I'm trying to do it by the end of next summer without using credit. Hard. I used the money saved for my engine management to buy diamond earrings for my GF x-mas present. I'm really keeping it low key until I build up the engine though.mx3ownzj00 said:Damn you guys. I'm trying to figure out a 2-yr savings plan to hit 300whp...
No he's not the only one!!! I had a FMIC....they said my warranty was voided due to NOS....which i've never had...and then it was a MBC...which ive never had and when those failed they said my FMIC was pushing to much power for my car.. Give me a break...ok anyways sorry for threadjacking lol.strongbear0 said:Tell that to the man that started the thread. He blew the motor on stock boost and I guarentee he is not the first. Yes, the car is rich but it leans out under boost in low rpms under load. Why? because you are at 1/4 or 1/2 throttle and in boost. I would suggest everyone get a wb02 to watch the afr's and that way you can see the lean spots I am talking about. So it was not exactly built safe. It was built to make a quick buck and they were obviously not concerned with longevity.
<------- You have a customer in about 1-2 years!MAMotorsports said:Our short blocks are fully machined and deburred.
When we build our motors we do the whole nine yards.
Our short blocks come with:
CP Pistons
CP Gold ring package
Oliver billet rods
Toga bearings
ARP Main studs
ARP head studs
We address the crank walk issuse by having a second thrust bearing machined and installed($400), crank nitrated a second time($100) and then micro polished,line hone, square deck, bored, honed, plateau,all oil gallay's chaffered,full block debur,etc.
We do not bore & hone and put new rods in pistons in.Everything is done to spec and a full build sheet comes with our motors.The customer will know all tolerances and specs.
Our motors are $2995, plus core and shipping.