Transmission replacement cost? 2017 CX-5

I have a 2017 CX5 and noticed that shifts into 5th gear were quite rough, even after the fluid has warmed up. The ATF was black, but not low. I performed two drain and fills with Mazda ATF FZ OEM fluid.

Now, the car shifts much worse and even slips into 3rd gear and jolts while downshifting. I suspect that the clutch packs are completely worn and were dependant on the metal flakes in the old fluid. The previous owner drove the car 100k miles with the factory ATF.

I am interested in replacing the transmission or getting a rebuild done. How much would it cost parts/labor for a new trans? And could I just order one from Ebay like the one below and have it installed for a few hundred bucks?
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What would be the best option here?
 
Before you totally condemn the transmission look at any transmission codes that are present. There should be some. Maybe the erratic behavior is caused by particulate contamination of the shift solenoid valves and a filter and fluid change will improve things. You said that the fluid was black, but was it burnt smelling? I've gotten long transmission life from black but not burned transmission fluid. All it needed was servicing. To me, I'd consider a transmission service as a quick and relatively inexpensive (compared to used trans and labor costs) fix.
 
Before you totally condemn the transmission look at any transmission codes that are present. There should be some. Maybe the erratic behavior is caused by particulate contamination of the shift solenoid valves and a filter and fluid change will improve things. You said that the fluid was black, but was it burnt smelling? I've gotten long transmission life from black but not burned transmission fluid. All it needed was servicing. To me, I'd consider a transmission service as a quick and relatively inexpensive (compared to used trans and labor costs) fix.

Would that be something my OBD2 reader could pick up? I am not seeing any codes related to the transmission in there. And no, it didn't smell burnt, just a very dark brown.

I've done a pan cleaning/filter on a 3rd gen Mazda 3 before and it did eventually clear things up, so I might go for it.
 
Hello @Ven Zoah - Two questions:

How did you do the 2 D&Fs? Did you do them back-to-back... or with some driving between them... which one? If you drove between the 2 D&Fs, how many miles did you drive?

I'm not intimately familiar with the CX-5 transmission, so I'm curious to know. Does it have a filter?
 
The ATF does get very dark from use compared to the nice blue color it has when new. When I replaced mine at 50k miles years ago, I actually double checked that I was supposed to use ATF-FZ after it drained. It came out a very dark brown color, and came out the same dark color again at 100k miles. Used oil analysis showed it was thankfully quite low in metals.

I like Jmaz’s suggestion. I personally wouldn’t know where to start though, but like the idea of investigating further before throwing the transmission out.
 
Hello @Ven Zoah - Two questions:

I'm not intimately familiar with the CX-5 transmission, so I'm curious to know. Does it have a filter?

It does. You have to remove the pan to access it.
 
Would that be something my OBD2 reader could pick up? I am not seeing any codes related to the transmission in there. And no, it didn't smell burnt, just a very dark brown.

I've done a pan cleaning/filter on a 3rd gen Mazda 3 before and it did eventually clear things up, so I might go for it.
Depends on your code scanner/reader. Actual code READERS are really basic. Scanners are better though it depends on what you have. Not sure if auto parts stores will do free scan for transmission versus engine OBD codes. Others on the forum here can give better advice on scanners like Bluetooth types that go in depth and are economical, but at any rate , search for transmission codes.
 
Hello @Ven Zoah - Two questions:

How did you do the 2 D&Fs? Did you do them back-to-back... or with some driving between them... which one? If you drove between the 2 D&Fs, how many miles did you drive?

I'm not intimately familiar with the CX-5 transmission, so I'm curious to know. Does it have a filter?
I drove them for a couple days between the drain and fills. It was about 15 miles of driving with a good amount of stopping and going. And yes it has a filter.
 
I would imagine at least 4-10 hours of billed time to install any transmission. I frankly wouldn’t trust any transmission installation that cost only a couple hundred dollars.

I couldn’t imagine any shop willing to warranty as well for that amount.

Transmission are back ordered so don’t know cost but will be $3-4K or more


Bear in mind transmission shop is not going to warranty that $800 eBay unit either
 
Would that be something my OBD2 reader could pick up? I am not seeing any codes related to the transmission in there. And no, it didn't smell burnt, just a very dark brown.

I've done a pan cleaning/filter on a 3rd gen Mazda 3 before and it did eventually clear things up, so I might go for it.
Transmission fluid that is dark brown but not burnt does not necessarily indicate a bad transmission. As it ages, it gets amber -- light brown--dark brown ---black -- black and burnt. I think you are being prematurely condemning the transmission. Has the transmission been checked for codes? You do realize that putting in a used transmission could still be problematic and costly depending what you get and who does the installation. It does happen. Have your transmission diagnosed and evaluated. It still may need a good internal cleaning and codes should point to any defective parts. You could still have a solid transmission and it is STILL INSTALLED in the car. I really think you are 'jumping the gun' on this. Let us know the progress of your actions.

Edited to add:
The slippage and jolts you mention are what I experienced on my previous car and that a transmission flush and service remedied. Simply stated, the solenoid valves in the transmission are commanded by the 'computer' to open at the proper time and direct pressurized fluid to the appropriate clutch packs for each particular gear to allow shifting to occur. If a particular valve doesn't open when it should ( it 'sticks' -- maybe due to dirt particles) the lack of pressure causes those clutch discs to slip instead of being firmly clamped together. So slippage occurs. The computer, noticing this slow/non shift (this happens very quickly) INCREASES the pressure. The valve opens and higher pressure slams those clutch discs together and a shift happens real fast (that's the jolt). Thought maybe a little explanation would help you understand symptoms.
Oh yeah, in my case, I first went to a transmission shop who wanted to sell me a rebuild job for $3200, even though the problem was intermittent. Drove fine, shifted solid and then act up. Instead I spent $200 for a flush, service and checkout by the transmission specialist at a local well regarded shop. I even got to ride along and listen to his explanations. That transmission generated quite a bit of wear material, as was it's nature and as seen on the magnet during 30,000 mile services and went on to live another 71,000 miles until traded in. Again, don't be too hasty to replace the transmission.
 
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