ok, my wife bought a 08 mazda3 5door touring edition. she noticed that when cold it will hisitate between 2-3k (feels like flat spots in the tires) as soon as it would hit 3k, it takes off like a 2stroke hitting it powerband. also, it only will do this under partial throttle, if you hardly give it any throttle it wont do it, neither if you put it to the floor. had it back to the dealer at 500 miles and they said they could not find anything wrong and to give it another 500 miles. so anyone have any ideas? it only does it when cold, if you let it run for 5 minutes before driving, it will be fine.
weird hesitation when cold
- Thread starter byohndspeed
- Start date
ok before you ask, it is bone stock nothing done.
knowledge007
Banned
Maybe, if it was the purge valve you would have a CEL. You might want to check your hoses and clamps. Make sure everything is tight. Might have a n air leak somewhere... But you don't have any CEL's right?
nope no cell's. and this purge valve would be where?
knowledge007
Banned
If you don't have a CEL then its not the purge valve. And plus you would be able to get to it...
Thats not necessarily true. I had hesitation, choking, and sputtering issues with cold start up for the first 6 months I owned the car(since April), but it was summer in NC.... When it turned cold here a couple weeks ago, it got even worse, and finally threw a 2006 code, like three mornings in a row.
But despite having the recall... I still have issues with startup. I just dont throw codes anymore. Who knows.... Ovellems3 had two issues... the swirl valve and his pump I believe.
I had no cel with this cold start issue intill it got so bad it stalled in the morning and took sometimes 3-4 cranks to get it to idle, at the same time I got this cel(p2187) and a (p0300) cel. after that I started to have a very bad hesitation problem where at 3000rpm it felt like my car didnt want to boost.
long storey short, I always had this cold start issue and the dealer could never fix it, they said come back when it happens all the time.
I bought a dashhawk so I could read the codes, found p2187 and searched and found out that all mazda 3's have this problem, I decided to go buy 1 from the parts department at the dealership, installed it in 2 minutes and didnt have a cold start problem since but after installing it I still had this (p0300) and a boost problem.
The dashhawk also showed my high pressure fuel pump at 70psi at idle when it should be 400psi, I showed the dealer they replaced my pump and then it fixed my boosting problem.
I'd bet its the purge valve.
long storey short, I always had this cold start issue and the dealer could never fix it, they said come back when it happens all the time.
I bought a dashhawk so I could read the codes, found p2187 and searched and found out that all mazda 3's have this problem, I decided to go buy 1 from the parts department at the dealership, installed it in 2 minutes and didnt have a cold start problem since but after installing it I still had this (p0300) and a boost problem.
The dashhawk also showed my high pressure fuel pump at 70psi at idle when it should be 400psi, I showed the dealer they replaced my pump and then it fixed my boosting problem.
I'd bet its the purge valve.
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- 2021 3 AWD 2.5T
I wouldnt suggesting being hard on the car until its fully warmed up anyway, but thats just me.. Now if its like this when its cold out, not only when the engine itself is cold.. Then I would think something else....
she is not beeing hard on car when this happens. if you jump on it, its fine, if you just touch the peddle to go, it;s fine. its only when at average driving it does it. it's hard to notice in 1st gear, but when you hit second and give some throttle, from 2-3k it feals just like having flat spots on your tires, then when it hits 3k, takes off like a rocket even though you havent given it any more throttle.
goldwing2000
OG Mazda Mafia
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- 2004 Mazda3s Hatch; 346,000 mi (sold)
2024 CX-5 CE; 7,500 mi (so far)
It's actually normal. A feature, even.
There's a temperature and RPM-dependent system (VLIM) that opens and closes a valve to change the length of the intake runners to help fuel atomization when it's cold. Once it warms up, the system is inactive. If you keep it below a certain RPM (I think 2600 or so), the system is inactive.
Or was it the VTCS system? Hmmm... well, one of the two. Either way, it's a normal condition.
If you're not having any other issues (CEL, hard starts, rough idle, etc), then there is nothing wrong with your car.
There's a temperature and RPM-dependent system (VLIM) that opens and closes a valve to change the length of the intake runners to help fuel atomization when it's cold. Once it warms up, the system is inactive. If you keep it below a certain RPM (I think 2600 or so), the system is inactive.
Or was it the VTCS system? Hmmm... well, one of the two. Either way, it's a normal condition.
If you're not having any other issues (CEL, hard starts, rough idle, etc), then there is nothing wrong with your car.
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I want to bump this thread for advice on my car.
Tonight I threw the p0300 code(random cylinder misfire). First time for that. My cold starts have been as bad as ever. The recall "fix" did nothing. I feel that the purge valve is going to have to be replaced again, if it ever was to begin with, who knows. My concern now is that I have the same issues with my fuel pump AND purge valve that Ovillems3 had.
His issues with the p0300 code were only eliminated with a new fuel pump.
Surprisingly... despite how horrendous my car runs for the first 5 minutes every morning, I hadnt thrown any codes. Ive been waiting for one before I took it in for another "fix" at the dealer. I dont trust my dealers ability to diagnose or fix damn near anything so far. At least a code forces them to admit there may be a problem.
Any of you gurus have any thoughts on this? Anybody still having problems even after having the car in, for the coldstart recall?
Tonight I threw the p0300 code(random cylinder misfire). First time for that. My cold starts have been as bad as ever. The recall "fix" did nothing. I feel that the purge valve is going to have to be replaced again, if it ever was to begin with, who knows. My concern now is that I have the same issues with my fuel pump AND purge valve that Ovillems3 had.
His issues with the p0300 code were only eliminated with a new fuel pump.
Surprisingly... despite how horrendous my car runs for the first 5 minutes every morning, I hadnt thrown any codes. Ive been waiting for one before I took it in for another "fix" at the dealer. I dont trust my dealers ability to diagnose or fix damn near anything so far. At least a code forces them to admit there may be a problem.
Any of you gurus have any thoughts on this? Anybody still having problems even after having the car in, for the coldstart recall?
speed3wannabe
Member
Bump because I have the same problem when my car is cold too.
I guess this is one more reason to get a CPE or PG fuel pump.
I guess this is one more reason to get a CPE or PG fuel pump.
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- 07 Speed3, Cosmic Blue
He and I discussed this issue awhile back. Mine is STILL having this issue.
Did some traveling from SE Virginia to WV this Thanksgiving. The car, with cruise control on (set at 75), would actually just die going up a mountain. I would have to shift it to 4th (5th did not help) to get the damn thing to act like a SPD3. It did not happen all the time and this was sporadic at best.
I am now back in Virginia and it is at the dealership today. Last week when I talked to them, I expressed my concerns with finding an ACTUAL Mechanic (some one that can troubleshoot and not just depend on codes). After my dealings with a CT dealership, I had a much better feeling about these guys. I did mention that possibly the fuel pump might be a problem. The head Speed Mech said that there have been some fuel pump issues (take that for what it is worth).
So I await thier call
Was happy to find today that oville had fixed his problem....I think I will call the dealership and relate his findings to them.
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Do yourself a favor. Pull all the spark plugs (yes, remove the TMIC). Check for cracks in the ceramic. I had the same symptoms for the first 5K miles and after 3 dealer visits, they could not find the problem because they weren't authorized to pull the TMIC to check all the plugs. I had the problem at low RPMs until the engine was hot as it gets, then it would go away. It was the plugs. I had 2 cracked spark plugs. I found the problem myself, replaced the plugs and the problem was solved.They told me that they were either defective or they were dropped on the floor before instal at the factory.
Check the plugs. I have a thread here with pictures.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123656333&highlight=stuttering
Check the plugs. I have a thread here with pictures.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123656333&highlight=stuttering
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- 07 Speed3, Cosmic Blue
Well, I got my car back and it is 100% better (for now).
Replaced the Purge Valve Solenoid (starts right up everytime now),
and performed the 4907H recall.
I was thinking on it and if the PVS was sticking, would that not create the stuttering?
Hopefully the problem is fixed. I will check the plugs the first chance I get.
Replaced the Purge Valve Solenoid (starts right up everytime now),
and performed the 4907H recall.
I was thinking on it and if the PVS was sticking, would that not create the stuttering?
Hopefully the problem is fixed. I will check the plugs the first chance I get.
i couldnt see possible how what he car is doing would be normal. i kinda know what the intake runner change flap thing hesitation is like from my msp. but this is way worse. it feels like you shut the key off and back on real quick. even passengers in the back seat can feel it.
