Transmission Problems

Infiniti QX70.

Nice upgrade..actually recommended the g37x to a co-worker (over my too small too impractical rwd 128)..he got a great deal on a 20k mile 2013, he loved the car until the tranny grenaded on him about a year in. No bs- I felt awful bc he really wanted my car despite me telling him how wrong it was for his intended use.. Anyway it was covered and fully resolved by dealer but kind of left a bad taste, how could it not I guess.. I have no idea if these vehicles have the same tranny and these are known to be pretty reliable but anyway fwiw.
 
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The only transmission failure I've ever had was in my class C RV on vacation, and it was a total failure and derailed my vacation and cost me $3500 on the road to replace.

So I'd like to keep that my ONLY transmission failure.
 
Yeah.. transmission issues are the only item on modern vehicles that keep me up at night.. not currently losing sleep but only major bill item I was ever hit with in my youth. At least my CX-5 & Infiniti can be easily serviced...albeit a partial fluid swap. My GX... no dipstick.. allen head fill in hard to reach location with some bypass valve that has to be engaged... enough.. convoluted to say the least. Lifetime fluid claim and seemingly hard to find a failure though. The Wrangler... simple drain and fill on the 5-speed manual. Just need to make sure get the right fluid as even the documentation is apparently wrong on that one.
 
yup. our 2005 Mazda 6 never saw a dealer in the 9 years we owned it. my 2016 CX5 has been back over 10 times in two years. I and just got the rear strut recall notice that parts are in... so that'll make at least one more... sigh. I truly feel Mazda is hit or miss... just got unlucky this time.

Just got my shinny new struts last week after an emergency front brake and rotor change. My wife's a traveling nurse and the brakes started to grind the rotors. This after having the dealer install 4 new tires and telling me the brakes were fine one month ago on the inspection report! 55,000 miles and on the second set of front and rear brakes.
 
Just got my shinny new struts last week after an emergency front brake and rotor change. My wife's a traveling nurse and the brakes started to grind the rotors. This after having the dealer install 4 new tires and telling me the brakes were fine one month ago on the inspection report! 55,000 miles and on the second set of front and rear brakes.

My rear pads are half worn at 20k miles. Dealer says all is normal. Yippee!!!!
 
60k miles and my brakes are in great shape pad wise, but the rotors are warped. You can only tell from higher speed aggressive stops, but it is annoying. At 75k, I'll do rotors and pads.
 
Will do. But thats the exact opposite advice I got from other folks on here in an older thread. They even provided links stating why it shouldn't be done in that manner.

Ive always shifted to park then put the park brake on (electronic or otherwise) before lifting off the foot brake.

Either way you do it, IMO you want to avoid loading the auto transmission up before the park brake takes effect.
 
Will do. But thats the exact opposite advice I got from other folks on here in an older thread. They even provided links stating why it shouldn't be done in that manner.

It doesn't matter how you do it as long as the E-brake is placed BEFORE the foot comes off the "driving brake" (or whatever you call your left pedal).
 
Yes, I have always applied the parking break before releasing the gas pedal, but this thread had a conversation about the proper procedure, and folks highly recommended applying the parking break before shifting into park. Links are contained within.

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123858907-Resistance-Shifting-out-of-Park

I doubt it makes a big difference.
Hearing these Transmission issues I have stopped engine braking. It saves fuel I guess but not worth the price in long run. Slap it in D and never go Sport Mode lol.
 
I doubt it makes a big difference.
Hearing these Transmission issues I have stopped engine braking. It saves fuel I guess but not worth the price in long run. Slap it in D and never go Sport Mode lol.

Might be on to something...

I will say this, I used sport mode and drove the card hard for the first time late last night (ole lady is out of town on business). I did not like the way it acted at all. I will say the car actually does use the little power it has rather well, and it handles nicely for what it is, however, this may be a run to warranty and done vehicle so far. Time will tell I guess...
 
I rarely use Sport mode myself. But there are times when I punch the accelerator on the highway and it only kicks down to 5th, when 4th is necessary to get it moving in a safer manner.
 
Might be on to something...

I will say this, I used sport mode and drove the card hard for the first time late last night (ole lady is out of town on business). I did not like the way it acted at all. I will say the car actually does use the little power it has rather well, and it handles nicely for what it is, however, this may be a run to warranty and done vehicle so far. Time will tell I guess...

Agreed. I find sport mode completely useless.
 
I disagree about Sport Mode being useless. Sport mode puts you right in the powerband so you have the best possible response from the engine. Without using sport mode, you have to wait for the car to be in the right gear before it will take off. With Sport Mode on, you're already in the right gear.

Take for example, merging into a highway with a slow car in front of you. Without sport mode on, you have to wait for the car in front of you to get out of your way so you can get up to speed. All the time, you can't get on the gas until you have a gap and then you bury the throttle and you wait for the 1-2-3 downshifts (depending on speed) until the car takes off. With sport mode on, the car is in the right gear while you wait for the gap, once a gap is available, you punch the throttle and take off.

It is relatively useless from a stop because you're already in the right gear anyway when you're stopped. You'll start from 1st gear regardless if sport mode is on or not.

Sorry for being off-topic but I feel like people just don't understand when to use sport mode and like to bash on it.
 
I disagree about Sport Mode being useless. Sport mode puts you right in the powerband so you have the best possible response from the engine. Without using sport mode, you have to wait for the car to be in the right gear before it will take off. With Sport Mode on, you're already in the right gear.

Take for example, merging into a highway with a slow car in front of you. Without sport mode on, you have to wait for the car in front of you to get out of your way so you can get up to speed. All the time, you can't get on the gas until you have a gap and then you bury the throttle and you wait for the 1-2-3 downshifts (depending on speed) until the car takes off. With sport mode on, the car is in the right gear while you wait for the gap, once a gap is available, you punch the throttle and take off.

It is relatively useless from a stop because you're already in the right gear anyway when you're stopped. You'll start from 1st gear regardless if sport mode is on or not.

Sorry for being off-topic but I feel like people just don't understand when to use sport mode and like to bash on it.

Agreed. Sport mode isn't useless.
 
Will do. But thats the exact opposite advice I got from other folks on here in an older thread. They even provided links stating why it shouldn't be done in that manner.

They might be right, then. :)

I'm just thinking that when you don't use the EB, you brake and shift, so it seems you'd add the EB after that. As long as the wheels don't turn between putting the tranny in park, and locking the EB, the shift pawl shouldn't see binding forces.

If you use EB before shifting, the shift to park might not let the pawl move all the way into position. That's supposition, as I've never seen the inside of an auto tranny, just cycles.
 

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