The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

[magnumP5]

I'm in a slightly better mood today. I forgot the FC's starter had a lifetime warranty, which was nice to not pay a thing. I also got the new relay I need to solder into the wiper switch to get my intermittent wipers back.

The relay isn't too hard a job - especially if you have the propr desoldering tools. I tried it once several years ago but screwed up because I tried to go too fast. You absolutely cannot pull the copper rings out of the circuit board! The trick is getting enough heat into all the contacts at once so the old relay can be removed without breaking anything.

Jon, a few of the OG Protege guys have used Jay Racing for parts and service and are pretty happy with them. Nate is a good guy and really knows his s***. I've only ordered thermal spacers from them but they looked pretty good.

That's the impression I get from these forums. It looks like they're only about an hour away, which isn't too bad. I'm just looking for a reputable shop to take some of the burden off me (i.e. welding).

 

[o0n8]

To my Ohio friends and those I know from other parts.... I picked up a 2014 Mazda3 S Touring Hatchback today. I have to thank Marlon for everything as he answered all my questions and told me if I got a good deal or not....

And my first mod was my co-pilot. Sir Derpington Von Derp.

Congrats, the hatch looks really good in white.

As far as the diverter is concerned, production and materials have increased along with food, gas, etc. If you like the piece, ask for it without the JNA on it. There must be some validity to the functionality of it, as I have seen a number of race teams cover this area in some form or another.

I'm still cheap maybe they want offer one for the Natefest Raffle? I'll send them an email and ask.

They'll work. They're both 5x114.3 and have the same hub bores. TPMS should work but I don't run any in my winter set.

I'm in a slightly better mood today. I forgot the FC's starter had a lifetime warranty.

Score! except that it crapped out in the first place.

Jon, a few of the OG Protege guys have used Jay Racing for parts and service and are pretty happy with them. Nate is a good guy and really knows his s***. I've only ordered thermal spacers from them but they looked pretty good.

+1

 

[tweiss3]

The relay isn't too hard a job - especially if you have the propr desoldering tools. I tried it once several years ago but screwed up because I tried to go too fast. You absolutely cannot pull the copper rings out of the circuit board! The trick is getting enough heat into all the contacts at once so the old relay can be removed without breaking anything.


That's the impression I get from these forums. It looks like they're only about an hour away, which isn't too bad. I'm just looking for a reputable shop to take some of the burden off me (i.e. welding).

Desoldering wire (the copper weave stuff) works well normally. I managed to desolder the one chip from the FC to install the new chip during the OMP delete. I hope it's not any more difficult.

Score! except that it crapped out in the first place.

Yea, I was annoyed it went so soon, considering it was put in October 2011, but if I don't have to pay for anything, meh

 

[tweiss3]

I shouldn't be looking, but how does s plan work? I've never purchased a new car before, ever.

 

[Fiji Mazda3]

I shouldn't be looking, but how does s plan work? I've never purchased a new car before, ever.

It's a PIN that gives you a set discounted price before any incentives are added in. You can essentially go to any Mazda dealer with your number, tell them which car you want, and your price is already set without having to negotiate.

 

[lildisco]

& in my recent research, it's only been a few hundred or a thousand or so off. I remember a few years ago being a couple thousand off, but I'd have to track down my wife's 6i's original paperwork to verify. don't get me wrong, money off is money off, but I just remember it being MORE money off, lol

 

[o0n8]

& in my recent research, it's only been a few hundred or a thousand or so off. I remember a few years ago being a couple thousand off, but I'd have to track down my wife's 6i's original paperwork to verify. don't get me wrong, money off is money off, but I just remember it being MORE money off, lol

Probably less of a mark-up since they're not a part of Ford anymore

 

[hat1018]

It's a PIN that gives you a set discounted price before any incentives are added in. You can essentially go to any Mazda dealer with your number, tell them which car you want, and your price is already set without having to negotiate.

So with the s-plan pin it sets the price and then any other discounts/rebates are taken off of that price?

 

[Perro del Sol]

So with the s-plan pin it sets the price and then any other discounts/rebates are taken off of that price?

Yes, they will combine all of the rebates, discounts and incentives, etc..........

 

[hat1018]

Yes, they will combine all of the rebates, discounts and incentives, etc..........

Sweet! Our CX5 is getting cheaper all the time. Potentially.

 

[codex]

It's possible to find a better price without the S plan as well. When I was looking for the MS3 I found a dealer on autotrader that was selling it for less than the s plan price.

 

[pmartz16]

It's possible to find a better price without the S plan as well. When I was looking for the MS3 I found a dealer on autotrader that was selling it for less than the s plan price.

Yea that same dealer and probably the sales man you bought it off of, Dave, will do all the incentives and rebates and discounts they can on top of the s plan price.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[magnumP5]

That's the only downside to all these "plan" pricing schemes. It's basically presented as a fixed price with no negotiation room. I'd suggest seeing what you can get without it the old fashioned way (haggling) and if that doesn't get the price low enough for you throw the s-plan PIN at 'em.

 

[hat1018]

That's the only downside to all these "plan" pricing schemes. It's basically presented as a fixed price with no negotiation room. I'd suggest seeing what you can get without it the old fashioned way (haggling) and if that doesn't get the price low enough for you throw the s-plan PIN at 'em.

I agree Jon. It would be a good idea to keep a trump card up your sleeve, just in case. I have noticed dealer sites showing an "internet price", one in particular shows about a $2400 savings. Weird?

 

[subspeed6]

Congrats, the hatch looks really good in white.

Thanks! I am loving it already. I drive it and it feels just right. Almost like it was meant for me. Haha

I agree Jon. It would be a good idea to keep a trump card up your sleeve, just in case. I have noticed dealer sites showing an "internet price", one in particular shows about a $2400 savings. Weird?

When I was shopping around internet prices were lower than MSRP and included rebates that you may not be eligible for. I had one dealer say they would honor rebates that they couldn't actually do.

The dealer I wound up buying from showed me in writing what the eligibility was. I did qualify for two of the current ones and they priced the car below S-Plan pricing to meet my budget. Initially, I was a bit insulted by them because they severely low-balled me on my trade-in and I almost walked out. I stuck it out and told the sales guy's manager that I know they need to make money while helping me get to my budget number...

In the end, I got rid of the Failoster and picked up a nice new Mazda that I am paying the same per month. I don't know if I got a good deal on the Mazda or screwed over on the Hyundai.

Haha.

 

[WillD]

Yes, they will combine all of the rebates, discounts and incentives, etc..........

Details and fine print: http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=ProgramGuidelinePricing

It's possible to find a better price without the S plan as well. When I was looking for the MS3 I found a dealer on autotrader that was selling it for less than the s plan price.

That's the only downside to all these "plan" pricing schemes. It's basically presented as a fixed price with no negotiation room. I'd suggest seeing what you can get without it the old fashioned way (haggling) and if that doesn't get the price low enough for you throw the s-plan PIN at 'em.

I agree with this. It just depends what times of rebates and incentives are going on at the time and what car is being purchased. Best to find out for sure though.

 

[Perro del Sol]

The more knowledge you have, the better off you'll be! On our Speed3, we got the Tech Package, Special Paint, for nothing, and then another $1500 off on top of that! I got our car less that most people got the Base Speed 3 for.....

 

[princess peach]

sup crackers!! made it back in 7 hours (not counting lunch and gas break) with no speeding tickets. So much crap to do... now I gotta catch up on 302 emails...

this did not feel like a vacation at all

 

[tweiss3]

Is there anyway to view the invoice/window sticker over the internet/mazda's website? I know you can with Ford.

 

[Perro del Sol]

Is there anyway to view the invoice/window sticker over the internet/mazda's website? I know you can with Ford.

Yes, you can, you have to go to the dealership where the car is located. The Dealer has a copy of the S Plan Invoice as well