Stock Sound System

[Snacks McGee]

I added an amp and 2 10" subs to my stock and I'm pretty satisfied. Don't really want to get rid of the 6-disc either.

 

[nsxdemon]

many people have actually used the 'repeat' (a single track) option on their cd player?

Hey fellow P5er's....I've found this place a couple weeks ago and have been here quietly since then. Proud owner of 02 White 5-spd P5 with a 4-chan Audiobahn amp powering Infinity Kappa speakers in the doors. No sub just yet but I'm working on it!

Anyway, chuyler I agree with you and Sir Nuke....I DO use the repeat option once in a while until I get really sick of the track. But yea, I'm actually keeping the stock deck cuz it doesn't really attract thieves and it really fits in with the car nicely. No flashy gimmicks and stuff like that.

Never knew it was Nakamichi tho! I had a Nakamichi cd player in my old 93 Accord and I loved it (didn't fit in really well with its amber lights mixing with the green of the rest of the interior).

Just my 2 cents,
nsx

 

[Dave_MP5]

Just curious...what should I do with my factory tweeters if I swap out the factory 5x7s? Should I leave them disconnected or hook them up in parallel with the new ones like they are now with the factory ones?

 

[aydu]

I use the factory head unit and get excellent results. I upgraded the speakers, added a sub/amp combo, and finally amped the speakers with a 4 channel amp - 40 watts per.

Got good, but not great sound. 100% better then stock and something most people would be happy with.

To get the extra clarity, I added a Navone N774V adaptor. This is basically a LOC with a gain control to get higher input voltage from your stock head unit to the amp. Goal was to amplify the signal and not the noise in the signal.

This gave me the sound I was looking for & more. I found that the sound was as good as anything I'd heard at local audio dealers. It allowed me to bump up the signal before the amp gains, so I could run the amp's gains at a lower setting. This eliminated any turn on/off noise or amplified internal noises from the deck - like when seeking a track on the cd.

My goal was also to retain the factory look of the dash. The red/amber interior lighting on the ES is an outstanding feature of the car. I wasn't willing to give that up, unless I had to.

Fortunately, I didn't have to.

 

[d0hboy]

The only advantage I see is the high voltage outputs that most aftermarket units come with
....
And if you're not even going to use the RCAs, lets say you just want more power from your head unit...its still not worth it because I could spend that same $300-400 on a low end amp and wiring kit and get more power and better sound than those internal amps could dream of. . .and some punk won't break into my car to steal it because it'll be under my seat out of sight!

Apologies for stepping into this conversation late (and this thread/forum late, for that matter)-- Does this mean that you do NOT have to use RCA Pre-outs in order to boost your system clarity? I thought that this was a pre-requisite (I'm really in the dark here, though).

So by simply upgrading your speakers to higher quality components--while retaining a stock 15 watt per channel output from the HU-- you're not going to end up messing the speakers with distortion??

I'm considering going with a P5 and have to price out my options for sound. I was originally going to budget for a new head unit and agree with all the points you guys mentioned earlier (that it's more susceptible to theft, etc). So if I try to get an amp, upgraded speakers, perhaps a sub--I _wouldn't_ need an upgraded HU with multiple pre-outs?!

 

[aydu]

You do not need RCA jacks on the head unit to upgrade. With the factory unit, you have two options if you amp your speakers. First is to get an amp that has speaker level inputs. This just takes the output directly from the head unit's speaker leads and amplifies the sound.

Second is to use RCA connections by getting a line output converter. These take speaker inputs, reduce the signal to RCA level, and output RCA connections that can be fed to an amp.

Line Output Converters (LOCs) are available at any place that sells car audio. Cheaper ones tend to introduce noise into the system. The better ones do a great job. Many are adjustable, so you can get a better match between your head unit and amp.

Same logic goes for just adding an amp and sub. You tap into a set of speaker leads and use one of these two methods to feed the signal to the sub amp.

I have the sedan, so the rear speaker leads are visible from inside the trunk. A few wire taps and you have a signal. The P5 has door speakers. I'm not sure where the best place to tap into a signal would be for this model, but there are plenty of people here who are experts on this vehicle.

 

[1sty]

Just curious...what should I do with my factory tweeters if I swap out the factory 5x7s? Should I leave them disconnected or hook them up in parallel with the new ones like they are now with the factory ones?

I would disconnect them unless you can use a multimeter to ensure that with the new speakers the deck is seeing about the same impedance per channel it was with the factory speaker.

 

[1sty]

Apologies for stepping into this conversation late (and this thread/forum late, for that matter)-- Does this mean that you do NOT have to use RCA Pre-outs in order to boost your system clarity? I thought that this was a pre-requisite (I'm really in the dark here, though).

So by simply upgrading your speakers to higher quality components--while retaining a stock 15 watt per channel output from the HU-- you're not going to end up messing the speakers with distortion??

I'm considering going with a P5 and have to price out my options for sound. I was originally going to budget for a new head unit and agree with all the points you guys mentioned earlier (that it's more susceptible to theft, etc). So if I try to get an amp, upgraded speakers, perhaps a sub--I _wouldn't_ need an upgraded HU with multiple pre-outs?!

The higher voltage of a preout is intended to keep outside interference from entering the audio signal. The output voltage of a speaker wire from the factory radio is higher then most aftermarket radios preouts.

The only reason to get a new deck is features, be it slightly more power, dancing lights, subwoofer specific output, built in EQ or crossover, time correction, Easier to hook up to CD changers, Satelite radio, aux input or MP3 to name the more common.

 

[chuyler1]

Just curious...what should I do with my factory tweeters if I swap out the factory 5x7s? Should I leave them disconnected or hook them up in parallel with the new ones like they are now with the factory ones?

The best upgrade I can recommend is component speakers. Place the driver where the 5x7 was and the tweeter in the stock location....JL audio sells 5x7 components but other than that you will have to build a baffle to fit them in. Its worth every penny.

 

[tyusha]

Hello guys. I was wondering if you could recomend a good budget amplifier. I am not at all looking for an outstanding sound system, i just want decent sound quality. I can't spend too much money on this at all. 300 dollars on amp and wires would be pusing it too far for me. I would be willing to even buy a used amp. Also I am an absolute noob as far as car audio goes, but would prefer to do the job myself. I have no idea how hard/easy it would be. I am not planning to add a sub - need my trunk space and want to keep the weight down. So any sujestions are welcome. Thanks, Vik.

 

[Poseur]

Hello guys. I was wondering if you could recomend a good budget amplifier. I am not at all looking for an outstanding sound system, i just want decent sound quality. I can't spend too much money on this at all. 300 dollars on amp and wires would be pusing it too far for me. I would be willing to even buy a used amp. Also I am an absolute noob as far as car audio goes, but would prefer to do the job myself. I have no idea how hard/easy it would be. I am not planning to add a sub - need my trunk space and want to keep the weight down. So any sujestions are welcome. Thanks, Vik.

You could've posted a new thread instead of resurrecting this, dude, but all the same, you're prettymuch set if ALL you want for the $300 is an amp an wires. Check KnuKonceptz for wires, they've got complete kits that're plenty affordable. definately sub-$50 As for amps, lots of options, but prettymuch anything is gonna drive your speakers toohard.

Personally if all you want to spend is $300, I'd get some nicer 5x7's that'll handle a bit more power okay, and a 2channel amp. CHeck the Infinity refrences, but go listen to the speakers with some of YOUR music before you buy. From that point, you should be able to find a decent 50x2 amp for the mid-hundreds and still stay close to your budget. For amps, check out Eclipse, Nakamichi, Alpine, JL... possibly a couple others, but no cheapies, it makes a difference.

Ideally if you up your budget a couple hundred more, you can get a NICE set of component speakers. These'd likely be 6.5's so you'd have to make an adapter,but this is pretty easy. The best thing of all to do is make a good quality .wav disc of some of your favorite music (cover it's full range from hiphop to polka if you listen to it) and go do ALOT of listening. You'll slowly train your ears to hear nuances of speakers and they'll make the decisions for you. Best part is you get to go listen to speakers. and like I said, as many as possible. don't exclude those you think are out of your price range. if you hear them and they are better, just try to afford them, it'll make the difference later on down the road when you're thinking "I'd have paid that extra hundred bucks for nicer sound"

As far as wiring everything up, nope it's not that difficult. And there's lots of info here if you search, as well as one of the best-versed bunch of regulars on the webat your disposal here should you come across any particular problems.

 

[tyusha]

Thanks. I forgot to mention i got aftermarket speakers already. There just isn't enough power - distortion. That's why i want amp. I also said that 300$ for me is pushing it a bit too much. I don't need any superior quality. Just something decent. Still open to sugestions, thanks, vik

 

[servoeyes]

How much can your aftermarket speakers handle for power? The EA3422 is a 4 channel eclipse that can be had for ~200$ if you bargain hunt. That'll put out ~(100W+)x2 when bridged. Also look into JL's e-series stuff...it all depends how much power you want. Eclipse makes a 2 channel model that'd be good. Alpine makes a good, less expensive 2 channel. JL's e2150 is about 170$ at woofersetc.com. The have a more powerful alpine on that page MRV-T320 that's about 10-20$ more. Anywho...you should look at their policies, because people aren't supposed to sell JL and Eclipse online like that, but they still claim to give you a warranty, so check that out before you buy.

 

[Poseur]

Oh, gotya, what speakers are they?l in that case, you should be perfectly fine with getting a $30 wiring kit from KnuKonceptz and there's a TON of good amps out there that can be had for the <$200 range. A really nice example is this alpine from crutchfield. It'll give you a SUPER clean 80w per channel that your speakers should love http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fh7uMk...=0&c=3&g=110&I=500MRVT320&o=m&a=0&cc=01&avf=N It can likely be found for less elsewhere, but be wary of authorized vendor status soasto maintain warranty and make sure you're not getting b-stock. I'd also highly reccomend Eclipse, they're only available in stores, but look into 'em. Their low end stuff is still very clean. I know our shop's got a 50wX2 on sale right now for about $130. since it's last year's and the new stuff is trickling in.

 

[pr5owner]

people upgrade since the stock deck wont do...

mp3's/wma, RCA outs, CDTEXT, sirrus radio or XM radio, DVD and DVD - A, (will play CD-R and RW) match aftermarket interior (mine is now LED blue), single din + Cubby, removable faceplate,

 

[tyusha]

Oh, gotya, what speakers are they?l in that case, you should be perfectly fine with getting a $30 wiring kit from KnuKonceptz and there's a TON of good amps out there that can be had for the <$200 range. A really nice example is this alpine from crutchfield. It'll give you a SUPER clean 80w per channel that your speakers should love http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fh7uMky21qx/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=110&I=500MRVT320&o=m&a=0&cc=01&avf=N It can likely be found for less elsewhere, but be wary of authorized vendor status soasto maintain warranty and make sure you're not getting b-stock. I'd also highly reccomend Eclipse, they're only available in stores, but look into 'em. Their low end stuff is still very clean. I know our shop's got a 50wX2 on sale right now for about $130. since it's last year's and the new stuff is trickling in.

Thanks a tonn for the info. I deally i would want the amp to have 4 channels, and try driving the rears for just bass. My friend has similar set up and his system kicks ass. Most people think he has a sub. I just basically want cleaner sound. The speakers i have (dont laugh) are lightning audio component fronts and coaxials in the rear doors. The speakers have very clear highs, and decent lows, but as soon as you crank the music up there is a bunch of distortion. Here are the specs
front components
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/item.pl?sku=LITB168C&vq_id=none

rear coax
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/item.pl?sku=LITB1602S&vq_id=none

anyway, hope this helps. I'll lok into more amps you guys sujjested

 

[servoeyes]

What kind of system does your friend have? What type of car? It's gonna be hard to get the rears to provide any bass where they're located. Anywho...a good 50wx4 amp should cover you...the Eclipse EA3422 that I have is a great deal. You can check out Alpine as well. Those are my suggestions.

 

[pr5owner]

its best to have subs for clear and loud bass but if you don't want to lose trunk space you can get 6" woofers, not that big if a boom but better than stock, they do require an amp to get decent sound,

http://www.etronics.com/listproducts.asp?catid=373&store=

pyramid LOL

 

[tyusha]

What kind of system does your friend have? What type of car? It's gonna be hard to get the rears to provide any bass where they're located. Anywho...a good 50wx4 amp should cover you...the Eclipse EA3422 that I have is a great deal. You can check out Alpine as well. Those are my suggestions.

He has a Proe ES he is 2001es on this forum. He has a page on car domain http://www.cardomain.com/profile/2001proes where he describes how his amp is tuned. He has infinity components up fron tand coaxes in the back. His rears are obviously in the rear deck --> a lot of space for that bass to really get amplifiied. And i gotta say he has a lot of bass. This is the amp:http://hardwarecentral.dealtime.com/xPR-Alpine_MRV_F540~RD-109281840772
As far as me, i guess i'll keep searching...

 

[servoeyes]

He has a Proe ES he is 2001es on this forum. He has a page on car domain http://www.cardomain.com/profile/2001proes where he describes how his amp is tuned. He has infinity components up fron tand coaxes in the back. His rears are obviously in the rear deck --> a lot of space for that bass to really get amplifiied. And i gotta say he has a lot of bass. This is the amp:http://hardwarecentral.dealtime.com/xPR-Alpine_MRV_F540~RD-109281840772
As far as me, i guess i'll keep searching...

Well...if you're gonna have the coaxes in the rear doors, then it's really not gonna get you the same type of bass as his setup. With your speakers, you won't really need much more than 50W...if you get a nice amp that's got 50-55W RMS like the Alpine MRV-F340...the model below your friend's. that's 55W RMS...CEA-2006 rated. It's a bit more on the expensive side. You could also look into the same amp I have, which is 50Wx4. You should be able to find both closer to your price range.