Tips/Tricks to replace rear camber arm?

[Silentnoise713]

I had a look at the rear camber arms with the intent of putting in the SPC adjustable arms. It looks like and I vaguely recall it is a big PITA to get one of the bolts off/out, or something like that?? On one side, it seems the bolt may hit the exhaust hanger is this the same issues. Anyone here done a rear control arm and can give some heads up before I tear into it?

Thanks.

 

[sac02]

Haven't done it, but have read about it, and looked at the install on my car if I wanted to do it in the future (and stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night!) - yes, I think the interference with the exhaust hanger is the issue. Other side looks easy-peasy.

 

[loosenut]

You're going to be doing an alignment anyway, loosen the six subframe bolts enough for an extra 1/4" of clearance to that exhaust hanger. Removing the rubber part of the hanger may help also. That is what I did on mine. If that doesn't make enough room, remove the 6 bolts and support the subframe with a jack. Just unbolt the lower shock mounts if you drop it that far.

 

[Silentnoise713]

You're going to be doing an alignment anyway, loosen the six subframe bolts enough for an extra 1/4" of clearance to that exhaust hanger. Removing the rubber part of the hanger may help also. That is what I did on mine. If that doesn't make enough room, remove the 6 bolts and support the subframe with a jack. Just unbolt the lower shock mounts if you drop it that far.

I was hoping for an easier solution, honestly… 6yrs of NE salted undercarriage bolts is not something I want to mess with if it can be avoided. This is why I decide to not do the MS3 FSB and just stuck with replacing the OE bushing. I thought I recall someone cutting off something for access…

Can you have a look at the link below (note there is a space), where a pry bar was used… Does this seem like a doable solution on the Mz5? Again, I could have sworn someone cut something to make it easier but if all I need is more pow’a to nudge it out, I’m all for it! Path of least resistance wins.
http://www.mazda speedforums.org/forum/f425/how-install-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-eibach-156688/

 

[loosenut]

Even though the rear sub-frame/suspension set-ups are damn near identical between the Mz3/Ms3 and Mz5, the challenges at replacing the camber arms are different due to the evaporative leak detection pump and the exhaust hangers being in different locations between the two. Our R/H side is easy compared to the Mz3 whereas their L/H is easy compared to ours. The body side exhaust hanger is directly behind the top camber arm bolt on ours which means that you either have to bend that hanger or cut it off (I think that it was Phunky that cut his) if you don't drop the sub-frame. My 5 has been no stranger to road salt and the sub-frame bolts came out fairly easily, so I still recommend trying to drop the sub-frame but as always YMMV. It took me about a half an hour to lower the sub-frame and install the L/H arm on mine. I replaced the R/H side first before lowering the sub-frame.

 

[Donewood]

I had a Burly friend tug at the offending bolt, 4 years ago. After the bolt shot across the garage... I hacked a 1/4 inch off of it, before installing Ford Focus Competition adjustable control arms. Tires have been wearing normaly ever since. Ive gone thu two sets of tires. Just put summer Bridgestone Potenzas on this month. Wore the last set of Falkens down normaly, over three seasons. (I drive about 150 KM per day).

 

[chad99]

I just removed the two spring bolts on the exhaust located just in front of the left rear tire then popped the exh off the hanger and had enough room to remove the bolt.

 

[Silentnoise713]

I had a Burly friend tug at the offending bolt, 4 years ago. After the bolt shot across the garage... I hacked a 1/4 inch off of it, before installing Ford Focus Competition adjustable control arms. Tires have been wearing normaly ever since. Ive gone thu two sets of tires. Just put summer Bridgestone Potenzas on this month. Wore the last set of Falkens down normaly, over three seasons. (I drive about 150 KM per day).

I think this is what I recall, hacking the bolt. But it sounds like you need to take it off to make it smaller/easier to reinstall... that bolt is really long for no reason.

 

[tjw80836]

well im installing a rear camber kit i got from speedracer.com on my 2009 mazda 5 tired of replacing tires every 10k miles
we will see how it goes im starting on the easy side first

 

[Silentnoise713]

Where there's a will, there's a way

Nothing like an upcoming cold spell to get me off my lazy but

That said, yes you can.

No need to cut anything or a burly friend. Have to admit I started going the brut force route bc it "looked" like you can get it out. Then I notice there is a little give and shake and at the right angle, it does come out .

I have to say these SPC arms are pretty good. Solid build and once installed, they can be adjust without having to remove. It is a 3 piece design and the middle piece can be adjusted. [edit- shop has to custom bend a wrench to reach the adjusting nut. There's very little space to access]

Now to decide on the front end links. So far i'm like the detached FSB. Grips really well but I haven't done much HWY and may want more directional stability. TBD. [edit- clarify this is with full coilover setup, do NOT advise detaching FSB on stock setup]

 

[Donewood]

Well here I am again. Replacing rear upper control arms and other rear end links. Still fighting with that same ignorant bolt. Yes the one I cut down. I guess I should have hacked it down a few MM shorter then I did. Cursing what ever engineering geniuses that had them weld the exhaust hanger in that one particularly inconvenient spot. And also the bean counter who sourced the particularly long suspension bolts. Thanks I needed to vent. Arrrrrgh!!!!

 

[Silentnoise713]

Where there's a will, there's a way
...
That said, yes you can.

No need to cut anything or a burly friend. Have to admit I started going the brut force route bc it "looked" like you can get it out. Then I notice there is a little give and shake and at the right angle, it does come out .

Going back to memory, there is a trick to removing (and reinstalling) that bolt without brute strength or removing stuff. The 'trick' is to pass the bolt through the control arm first (!there's slack !), grab the control arm then rotate, push, lift (insert appropriate verb) it to align the bolt into the mount. The 'give and shake' is in ref to the control arm that needs jiggling.

That said, I did cut 3/4".

Guide - Mazda5 Tutorial - SPC adjustable rear camber upper arms

Hi all, Like many, I've had troubles with aggressive wear on the inside edges of my 2006 Mazda 5's rear tires, so I decided to install some adjustable camber rear upper arms. I purchased these arms from RockAuto: ULTRA-POWER MS40125 At $30 each, they're hard to beat and are a clone of the...

mazdas247.com

 

[Donewood]

Going back to memory, there is a trick to removing (and reinstalling) that bolt without brute strength or removing stuff. The 'trick' is to pass the bolt through the control arm first (!there's slack !), grab the control arm then rotate, push, lift (insert appropriate verb) it to align the bolt into the mount. The 'give and shake' is in ref to the control arm that needs jiggling.

That said, I did cut 3/4".

Guide - Mazda5 Tutorial - SPC adjustable rear camber upper arms

Hi all, Like many, I've had troubles with aggressive wear on the inside edges of my 2006 Mazda 5's rear tires, so I decided to install some adjustable camber rear upper arms. I purchased these arms from RockAuto: ULTRA-POWER MS40125 At $30 each, they're hard to beat and are a clone of the...

mazdas247.com

So I'm on to replacing the Rear lower Control arms, (Bushings shot) and Springs. One spring was actually broken about 4 inches from the end in the control arm cup. Used drills and dremel cutoff discs to Bisect the rusted Bolt and sleeve. Still a nightmare job in a home garage without a High lift. The replacement Camber adjusting through bolt has a flat side and Grease hole, with a nipple threading in the Hex Head. Looks like a improved design to prevent seizing. Any Idea on what lubricant Grease to use?

 

[zsteve]

Just finished with the adjustable upper arm replacement.
The job is pretty straightforward.
The problem is removal of the upper bolt on the drivers side because the exhaust hanger is in the way. Loosen the 2 spring bolts holding the muffler segment of the exhaust to the exhaust mid pipe. This gives you wiggle room to work. Spray some oil into the problem rubber bushing and slide it off the hanger. The bolt should reluctantly clear. Cut about 1/4" off the end of the bolt and round the edges before reinstalling. It doesn't need to be that long and it makes reinstalling much easier.

 

[rit14623]

I did it. I forgot some of the details.
I did recall having to remove the rubber exhaust hangar that prevented the bolt from coming out. Once that was out, I could remove the bolt and then the control arm. The exhaust hangar was welded into position making removal difficult, but not impossible. The passenger side control arm was removed and reinstalled quickly as the exhaust hangar is not there.
Anyway, I don't know why they didn't put in adjustable arms. The camber was off and causing wear on both rear tires on the inside edge.