Stopping

[freekwonder]

Ok i want to go fast, but i want to be able to stop also. i was wonder if anybody has been able to find any crossed drilled or slotted rotors, steal braided brake lines, or new pads yet(i loved the EBC green stuff i had on my ZX2)

 

[mx6929]

so does that Green EBC really work?(800F). how about the red one (1000+ F)? because after i checked as many webs as i could, very few part for MP3's mod. and EBC was one of them. i just wanna make sure it does fit our car.(i had experience that bought the unfit one and waste lots bucks...)

 

[freekwonder]

personally i would go with the greenstuff. i had greenstuff and slotted rotors on my ZX2 and had to becareful of locking my brakes. they were great i loved them. the yellow is for full race. and if you are autocrossing every weekend then i would say go with the redstuff. but i was looking at there site and this is what they have under protege.

1.8 with r/disc 90 -

Front crossed drilled/slotted rotors - D466

Front Green stuff pads - DP2824

Rear crossed drilled/slotted rotors - D458

Rear Green stuff pads - DP2828

you should be able to call up any shop and get the parts with those part numbers, i think im going to check on prices today. yes. now i just need some steal braided brake lines. you think the ones for the escort will fit.

 

[mx6929]

i don't know if it's proper to put the website here 'cause maybe the webmaster is going to delete the post. but i found one site which has EBC Greenstuff in stock and sell 79$ for 1.6 and 1.8 protege. not sure it fits MP3?

 

[wheelguruuu]

I'm not certain but i believe that the only five lug protege's are the new ES 2.0, MP3's, and MP5's. I havent had time to check it out but all of the 1.8's i have seen have 4 lug wheels. Which means the rotors wouldn't fit! Please check this out before you purchase anying.

Wheelguruuu

 

[70]

Brakes are great...

But big brake kits might not be. The two biggest factors for better brakes are good tires and brake pad material. A good set of tires and a good set of pads will help braking in a street car more than big cross drilled/slotted rotors.

The MP3 has good tires so you are covered there, getting a good set of pads that work good for performance street driving will help a lot.

Another thing on brakes. I saw on another Protege web-site someone painted their calipers. It looks cool, but they left the calipers on the car, and masked (taped) off all the other stuff. I'd recomend taking the calipers off the car and buying a caliper painting kit. You'll be able to clean the calipers good and get nice, even coverage for the paint. If you can't/don't/won't take the calipers off, have a shop do it. It's safer that way, you won't risk getting paint or cleaner on the wrong parts.

 

[freekwonder]

wheelguruuu - thanx for the info i forgot the lower models only had 4 lugs, ill check it out before i buy them.

ChrisS - im not worried about bigger brakes i just want some slotted or crossed drill (or combination) and better pads for some better braking

i had slotted rotors and ebc pads on my ZX2 and the thing would stop. really helped in the rain also.

 

[MP3Ben]

Here's my two cents: I'd love to get better brales too, but here's my past experience and some info I got from a friend who drives a BMW M5...

Firstly, if you must go for rotors, getting slotted is better than simply cross drilled. Cross drilled rotors wear your brake pads unevenly, and troubles coud arise from that. Slotted rotors basically wipe clean your pads from top to bottom everytime the slot passes over the pads, so it's better. An issues of Sport Compact Car (or was it Import Tuner) a few months ago had an article on that I think. Not sure, but I'm sure I read it somewhere).

I had cross drilled rotors in my last car, a Ford Probe GT, and not only was brake wear a factor, but evidently my carbon pads warped my cross drilled rotors over time! No, they were not a 'racing app', and were not suppose to cause trouble to a daily driver. But that's what happened, and that's what two independent mechanic shops told me when my brake pedal started to vibrate everytime I tried to stop.

As for the EBC greenstuff, I've had no experience with it, but my friend with the M5 read in his forum from a crazy guy with too much time and money on his hands that the Greenstuff warps rotors big time. Apparently he did comprehensive testing on every single performance brake pad and brake rotor combo available for that Bimmer, and discovered that the majority of rotors were almost the same as a stock application. Pads made differences, but he discovered that the Greenstuff (among others)warped his rotors over time. This was because of the high temp of the pads, supposedly (I don't remember that part very clearly...the conversation was a while back...).

That's all I've got to say, and I'm not discouraging anyone from doing brake upgrades, and neither am I dissing the Greenstuff in particular. All I'm saying is to be very careful, or you might have to do some very pricey repairs in the future. Good luck!

 

[APEXistud]

If i's warpage you're worried about you should have you're rotors Cryo'd. This when they cryogenically freeze the rotor, there by making the metal stranger, which in turn helps to fight the hot/cold extremes that you face under hard street driving. I had the EBC Greenstuff Pads and EBC Turbo Groove rotor combination on my Civic EX and I must say, they were friggin awesome. Much better than any other pad for the price. I also had my rotors Cryo'd since I was living in Michigan at the time "bad weather there".

And yes I agree, until you increase the power/torque on you car, you should need to upgrade the rotor size, since most large rotors are heavier, doing so will slightly decrease your HP/Torque numbers. Just my $.02 cents

 

[mp3ottawa]

There are some valid points made in this topic, but I felt the need to add my thoughts.

Firstly, from my own experiences with my '91 Civic HB, I warped my cross-drilled rotors within a year(forget what pads I was using).
I then switched to slotted rotors (street-carbon pads), and they lasted longer(1.5 - 2 years).

Basically, you have a few factors to consider in terms of braking performance.
Tires, pads, surface-area of brake rotor, cooling potential of the rotor, and weight of the car are all variables that will affect your braking performance(I'm sure there are a few I forgot to mention).

tires: stickier tires will help stop the car better than less-stick tires

pads: you want pads that will offer effective gripping when they are both cold & hot. They may be able to work up to 1000F, but if it takes you 30min. to warm them up....
And, if they are effective up to 1000F, but you are using a stock rotor with no venting or cooling, it will be like having a teflon coating on your pads.

rotors: cross-drilled provide great cooling, so if you are auto-crossing, these will help to give you maximum braking potential(but they will not resist warpage as well because they do mot have as much mass to them as a slotted rotor). A slotted rotor provides a bit of cooling thru it's slots and also cleans the pad(but because it is removing a small layer of pad everytime, the pads won't last as long). A stock, vented rotor provides the most surface area(because there is no holes or slots put into it) for a pad to grip, but because the heat has no where to escape to, they will warp easier with heavy usage.

weight: obviously, the heavier the car, the more momentum needs to be stopped. The less weight to stop, the more effective the brakes will be. If you increase the braking potential of the car(grippier tires, grippier pads, bigger rotors, less weight), you will decrease your braking distances.
(granted, after reading some articles in Sport Car Compact, this has not always turned out to be the case)

Basically, as with most things, you have to find the balance that suits your particular needs.

I apologize if I stated some very obvious points, but I tried to cover the major considerations that should be taken when looking into braking performance.

Hope this offers some clarification for you!