First, yes, only, no. C7 vette now has a 7-speed manual transmission, which I actually want to drive just to see what it's like.
The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working
- Thread starter THE Phen
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First, yes, only, no. C7 vette now has a 7-speed manual transmission, which I actually want to drive just to see what it's like.
But O'Conner did in a 5-Speed, that's more impressive!
I just want to drive one. Preferably a Z06 though.
After seeing a couple driving around I really like them. The ass doesn't look bad to me at all and although the front is very Ferrari esq it still looks good.
This!
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
Why so defensive? hehe Have fun out there and I'll paypal you $20, you can send me my million dollar winnings when you get home.
Then I can buy one of these Ferraris y'all are talking about.
I've had this problem too, and it's got to do with amount of space between the axle and the hub teeth. Over time, they will both begin to loose material, causing a little bit of extra room.
People have suggested that a new axle nut replacement is in order, but that's just part of the problem. Mazda issued a TSB on this issue, basically requires removal of the axle from the hub, greasing the splines on both the axle and the hub with graphite or molybdenum type grease. At the same time, they recommend replacing and re-staking the axle nut. It needs to be torqued to about 200ft/lbs.
The real problem is the loss of material, and the grease is really just a patch to make the noise go away. Technically, hub and axle should both be replaced.
That's funny, I had the same issue with the yoke for the driveshaft/tranny connection on the LS Miata. All of my research led me to the same conclusion, grease it. I forget what other car had the issue, I want to say some GM trucks.
Mine was less of a click and more of a clunk. Very annoying. I ended up replacing the yoke with a higher-quality one and redoing the mounting for the diff. I couldn't really tell where the clunk was coming from! (scratch)
Did you replace the hub and axle, or just grease everything up and torque the axle nut down to 200 lb/ft
I wasn't ready to replace the axle, I've only bought a replacement nut and some grease. When I actually saw the splines under some good light (after thorough cleaning) it all made sense. Now, I think this fix is probably good enough to keep the noise away. I think most of us will replace the axles and bearings before either get eaten up that much.
For now, I'm just happy with the noise gone. Next time I plan on getting axles out I might take care of it all.
EDIT:
It's also a very expensive repair if you want to do it right. Bearing is about $40 and you'll need a press or something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html, then the new OEM hub is about $122 online + whatever the cost of the driver side axle is. All this for just one side....
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That's in pretty rough shape for $6500. Maybe $4k tops
and the yellow top sitting since 2006 is nothing but a paperweight.
In dayton, but with an NC plate? Plus it looks pretty rough. It should be priced about 3500, shell pricing.
More randomness:
According to a 2012 study, women make 80% of the car-buying decisions.
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2012/02/women-make-80-of-the-automotive-purchase-decisions.html
Ha! Suckers.
According to a 2012 study, women make 80% of the car-buying decisions.
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2012/02/women-make-80-of-the-automotive-purchase-decisions.html
Ha! Suckers.
I've made 66% of the car buying decisions so far. I gave her the budget and my recommendations and she picked the Escape.
Edit - She could've saved everyone if she picked my car after the MSP.
I think it worked out pretty good for me though
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