the speedie6 pipe so your not hitting the battery.

Napa sells the t-bolt clamps. Just ask for 2 since you need one connected to the turbo and on for the pipe itself. 2" t-bolt clamps are hard to find though.

Thanks, I'm going to look into this. Do you have a pic of the one you got?

I got the boost gauge finished last night (Prosport Performance in Block8head pod). It powers up and does the sweep, and appears to be functioning mostly correctly, but doesn't do a shut-down sweep, and seems to peak at about 14 PSI. I'm thinking either A) I haven't wired the power correctly which could possibly cause both issues, or B) this gauge doesn't have a power-off sweep and I have a boost leak somewhere. With just the ACC power on and the engine off, the gauge reads about -1, so it seems like it is calibrated a little off too.

So I'll try Qwik's reducer trick, and look for some more solid T-bolt clamps while I'm at it.

A few quick pics... don't mind the protective sticker I hadn't removed yet, or the dust and dirty winter mats:

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where can i get one of those gauges? i know i can order the actual gauge off of prosports website but my question is where i can get the Block8head pod??
 
It's on the other forum, which I'm not sure if I can link to or not. If you Google "block8head i am making and selling gauge pods" it should be right there. He has done a ton of these things, and was very easy to deal with.
 
the other thing is once i have the gauge pod and gauge i dont think i would know how to install it. id assume the gauge comes with the wiring? does anyone know if its an easy install? my guess is i will probably end up paying a shop do this for me.
 
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