tomorrow im going to install my hiboost fmic, injen cai, and greddy type s bov. yes i am going to try to vent the bov. ive read so many threads on this topic whether you can vent or whether you have to recirculate. i have come to the conclusion that some can and some cant lol. so i would like tips from all those with venting type s bov's. i.e. adjusting the bov, driving style anything you might have done differently...i really dont want to believe that its just the luck of the draw, but maybe it is...all help is appreciated.
to those with greddy type s
- Thread starter jonbig
- Start date
Matthew said:
I have the type S open vent and no issues at all ... you just have to adjust it, and then drive the car about 20 times until you get the RPMs to stabilize at about 600RPM on stoping. The car will not stall between that and 250-300. If you ever have to stop quick ... the car is going to die, but as the last person said ... just downshift and the problem goes away.
jonbig said:
From everything i know about BOV placement ... that is a crappy place for it. You really want it on the IC / Intake pipe. It may be there for a reason though ... they might be trying to solve an issue with the pressure in the IC core or something ... idk. Anyway, most setups that i see are on the IC / Intake pipe.
I have a pic i will attach here shortly ... gotta get my laptop booted up. Damned slow ass G4 MAC.
Wiggles422
Member
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- MSP #654
I had the greddy type s venting for about a week after i put it on with the hiboost fmic. I had it tuned where it would still dip down in rpms but wouldn't stall very often. I found myself just downshifting, like previously mentioned. When I had that setup I had 5x as much turkey as I did with the stock bpv.
All of a sudden one day it just started stalling like crazy, for instance, I was backing out of the driveway (deffinately didnt get over 2k rpms) and I put in the clutch to shift to first and it stalled. Ever since then I couldnt find that sweet spot again so I decided to recirculate it. I did a custom ghetto job of doing it (one foot of 3/4" hose, two copper fittings from home depot, hose clamps, and some electrical tape) but it works fine! I have no turkey
but i don't have the pssshh I bought it for either. 
I may try to vent again here shortly... now that i'm tired of not having the sound i paid extra for. Or I may just run the dual setup. Anyways I think Brian wrote in another thread that he bumped up the idle so that it wouldn't dip so low in rpms.
All of a sudden one day it just started stalling like crazy, for instance, I was backing out of the driveway (deffinately didnt get over 2k rpms) and I put in the clutch to shift to first and it stalled. Ever since then I couldnt find that sweet spot again so I decided to recirculate it. I did a custom ghetto job of doing it (one foot of 3/4" hose, two copper fittings from home depot, hose clamps, and some electrical tape) but it works fine! I have no turkey
but i don't have the pssshh I bought it for either. I may try to vent again here shortly... now that i'm tired of not having the sound i paid extra for. Or I may just run the dual setup. Anyways I think Brian wrote in another thread that he bumped up the idle so that it wouldn't dip so low in rpms.i have a type s but i have an mp3. it's a custom pipe with the BOV real close to the T/B. i adjusted the spring just right. if you want it to blow off all the time including lower boost i wouldn't suggest running it to the atmosphere but if you don't care then just adjust the spring so it'll vent when it senses under mostly mid-high boost levels.
the greddy twin turbo kit for the g35/350z's has the blow off valve situated on the same pipe as the MAF but it's BEFORE it (MAF) going to the T/B. i'm guessing this is their way of allowing the car to run vented to the atmosphere with a MAF setup as well. not sure how different the pro's might be but this may be something to look into for someone.
the greddy twin turbo kit for the g35/350z's has the blow off valve situated on the same pipe as the MAF but it's BEFORE it (MAF) going to the T/B. i'm guessing this is their way of allowing the car to run vented to the atmosphere with a MAF setup as well. not sure how different the pro's might be but this may be something to look into for someone.
DSMConvert
AWD...say Bye Bye
- :
- Titanium MS6
hmm on a maf setup recirc is the best way to go as far as effic and performance(numerous studies have been done on this). On a map and SD setup it doesnt matter...as far as bov placement it varies from person to person and both sides have valid points. on a crappy stock ic there is a pressure difference so you want to vent from the highest pressure area, which is between the ic and the turbo. Now if you ahve a good IC with minimal psi drop then you want to vent from the ic to tb side b/c you'll be sending cold air into your intake instead of steaming hot air which will just get heatd up again, called superheating.
well, as far as efficiency and performance goes i wouldn't doubt that recirculating is the way to go. i was just refering to the greddy twin turbo setup placement of the bov for driveability sake running a MAF setup so the ECU won't read a false reading like that you might get in the typical setup if you had it after the MAF. good points though.DSMConvert said:
DSMConvert
AWD...say Bye Bye
- :
- Titanium MS6
hehe remember its a mazda SPEED, not a mazda sound..... (naughty) To tell ya the truth it shouldnt sound that bad...with an intake and the stock bpv @10psi it sounded almost as loud/good as my dsm running 13psi with a greddy s set to soft. Honestly at these low boost levels and low hp levels I doubt it will make a noticable difference performance wise if you recirc or not..the only thing is you'll stall on quick slow downs and be more prone to back fire....I personally say screw the maf and just convert to map like the mp3 guys....oh star i didnt mean any of that towards you, I was just throwing up some points...sorry if it came off like i was aiming it at your response...
