Suggestions for P5 stereo setup for a car-audio newbie???

[Sir Nuke]

SO, if we use the Alpine V-Power 5 Channel amp (MRP-F320) that I believe is the one you were refering to in the first post, its $250 in cruchfields, and advertises 40W X 4 + 120 W X 1 @ 2 ohms, then we are good to go with the stock wires? or NO?

NOW all I have to do is find an adapter to plug into the stock wireing harness so that if in the future I wanted to take out the amp and the sub I could and just plug the harness back into the HU and its nice and clean and no cutting and splicing.....any idea of a brand and part number?

One other question....in a P-5, would you suggest the sub be pointed to the rear or towards the back seats?

 

[1sty]

SO, if we use the Alpine V-Power 5 Channel amp (MRP-F320) that I believe is the one you were refering to in the first post, its $250 in cruchfields, and advertises 40W X 4 + 120 W X 1 @ 2 ohms, then we are good to go with the stock wires? or NO?

NOW all I have to do is find an adapter to plug into the stock wireing harness so that if in the future I wanted to take out the amp and the sub I could and just plug the harness back into the HU and its nice and clean and no cutting and splicing.....any idea of a brand and part number?

One other question....in a P-5, would you suggest the sub be pointed to the rear or towards the back seats?

The MRP-F320 would NOT require running new leads. That amp isn't quite 40 usuful watts, closer to 30 but not the less effective.

Face the sub toward the hatch, up or down.

There isn'a an adapter that plugs into the stock harness then into the stock radio. You'll have to cut the speaker wires to install this amp. The deck side goes to the wires going into the amp. then the wires from the amp connect back to the car side of the cut speaker wires at the harness. You could also run the amps output back the the speakers directly if you like but for this amp its not nessasary. Use bullet connector crimps for this instead of butt crimps that way if you take the amp out the wires just snap back together.

 

[Sir Nuke]

Cool, I KNEW about which way the wires would go to splice in the amp...its been a while....but I have done a few installs....just not adding a 5 channel. you just mentioned an adaptor and that is what I thought you ment....THAT would make it really easy! lol and the insulated bullet connectors are in fact the way to go...like you said...sure makes the install easier....or taking the sub/amp out later if need be.

I went looking around last night as well...for those of you looking...JL Audio makes the sub that 1st recommended WITH an inclosure...its part number is CS110-W0....and the whole thing runs about $165 depending on the actual source.

The MRP-F320 would NOT require running new leads. That amp isn't quite 40 usuful watts, closer to 30 but not the less effective.

Face the sub toward the hatch, up or down.

There isn'a an adapter that plugs into the stock harness then into the stock radio. You'll have to cut the speaker wires to install this amp. The deck side goes to the wires going into the amp. then the wires from the amp connect back to the car side of the cut speaker wires at the harness. You could also run the amps output back the the speakers directly if you like but for this amp its not nessasary. Use bullet connector crimps for this instead of butt crimps that way if you take the amp out the wires just snap back together.

 

[1sty]

I went looking around last night as well...for those of you looking...JL Audio makes the sub that 1st recommended WITH an inclosure...its part number is CS110-W0....and the whole thing runs about $165 depending on the actual source.

Every authorized dealer should be selling the CS110-W0 for $165 some intenet sites may have it lower but then remember JL has absolutly no authorized internet venders. The 10W0 is a great sub. I just finished another box for a pair of them for my next door neighbors wrangle and once again its POUNDS!

 

[Sir Nuke]

JUST ONE MORE THING on this subject....the box...1st...JL Audio offers their complete unit in one of two configurations...either ported or sealed.....which would you recommend...and why? jus trying to gain some knowledge here.

somthing else....they also have a 12W0....and it should work with the afore mentioned amp just fine.....would there be much of a difference between the 12 and the 10?

 

[1sty]

The only ported Jl boxes I am aware of are the high output or HO boxes which are much more expensive and the lowest one has 2 10W3s not W0s. The difference between the 10 or 12 will be the ten will have a harder kick. it will apear to hit quicker. The 12 will have beter low, realy low bass extension. Basicly areas where only machines and some Orchastra insturments can go.

 

[Sir Nuke]

The only ported Jl boxes I am aware of are the high output or HO boxes which are much more expensive and the lowest one has 2 10W3s not W0s. The difference between the 10 or 12 will be the ten will have a harder kick. it will apear to hit quicker. The 12 will have beter low, realy low bass extension. Basicly areas where only machines and some Orchastra insturments can go.

JL has a ported box OR a sealed box in their POWERWEDGE line for their single 12W0. its either CS112R-W0 for the SEALED box...or CP112R-W0 for their PORTED box.....just thought I would ask....seems to me for what I want...the 10 is the way to go.

once again dude....thanks a million....I believe I a all set to do the upgrade once I make up my mind on the door speakers, collect all the goodies and then find the time to do the install.

 

[1sty]

Good finds! I never knew about the 12 or the tripple 6 ported box. A ported box will add some volume especialy around the ports tuning frequency but it the soiund can't be aloud to drop below that or the sub starts to function as if its not even in a box and will be damaged. I never suggest a ported box unless the customer has an amp with a subsonic filter close to the ports tuning frequency.

 

[Sir Nuke]

Good finds! I never knew about the 12 or the tripple 6 ported box. .

it really wasn't to hard to find....I just went to JL Audios site and they list ALL their products...all you had to know was what size sub you were looking for....and YOU told me that.

its amazing what you can find if you SEARCH the net!! lol

Piece of Cake!!

(stash)

 

[sttl013]

By the way 1st, nice to see another from the industry being honest with people. I recently left Mobile Electronics after 9 years, mostly I was sick of the :bs:

I've had a pretty decent set-up in my P5 for over 6 months, and have to say that with the right equipment, the stock deck gives more than adequate sound quality. I probably wouldn't compete with it, but that's not to say it's impossible.
I started with PPI amps, man these are capable of some pretty amazing things. I chose them first after doing a true side-by-side listening comparison to Eclipse amps of similar rating, and found that the PPI sounded warmer, and seemed to widen the stage more than the Eclipse. These aren't powerhouses or anything, they're just really great sounding amps. They also can handle just about any input you want to give them, too, so I simply wired some RCA jacks directly to the output of the stock HU. A few other manufaturers did this, too - the old ADS powerplates, Audio Control sound processors. We used to do a lot of this for customers wanting to keep the stock decks, like BMW's and Lexus'.

And unless you guys are looking for flash, there's TONS of room for amps under the front seats.

 

[Sir Nuke]

CHECKS IN THE MAIL!!

monday I pick up all the goodies....my local shop had the sub/box in stock...and they deal in Alpine and Rockford Fosgate (door speakers). they ordered the amp and the door speakers and they will be in on monday.....I can FEEL the tunes getting better by the minute...I will gather the other odds and ends then and do the install in my spare time over the next week or so....I can't wait to PUMP UP THE VOLUME!!!!

 

[ransom]

Just wanted to let everyone know who's following this thread that I decided to start things off this weekend by installing new front speakers. After seeing picture instuctions on this board and on protege5online.com, I figured it couldn't be too difficult, and if the speakers didn't make much of a difference, I could just return them to Crutchfield. I installed the 6x8 Polk EX368s. Took me about 90 minutes total. I'm here to tell you that just this upgrade alone made about a 50% improvement in the sound of the system so far. Now it doesn't sound so "muddy." Not a ton more bass response, but vastly improved clarity in the midrange and highs.

So, now I've got to decide what the next step will be. Don't know if it's worth it to replace the rear speakers. Or maybe just skip that and go for the amp/sub combination next.

 

[Sir Nuke]

do both....replace the rears AND add the amp and sub.... you won't be disappointed.

 

[Protege51984]

Thinking about installing new speakers

Ransom,

I like what you have said about keeping the stock HU. I would like to keep the stock HU for security and looks. I haven't been extremely dispointed in the stock six speaker stereo but if you said new speakers improved the sound by 50% then I am all for it. If I was to replace both sets of speakers ( front and back) and leave the tweeters stock would I be happy?

 

[1sty]

can't do it. You would have to run the tweeters off the amp as well or ru new wires and depending on the the stick tweeters resistance you would be dumping half the ams power to just them.

 

[Sir Nuke]

Okay...if you have been following this thread from the begining you may remember that I was doing this very upgrade...and with the Amp suggested by 1st.....I used Rockford Fosgate speakers in the doors and a JL Audio 10W0 sub in the back....

the install FINALLY took place today...and the system is in NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM a disappointment...its killer....after adjusting the gain on the amp a little...it POUNDS....I love it....no alternator whine....clear crisp tunes.......I love it!!!

(stash)

 

[shaftwagon]

i like your ideas

This is a great thread you guys have going, i've learned SO MUCH reading through it!

I'm in the same boat as the rest- i have an '03 p5 and i'd like to keep my stock HU with in dash 6cd changer, but i'm unhappy with the sound.
I was just at a car audio place, and the guy there said that I should buy a 4 channel amp and run 2 to the front speakers and bridge the other two to a sub. I think rocker-fosgate makes one with 50wattsx2 and 190wattsx1 for around 200 bucks.

My 2 questions are- I you don't replace or re-amp the rear speakers, will it really change the sound that much for the driver?
Also, I plan on installing a component system in the front, with crossovers for the tweeters running of a new amp. Any suggestions on this (brand, model, etc.)?

Thanks a ton,
Shaftwagon

'03 P5 Midnite Blue

 

[1sty]

The rear speakers will be determined by you. Some poeple love rear speakers. i personaly hate them and use them only has fill and to raise the sound stage. I personaly think the setup your salemen mentioned would do nicely, Although I hate RF.

I wouldn't amp the rear but you eventualy want to swap them out.

As for the speakers just check out a few local stores and listen to diferent speakers and pick the ones you like best. Bring in your own CDs and take your time. Also if your goig to audition in BB or CC go early when its quiet so you can actualy here the speakers.

 

[shaftwagon]

Thanks for the help, 1st...

Due to budget contraints, I was thinking of installing a component speaker system first (to replace my front speakers) and driving that with my stock head unit. I think the 5x7 and 6.5 inch speakers fit in the Protege5 (according to protege5online.com). Later on, maybe i'll add a power amp and even a sub.

I listen mostly to funk/acid jazz and I was wondering if this kind of setup would give me adequate tight bass. With the stock speakers there is no low-end bass, just muddy mid range bass. Are there any component systems that people would suggest for a good bass response?

 

[Sir Nuke]

Shaft....for a mear extra $50, you could get the amp that 1st suggested for me...the Alpine V-Power 5 channel (40 watts X 4 rms + 125 watts RMS for the sub), yes with line inputs for use with your stock head unit...and drive not only your fronts and a sub..but also the rears as well.....

and yes...the 5 X 7's for the front and the 6 1/2's for the rear will fit with NO PROBLEMS at all.