The massive Boost Thread

ddogg777 said:
Hmm, explain how you came to that opinion. We decided that the main support plate could be used more effectively if we evened out the load over the entire bearing face by using the top thrust. You might be being overly cautious here, that "lever arm" would correlate with horizontal deflection at the top of the cap, the main support plate helps in keeping the caps from moving. edit: I can see why this would worry you if the top thrust stuck had less clearance than the bottom. For example, mine was binding and would have put all the thrust load on the top washer, that is why I had to get the cap machined some more so that the clearances of the top and bottom were the same.You lost me here...please explain, what float and why do you want it Wow, that sucks, mine has close to .006" clearance all around the thrust face. I guess only time will tell if it was a worthwhile mod. Of course, my full-face Spec3 clutch can't be good on any thrust face in this little engine... ;)


The upper plate is too flexible relative to everything else... and there is enough play around the bolts that they can move.. so it the cap would have to a number of thousandths before it would hit the structure of the plate, that allows torque to be applied to the mains and can result in twisting and cracking. If all tolerances were tight then sure the plate will offer some support... but overall it isn't likely to lend a lot of help.. and the torque/lever arm is the concern. Unless the tolerances are perfect you will end up with some additional load getting applied... or the extra plate will do nothing.. so it is awfully hard to get it perfect... and if it is at all out of parallel with the crank you are also going to have issues.

I don't fully understand the cap float issue... but my engine builder was trying to explain it to me and the man knows his stuff... basically you have to allow everything to move together.. and there is slop in the thrust washers as stock anyway... so you have to match that float for everythign to be effective... I don't follow it all, but it required machining for it to work out basically... also likely has something to do with the fact that to get everything lined up it is easier with the caps floating.. I dunno!

As far as your stage 3... that won't do anything to be worried about... unless you specifically request it... all spec clutches regardless of stage area 30% over pressure plate.. they make up the torque with good materials on the friction disc. ACT and Clutchmaster and everyone else uses between and 30 and 35% pressure plate... therefore everyone that has an aftermarket clutch would have a problem to deal with as well... but no one really does... so no worries.. higher horsepower isn't going to change that clutch load either.. and it only gets applied dearing the time you apply the clutch... so unless you ride the clutch it additionally doesn't matter.
 
TurfBurn said:
As far as your stage 3... that won't do anything to be worried about... unless you specifically request it... all spec clutches regardless of stage area 30% over pressure plate.. . and it only gets applied dearing the time you apply the clutch... so unless you ride the clutch it additionally doesn't matter.
Good points! (thumb)
 
Well in other massive boost news... sounds like people are starting to shear gears more often.. this is being discussed in other threads, but I felt it was relevant to this discussion so I figured I'd post on it... but it looks like somewhere over 300 whp gears start taking dumps in some cases... but here's hoping we find out why and what in the future!

Later,

Steve
 
I already stated the problem with high pressure plates, broken gears and stuff. Looks like im having a problem related to crankwalk, if not, its only the crank pulley issue. Will find out soon.

Second, about breaking gears, man, I will try to take pics today, but the gear set in the AWD BPT transmission is compatible with our transmission and very very hard. My friends are doing one RIGHT NOW, so I will try to post some pics if they allow me to.

Turf, Im sorry I dont have kike's number yet (crazy guy FS builder) but I just got my new celphone today and I lost my address book with the last cellphone. Also I been very very busy with college, kids and now with my engine issue.

I dont know if he ever had a problem with it, but rumors are that the protege5 he used to build and tune is now in other hands and was able to push over 600whp, how true is that, i dont know. I just know that in his hands, a year ago i was on the dyno (the same Jeremy and I visited when he came to PR) and the P5 was pushing 480whp on turbo.

Ill let you know...
 
igdrasil said:
I already stated the problem with high pressure plates, broken gears and stuff. Looks like im having a problem related to crankwalk, if not, its only the crank pulley issue. Will find out soon.

Second, about breaking gears, man, I will try to take pics today, but the gear set in the AWD BPT transmission is compatible with our transmission and very very hard. My friends are doing one RIGHT NOW, so I will try to post some pics if they allow me to.

Turf, Im sorry I dont have kike's number yet (crazy guy FS builder) but I just got my new celphone today and I lost my address book with the last cellphone. Also I been very very busy with college, kids and now with my engine issue.

I dont know if he ever had a problem with it, but rumors are that the protege5 he used to build and tune is now in other hands and was able to push over 600whp, how true is that, i dont know. I just know that in his hands, a year ago i was on the dyno (the same Jeremy and I visited when he came to PR) and the P5 was pushing 480whp on turbo.

Ill let you know...
VERY interested in that BPT tranny thing! Very cool... What years/cars were those from... I'll go out on a limb and put them in my car if I can...

What issues are you seeing that leads you to believe you my have crankwalk? Also, what crank pulley issue? My builder and I are pretty darn confident that crank walk shouldn't be an issue unless you are using one of the bigger plates... then it may come into play... but just don't expect to see it as is... I'm running a 34% plate and set to hold over 500 ft-lb's of torque.

If I can make sure I have a protected tranny (putting in the BPT gears or the like) then I'll push the hell out of the car because I'm confident in my internals and valvetrain... just not trusting the gears.

Later!

Steve
 
TurfBurn said:
What issues are you seeing that leads you to believe you my have crankwalk? Also, what crank pulley issue? My builder and I are pretty darn confident that crank walk shouldn't be an issue unless you are using one of the bigger plates... then it may come into play... but just don't expect to see it as is... I'm running a 34% plate and set to hold over 500 ft-lb's of torque.

My builder is also confident its not a crankwalk issue, but my problems with the crank pulley started 2 weeks (or at least I noticed) after the 4 puck install, with the Yellow ACT plate, and also raised the boost to 13-14psi, went to the tracks a couple of times, plus using that boost daily. I replaced the pulley with one I had in stock and the problem is back again after 2 weeks.

Its like unbalanced, but its also moving IN and OUT, like if its loose, but its not. Well at least I used a lot of force to tighten it.
 
I would say it sounds like you lost a bearing somewhere... that or your clutch is out of balance badly and the harmonic balancer ridge in your crank pulley was absorbing it until it wore out and then all hell breaks loose... I would definitely pull that clutch and switch to something else if you still have an old disc around... I wonder if you had a thrust washer drop out because a cap got install wrong... I'd say pull the oil pans and work your way through the caps and verify they are intact... you can do all that with the car in (just drill the bell housing so you can remove the upper oil pan without dropping the tranny as well)

Later!

Steve
 
TurfBurn said:
I would say it sounds like you lost a bearing somewhere...
The only bearing he could have lost that would cause it to move in and out is the thrust bearing...is that what you are referring to?
 
yeah for the in and out... but I wonder if he could have bad tolerances on some bearings and the crank is actually clearanced way too much and allowign addition vibration... but yes for side to side if he lost a thrust washwer... which can happen I know someone who had that happen and the car ran for a good number of miles without the thrust washers in place.
 
I dont know what to think, but this is the symptoms of my engine that makes me believe something is REALLY BAD:

1. Crankshaft pulley unbalanced, comming in and out and shaking, keyway bad, replaced and bad again.
2. Crankshaft sensor malfunction code
3. Blinking CEL
4. Variable power, sometimes it pulls sometimes it doesnt.
5. Erratic behaviour, sometimes it pings, sometimes goes lean, sometimes too rich and back fires and stalls.
6. CLicking noise comming from the transmission when running and idle. As soon as I touch the clutch pedal, noise dissapears.
7. It all started 2 weeks after 4 puck clutch install.

tadaaaaa do i have issues??? hmmm I have to blame the MPI tunner...hehehe J/K
 
Definitely the MPI ;).

I really think you either have a major machining fault (wrong cap in place and lost thrust washer).... or the new clutch is totally out of balance... I think the crank/clutch/rotating assembly is wickedly out of balance.

The CAS will create a lot of the other problems you are seeing... (fuel etc)
 
LOL That MPI comment was funny! that's some goood soup!
 

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