The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

If one stealership gives you crap about the mods why not just try a different one as Pablo suggests? Especially if you are planning on putting the parts back on after your visit?

Maybe I missed this but what are you having them (the dealership) do to your car?
 
Thanks for the advice. Your approach sounds much more effective. I was planning on cutting the bolt just to the left of the nut on the inside of where the lower control arm is attached:
photo6ek.jpg

Yeah, if you do that you're left with that bolt end still stuck in the nut.
 
Yeah, if you do that you're left with that bolt end still stuck in the nut.

Yeah. The threads are probably f-ed in that nut anyways so I might as well replace it.

According to Rosenthal Mazda the bushing in that control arm is not sold separately. I found these but it's the same price as buying an entirely new control arm from Mazda Motorsports.
 
WillD:5916319 said:
If one stealership gives you crap about the mods why not just try a different one as Pablo suggests? Especially if you are planning on putting the parts back on after your visit?

Maybe I missed this but what are you having them (the dealership) do to your car?

Nothing at the moment.....but its either take the test pipe off or get a cobb ap or a tune. One costs barely anything the other a ton. Kind of a no brainer with so much warranty left on the car as it is.
 
You don't need a tune with just an intake and a test pipe. It will still pass emissions (if that is a concern) because of the cat on the downpipe. Most dealers are too stupid to realize the test pipe. Just swap the intake before you go for warranty work (30 minutes, at the most).
 
For those of you that didn't know, the NWORSCCA registration site is up and you can pre-register and pay at the event if you don't have the $$$ now to race at the Aug. 26th event at TEA. Just click on the link in the stickied thread, register, and badda bing, badda boom - Done! Thanks again and hope to see all of you there.
 
Will, do you have one of those air chisels? If the nut is stripped, you should be able to punch the bolt out of the nut if you can get the chisel back there.
 
Will, do you have one of those air chisels? If the nut is stripped, you should be able to punch the bolt out of the nut if you can get the chisel back there.

No air chisel :( Hammer, impact, and ratchet are the only pneumatic tools I have.

Going to pick up some new blades for my reciprocating saw right now. After work I'm going to try and detach the nut with a dremel and then cut the bolt out with the saw.
 
I bet it could drive over the cones without hitting them...
 
So still haven't gotten the control arm off. I could only spend about an hour working on it today and that included the time to get my car back up on jack stands. I couldn't get the dremel in a position to safely attack the nut that is welded to the other side of the control arm or I would've had the stupid thing off by now.

I did however find a couple threads where people had similar issues: http://www.mazda speedforums.org/forum/f12/broken-control-arm-nut-90157/
http://www.mn mazda.com/forum/showthread.php?6649-HELP!-17mm-LCA-bolt-is-effing-me-over!
 
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