What have you done to your CX-5 today?

[ADS-B]

Today I decided to clean the engine bay. Never done it before but after few YouTube instructions and some careless(!) considerations, I went for it. I only spent, maybe 15-20 minutes with the cleaning process. but I am satisfied with the result. The more time you allocate and the more patience you have, the better the engine will look.

I used an electric hand spray pump, a cleaner called P21S and a brush. Rinsed at the end with water using a hose with low pressure and a shower like nozzle. Before the start of the process I bagged the alternator, removed the car battery and bagged the terminals and the ECU connector. I've seen some videos where they did not remove the battery at all, left it all connected. I am glad that I took the battery off because I found that the battery tray has no drain, so the water was accumulating on the tray. I would not want to have a battery sitting in water. With the engine off and hot (I did not want to wait few hours for the engine to cool off), started to spray the cleaner all over the bay and the engine block. Let it soak for 5 minutes, then used the brush to clean in tight spaces and at the end tried to rinse everything really good. Used some rags to wipe of the water and that's it.

When done, went for a ride to the supermarket to help drying the water. While driving I felt an odor inside the car, probably the chemical residue getting hot from the engine and burning which makes me thinking that I should have spent a little more time on rinsing. In the end, I am satisfied with the results and next time I'll try to clean it better.

Cleaner used: P21S 13001R Auto Wash Refill, 1000 ml, Clear, 33.8 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)

Spray pump used: Electric Foam Sprayer Car Wash, 60PSI

Brush: Car Detailing Brush Kit

 

[N7turbo]

Before the start of the process I bagged the alternator, removed the car battery and bagged the terminals and the ECU connector.

I don't think this is necessary on modern cars. Pros clean hundreds of engine bays per year and never have an issue, and they are using pressure washers.

Good tip about the battery tray, though. That would be a reason to remove the battery. I'm surprised there isn't better drainage there.

 

[N7turbo]

Here are the brushes I use:

Soft Grip Wheel and Body Brush | The Rag Company

EZ Detail Brush Big (Choose Color)

For cleaner I just use my car soap with a squirt of Dawn Ultra mixed in.

 

[ADS-B]

Here are the brushes I use:

Soft Grip Wheel and Body Brush | The Rag Company

EZ Detail Brush Big (Choose Color)

For cleaner I just use my car soap with a squirt of Dawn Ultra mixed in.

That's good stuff. Next time I'll try to get some of these. On the connectors matter, the modern cars have seal tight connector and water should not make contact with the pins. But high pressure water, all the instructions I've read said no to high pressure. And it makes sense to me, considering that it might be something loose in there, maybe a weak connector, maybe a loose wire or something else and I would not want to make any damages with high pressure. Definitely cover the alternator, I'd say.

 

[N7turbo]

Everything I've seen about modern cars tells me that the alternator is designed to handle being wet, no problem. Not saying you can submerge it while driving...that is probably different. But there is no need to cover it for a wash.

But you need to really rinse the engine thoroughly to not leave cleaner residue behind.

I would recommend a strong leaf blower to blast the water out of the engine. Think about spark plug holes, etc.

This video isn't bad:

 

[GFrosty]

Today I decided to clean the engine bay. Never done it before but ...

Looks pretty good.

Funny, though, how many little nooks and crannies there are in the engine bay, what with all the hoses, cables and whatnot. Can take several hours to go through everything, even a second go at it once the initial crud's gone.

It's been awhile since I last did mine. High time to get to it. Myself, I've used the BlackFire Super Degreaser product. Full strength, it gets everything, but diluted it can also make quick work of recent deposits.

Haven't used the P21S product previously, but many have. Once my BlackFire stash is gone, I might well pick up a jug of the P21S stuff.

Like you, I try to be a bit cautious about water in the engine bay. Elbow grease, with a 'spritzer' type cleaning bottle, and time, followed by another 'spritzer' bottle of water for the rinse, does pretty well.

Many put on a "dressing" coating on the cleaned bits, after all the cleaning and rinsing is done. Have yet to do that, on my own vehicles.

Wipey, wipey, wipey ...

 

[gtbigup]

Got some 255/50/19 RFT installed

 

[7eregrine]

I clean my engine bay every year on all my cars. I use nothing more then water and some brushes.
Might take a bit longer, but I enjoy it.
Haven't done Betty the Mazda yet, but soon.

 

[N7turbo]

Cleaned her up.

 

[yieldchase]

Got some Michelin CrossClimate2 tires installed.
Ordered some rear pads (AKEBONO ACT1846) and rotors (BREMBO 08C42511 (08.C425.11)).

finally got around to 1/2 installing them...
Got driver side done yesterday
Also, glad I did the breaks as I found my sway bar link kit undone ... added a new nut and we are good.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Today I decided to clean the engine bay. Never done it before but after few YouTube instructions and some careless(!) considerations, I went for it. I only spent, maybe 15-20 minutes with the cleaning process. but I am satisfied with the result. The more time you allocate and the more patience you have, the better the engine will look. I used an electric hand spray pump, a cleaner called P21S and a brush. Rinsed at the end with water using a hose with low pressure and a shower like nozzle. Before the start of the process I bagged the alternator, removed the car battery and bagged the terminals and the ECU connector. I've seen some videos where they did not remove the battery at all, left it all connected. I am glad that I took the battery off because I found that the battery tray has no drain, so the water was accumulating on the tray. I would not want to have a battery sitting in water. With the engine off and hot (I did not want to wait few hours for the engine to cool off), started to spray the cleaner all over the bay and the engine block. Let it soak for 5 minutes, then used the brush to clean in tight spaces and at the end tried to rinse everything really good. Used some rags to wipe of the water and that's it. When done, went for a ride to the supermarket to help drying the water. While driving I felt an odor inside the car, probably the chemical residue getting hot from the engine and burning which makes me thinking that I should have spent a little more time on rinsing. In the end, I am satisfied with the results and next time I'll try to clean it better.

Cleaner used: P21S 13001R Auto Wash Refill, 1000 ml, Clear, 33.8 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)

Spray pump used: Electric Foam Sprayer Car Wash, 60PSI

Brush: Car Detailing Brush Kit

You sprayed cold water on a hot engine? Not something that I would recommend doing.

Warm engine, yes. Hot engine, no. No need to take the chance of messing something up.

Did the cleaner that you sprayed on sizzle when spraying it onto the hot bits like the exhaust?

Another possible issue with cold water on a hot engine is that as the engine cools from the water, the water can get sucked into areas where you do NOT want water to be sucked into.

YMMV

 

[ADS-B]

Cold is relative. On a hot, humid summer day in Houston, nothing is cold.

 

[N7turbo]

Cold is relative. On a hot, humid summer day in Houston, nothing is cold.

Every public building I went into was cold in Houston.

 

[ADS-B]

Every public building I went into was cold in Houston.

Well, I get that. The water from the garden hose wasn’t cold, not enough to mess with the engine. And you’d have to pour a lot of cold water on that engine to mess it up, to crack the engine or something. With low pressure, most of the water was evaporating rather quick.

 

[N7turbo]

Just brought back some memories from my Houston trip, that's all

 

[N7turbo]

Cleaned her up.

View attachment 337109

Meanest looking egg on wheels around these parts...

 

[yieldchase]

finally got around to 1/2 installing them...
Got driver side done yesterday
Also, glad I did the breaks as I found my sway bar link kit undone ... added a new nut and we are good.

Rear pads and rotors installed

Found out that one of the caliper slider pin boots was off and not sealing. Thus stuff got into the slider hole, and ate the guide pin rubber. Ran to local parts store and got aftermarket rubber ... cleaned everything and put it all together just so I can move but I don't like how it sits ... a bit too tight from what I can tell.

I think I need new guide pins and rubber hardware.

Does anyone know the part numbers for 13,14,15? or ... do I have to buy the entire bracket and it will come with it all?

Thanks!

EDIT:
For anyone wondering in the future -- found that it says on Mazda's part store :

Notes: PARTS: Part included with caliper assembly.

So... it seems that one needs the bracket to get the pins.

 

[HyFlyer]

I think I need new guide pins and rubber hardware.

All I see with the copy-cat Mazda parts storefronts is the entire assembly (12).

If you like some aftermarket Raybestos you could get them from your favorite online retailer ... RockAuto, Amazon, Walmart etc or select local brick-n-mortar stores

H18240A hardware kit (Walmart)

H15257 caliper pins (Walmart)

I've used Raybestos brake parts on all of our vehicles for many years with good results

 

[yieldchase]

All I see with the copy-cat Mazda parts storefronts is the entire assembly (12).

If you like some aftermarket Raybestos you could get them from your favorite online retailer ... RockAuto, Amazon, Walmart etc or select local brick-n-mortar stores

H18240A hardware kit (Walmart)

H15257 caliper pins (Walmart)

I've used Raybestos brake parts on all of our vehicles for many years with good results

Thanks for the info on Raybestos hardware!

This is the kit I got in local store for the missing rubber - Carlson Disc Hardware Kit #13717

I found the rubber for the pin a bit in the thicker side when placed on the original pin. Maybe if I bought the new caliper pins as well it would have fit better

 

[GFrosty]

Bought one of those years ago. Used it one time. lol

Though, with more and more people failing to carry jump cables, it's one of those "insurance" items for many. Could have done one of the CAT brand AGM units, for a bit more $green, but it's about 30x the size. Lugging that beast around would probably get me a discount at the gym.

We makes our choices and takes our chances, don't we, whichever choices we make.