Vague Problems with MSP

jroof

Member
Ok, so I've got 12k miles on my car and it's basically handling like a tub on wheels. I need some more concrete details to go to the dealer with and I thought I'd see if you guys had any ideas.
My complaints are that the car rolls like crazy in the corners, it pulls like badly to the left and is really skittish on the highway (although this is probably due to the pull). I've had an alignment which didn't help at all. I know the front bushings creak like crazy but it's not cold so the aren't doing it right now so the dealer doesn't buy it. The rears are also bad but my dealer refuses to replace them.

Do you think it's possible that this awful handling is due entirely to the bushings or is there something else going on? Why would it seem misaligned even after an alignment? I'm getting sick of this car, honestly.
 
the alignment specs for the msp are different than a regular protege. some places might not know this. i doubt everything is due just because of the bushings. though about your dealership not wanting to replace them.....it's under freakin warranty. find another dealership. about the car rolling.....not a clue about that. you have any mods? specifically to the suspension?
 
The pulling could be a tire pull. Try rotating the tires and see if the pull is still there. This happened to me when I had two Toyos ont he back and 2 bridgestones ont he front. After rotating there was no pull with the Toyos on the front. After rotating back so the Bridgestones were on the front the pull came back.

As far as your bushings just replace them your self. I bought the new E series rear bushings for $11 each at my local dealer. All you have to do is jack the car up, unbolt the 4 support bolts that mount the rear sway to the subframe and slide the old bushings off. It took me about 1 hour in the dark with only a flashlight so you know it's not that hard to do yourself. I have not replaced my front bushings.

While you are under the car check where your trailing/control arm mounts to the subframe. The control arms are the 4 black bars that start in the middle of your rear sub frame and extend to your rear wheels (two each). Two of mine had worked their way loose and I was getting major shake when going through long sweeping turns. Once I tightened them back up the car drove good as new. This may not be your problem since I think mine was caused my shady repair practices at my local dealer. I had some suspension work done and think they just didn't secure the bolts well enough. But it's worth you looking at. Just get under your car while it's on jacks. Pull down or push up on the control arms and see if they make any sqeek. If they do the bolts are loose for sure and you should tighten them up. If they don't move at all or make any noise then it's up to you as to whether you want to do a quick check witha socket wrench.
 
if your rear bushings slid off the brackets (like mine did), u gonna get crazy pull in either direction.
it will also be horrible on the corners.
have it checked out.

also like speed demon said, specs are different for alignment for MSP.
i have the specs that u can take to the shop....if u want i can post them.
 
Dr.Sound said:
also like speed demon said, specs are different for alignment for MSP.
i have the specs that u can take to the shop....if u want i can post them.
hey i said that :p
 
well, i didn't say i knew them. they're posted somewhere on the boards, that i know cause i remember seeing them somewhere. sorry if i misled you. dr. sound?
 
Dealership changed all my supension bushings (front and back) a while ago and the car became a lot more tight! (bushing were squeaking front and back)

does a hell of a difference.
 
TX Speed Demon said:
As far as your bushings just replace them your self. I bought the new E series rear bushings for $11 each at my local dealer. All you have to do is jack the car up, unbolt the 4 support bolts that mount the rear sway to the subframe and slide the old bushings off. It took me about 1 hour in the dark with only a flashlight so you know it's not that hard to do yourself. I have not replaced my front bushings.
You bought the bushings? Why? They are under warranty.
 
im afriad to go to the dealer to get my bushings and warped rotors changed because of my mods. None of them have anything to do with suspension or brakes just cai, exhaust and MBC, you think they would give me s***?
 
kNOWfREED0m said:
im afriad to go to the dealer to get my bushings and warped rotors changed because of my mods. None of them have anything to do with suspension or brakes just cai, exhaust and MBC, you think they would give me s***?
Yes, They will KILL you!!! (lol2)
 
Stormtrooper77 said:
You bought the bushings? Why? They are under warranty.
Same problem as everyone else, dealer "couldn't replicate the problem". I figured it was wortht he $25 it cost me in parts to have a fix that I knew would work, and I knew I would do correctly.
 
suckers, that is what they want you to do.

it is a warranty job. MAKE THEM DO IT. GROW SOME BALLS!

just kidding, but you get the point
 
It's difficult to make them do it if they don't agree with what you're saying. The tough part is that I drive the car every day, obviously, and am ultra-sensitive to noises and differences in handling. It's unfortunate that some tech gets to make the decision whether work needs to be done or not in the 3 minutes he drives the car around the block.
 
I got a copy of that alignment spec sheet as well when I got an alignment.
I'd go custom specs if you want more aggresive handling.
Toe out for more lateral stability
Toe in for straight line stability.

I like this setting which is in specs to the stock one.
0 degree toe front
-.5 degree toe rear.
Go to a place that has a guy that will align it perfectly. Most places only align it to within specs and not to an exact tolerance.
 
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