The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

LOL! Touche, Nate!

But I'm still friends with all my ex-girlfriends, so it's still tough.
 
I was attempting to remove the bolt that is highlighted by the arrow in this picture:
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I didn't get a new control arm or anything I was just trying to take it apart to replace the spring. I got the bolt about the inch of the way out and it stopped moving and eventually wouldn't turn. Of course, I forced the issue and after a couple loud snaps it spins all day now but it won't go back in or out and bits of the rubber pushing are coming out with every rotation of the bolt.

I'll try and snap some pictures of the specific situation I have if necessary.
 
In the words of Peaches, "Cut it...". Can you cut the head of the bolt off and just replace it with a new bolt/nut? Or is the other side of the bolt threaded into a welded nut? I don't know Miata's. I'm sure Phen or aMaff will come in with all their wisdom soon. :D
 
that's not the miata, it's the speed 3. If I remember correctly, there is no nut at the other end, and it won't be easy to cut the head off..... I never had issues with mine, in your situation I might try to force it out with an air hammer or something. You'll need a new bolt, probably a new control arm as well since the threads will be shot. Have you tried to shock freeze it?
 
The good thing is, he has a TON of equity in it. Trade in would be around $18,000, and he only owes $8,000. His wish list might be a hard sell though...he would want something brand new, or at the very least, something with less than 15,000mi, but only wants to be around the low $20,000's. It also would have to be something "cool", something manual, fast, V8 or forced induction, etc. No soccer mom SUV's or run of the mill sedans. lol

The mileage might be hard to come by, but he can get a late-model Mustang GT or probably a Challenger R/T for a V8. He might want to consider something like an Infiniti G35/37 or a 350Z if he's open to imports. Those are just a few that come to mind. I'm sure I can come up with a laundry list of ideas.
 
Good luck with the fix, Will. I hope its simple. Let me know if you need anything to help you get it figured out.
 
The mileage might be hard to come by, but he can get a late-model Mustang GT or probably a Challenger R/T for a V8. He might want to consider something like an Infiniti G35/37 or a 350Z if he's open to imports. Those are just a few that come to mind. I'm sure I can come up with a laundry list of ideas.

I started finding a few of each of those as well. Couple Mustang GT's w/under 10K for a little over $20K, and quite a few Infinity/Nissans. The NISMO 350's are pretty sick looking!
 
PHP:
/insert snide remark about trailblazer SS vs jeep SRT8 debate from paaaaaages ago here lol

I didn't get a chance to look into that website linked but a manual SS would be sweet...

WillD, I actually Towed the car home a few hours ago so I think I'm going to ask around and see if someone wants to part with their seat indefinitely. Thanks though!
 
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I didn't get a new control arm or anything I was just trying to take it apart to replace the spring. I got the bolt about the inch of the way out and it stopped moving and eventually wouldn't turn. Of course, I forced the issue and after a couple loud snaps it spins all day now but it won't go back in or out and bits of the rubber pushing are coming out with every rotation of the bolt.

I'll try and snap some pictures of the specific situation I have if necessary.

That... sucks. Sounds like you broke the internal nut that it threads into off from its welds. Happens a lot of places fairly commonly, including Miata rear control arms at the bolt for the bottom of the knuckle and some Honda subframes.

There is very likely an access hole in the subframe where you can get a wrench on that nut. You may need to dremmel yourself a notch to give yourself enough room to get a wrench in there. Good luck.
 
Whats up OHIO people? I never get over to this side of the world to say hi. Those of you that follow the NEPOC boards know, but those of you that dont, the P5 has been retired! It was time. So here is what she has been replaced with!

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2012 Fireglow Red Mazda 6 iSport 6speed. I love this car!!
 
I am green with envy that the bottom of your car is in that condition...

That isn't a picture of my car it is just a picture from a how-to that I found. I wish that my car was that nice! I doubt I'd be having the problems I'm having!

In the words of Peaches, "Cut it...". Can you cut the head of the bolt off and just replace it with a new bolt/nut? Or is the other side of the bolt threaded into a welded nut? I don't know Miata's. I'm sure Phen or aMaff will come in with all their wisdom soon. :D

that's not the miata, it's the speed 3. If I remember correctly, there is no nut at the other end, and it won't be easy to cut the head off..... I never had issues with mine, in your situation I might try to force it out with an air hammer or something. You'll need a new bolt, probably a new control arm as well since the threads will be shot. Have you tried to shock freeze it?

Yep it's my Speed3. Sorry I didn't specify. I can see the end of the bolt still in the nut that is welded to the other side of the control arm. I'm baffled at how it can be still threaded in that bolt but just spin constantly. I didn't know that there was something else in the control arm to move the bolt out of the bushing?

What do you mean by shock freeze?

Good luck with the fix, Will. I hope its simple. Let me know if you need anything to help you get it figured out.

Thanks!

WillD, I actually Towed the car home a few hours ago so I think I'm going to ask around and see if someone wants to part with their seat indefinitely. Thanks though!

No problem let me know if you need to use one until you find something more permanent!

That... sucks. Sounds like you broke the internal nut that it threads into off from its welds. Happens a lot of places fairly commonly, including Miata rear control arms at the bolt for the bottom of the knuckle and some Honda subframes.

There is very likely an access hole in the subframe where you can get a wrench on that nut. You may need to dremmel yourself a notch to give yourself enough room to get a wrench in there. Good luck.

Yeah I didn't know there was an internal nut...but now that I think about it that makes sense. And if that is the case it is most definitely fubar'ed. :(
 
What's up FlippyFloppy! Nice looking 6. The scenery in that first picture is nice!
 
PHP:
/insert snide remark about trailblazer SS vs jeep SRT8 debate from paaaaaages ago here lol

Cause I'm sure SRT-8's are 100% bulletproof and impervious to anything ever happening to them! (magenta font, just didn't know which one to pick lol)

I didn't get a chance to look into that website linked but a manual SS would be sweet...

You didn't miss much, just a website on how to swap a 6speed AUTO. Not sure how that was relevant to talks of swapping a MANUAL, but apparently Wes thought so. lol
 
What do you mean by shock freeze?

there's a can you can buy at autozone called shock freeze, spray the bolt with a cold fluid and it "freezes" it very fast, making it slightly smaller. But if what maff said its true, then it wouldn't be a lot of help. Taking a look at it might help shed some ideas
 
Yeah... it's gotta be really hot for it to do s***. Otherwise, it's just another rust penetrant.
 
I started finding a few of each of those as well. Couple Mustang GT's w/under 10K for a little over $20K, and quite a few Infinity/Nissans. The NISMO 350's are pretty sick looking!

That's why I suggested a GT. We've got a couple late models on the lot for that price and there surprisingly fun cars to drive.
 
You didn't miss much, just a website on how to swap a 6speed AUTO. Not sure how that was relevant to talks of swapping a MANUAL, but apparently Wes thought so. lol

If it were my truck I'd just get rid of the awd system and go with a manual rwd setup with a transfer case. With something that huge and fat, awd is kind of pointless. It's not like it's about to have any kind of power any time soon where it couldn't hook up. Put some sticky tires on it and practice your launches, and there you go. If you've got the kind of power where you can't hook up, just do highway roll ons, 60-160. :D
 
So here is a view from the back of the car just to the left of the brake rotor:
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This view is from the opposite side of the bolt:
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(sorry the image loaded to imageshack upside down for some stupid reason)

This is the view from the underneath:
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And the final product on the side that isn't broken:
photo7d.jpg
 

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