Whoa, sm1ke. What a great write-up. Exactly what I needed. Problem is... I added everything to my Amazon cart and the total $ almost made me poop my pants lol. As a starter, what products should I start with? I need to first research if car washing in my driveway is going to be permissible by HOA. They b**** about everything. So I'm thinking 303 aerospace and may be something for the tires/wheels to begin with.
Just so I understand - is this the correct order - foam spray (non contact) > contact wash > clay bar > polish/wax?
Also thanks to everyone else for the recs. Foam cannons look fun to just play with hahah
A couple of questions too...
What is the difference between the polish/wax products you mentioned and the spray-on sealants/waxes?
When do you use the detailing sprays?
For interior detailing, can you use 303 aerospace protectant on the piano black stuff?
What about the leather seats?
Would I need to get separate leather cleaner/conditioner?
What the heck is a waterless wash?
Regarding pressure washers... Don't these actually cause damage to the paintwork/protections/films on the car? I have a full adult sized pressure washer as well as one 300 psi one I think.
While I'm at it... I also want to ask about clear bra/ppf... What do these options offer more on top of just cleaning/claying/waxing/sealing? It's crazy expensive for me to even consider on top of what I've already spent.
Sorry for my cluelessness guys! Thanks!
LOL, yeah I didn't buy everything in one shot, just added to the shelf in the garage a bit at a time. To start, I would definitely clear driveway washing with the HOA first. Until you are cleared, I'd pick up some 303 - you can use it for the interior, and I also like using it as a tire and trim dressing too. You'd just spray it onto an old rag and then wipe it onto the tire or black plastic trim (but not the gloss black panels between the windows).
Just so I understand - is this the correct order - foam spray (non contact) > contact wash > clay bar > polish/wax?
IMO, yep, this is the correct order. Something I like to do is wipe the residue off after clay barring a section, just so that the residue doesn't dry on the panel.
What is the difference between the polish/wax products you mentioned and the spray-on sealants/waxes?
So I need to clarify a bit here. The product I mentioned in the thread I linked is an "all-in-one" type of product that has some polishing capability, and also leaves protection behind like a wax. Typically people will buy a polishing product first, apply it and wipe it clean, then apply a wax or sealant to protect the finish. Also, polish isn't really necessary if your car's paint doesn't need correction, or if you just want to protect the paint from UV damage. Have a look at this pic:
If your paint looks like the left side, there's no need to polish, and you can skip to applying wax for protection.
When do you use the detailing sprays?
Detailing sprays are typically used in between your normal car washes. Things like bird poop, fingerprints, bug guts, or anything that would require spot cleaning on the exterior. You would take your detailing spray and a microfiber cloth, then spray the spot to be cleaned. Spray the microfiber once or twice, then gently wipe away the dirt. The detailing spray acts as a lubricant, and helps prevent hardened dirt from scratching the paint when you wipe it away.
Always clean bird poop and bug guts off the car as soon as you can. The organics in those can etch away at unprotected paint and cause chemical stains that are hard to remove.
For interior detailing, can you use 303 aerospace protectant on the piano black stuff?
I do, but I try not to touch the piano black stuff as much as possible. Piano black is the bane of my existence. It will scratch with even the softest microfiber towel and the gentlest touch. Sometimes wiping the area clean can't be helped, especially when other people drive my car and spill Coke on the shifter panel - when that happens, I use 303 or a detailing spray and the softest microfiber I have.
What about the leather seats?
I use 303 for the leather seats as well, but only as protection. To clean my napa leather seats, I've just used warm soapy water and a microfiber towel. Others have had great experiences with leather cleaners from brands like Zaino and CarPro.
Would I need to get separate leather cleaner/conditioner?
You can.. I have different leather, so I don't use any, but Leatherique and Zaino come highly recommended from what I've read. There are quite a few other options as well, and on top of that, there are products that provide leather protection as well, like CarPro CQuartz Leather. Personally, on previous cars, I've gotten by just fine with an over the counter leather cleaner/conditioner from Meguiar's.
What the heck is a waterless wash?
I like to call this the lazy person's car wash, aka my favourite kind
Basically, it's like doing a spot cleaning with a detailing spray, only you're doing the whole car with a waterless wash solution. Usually I'll do a waterless wash if the car is just dusty, or if the car happened to sit out in the rain and now has some water spots. But if the car is driven in the rain, or its got bits of mud or dirt caked on, I'll give it a full contact wash instead.
Regarding pressure washers... Don't these actually cause damage to the paintwork/protections/films on the car? I have a full adult sized pressure washer as well as one 300 psi one I think.
IMO it depends on the condition of the paint and how the equipment is used. I keep the nozzle of my 1800 psi pressure washer at least a foot or two away from the paint at all times. I have PPF on the front 1/4 of the car and a couple of vinyl stickers on one of my windows and haven't had any issues using a pressure washer yet.
While I'm at it... I also want to ask about clear bra/ppf... What do these options offer more on top of just cleaning/claying/waxing/sealing?
PPF offers more physical protection, on top of UV protection. It will protect the paint from things like rock chips, minor bumps and scrapes much, much better than a wax or sealant, which is more of a UV and chemical protector. Partial hood and fenders, plus full bumper and side mirror caps would have cost me about $750-$1000 if I had been the one to pay for it. Mazda paint is on the softer side, which means that it is more prone to rock chips than some others, but it will also depend on how you drive and where you drive. If you drive on the highway, I would definitely recommend a clear bra/PPF for at least the hood and the front bumper.
