Steps to get 300WHP

brennan said:
Also what is the best clutch to get, I see alot of people getting the street clutch from ACT 4 puck, is that enough??


Also juan I would love to here from you about getting us msp'ers to 300Whp(2thumbs) (2thumbs)
ACT Stage IIR is what I'm running and it holds 12.5+

PIC1.jpg
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brennan said:
I should post all these q's in the same post but I think of more as I go,

What type of gauges should you have if you are going towards 300whp
or any other type of monitoring system??
EGT
BOOST
A/F (A Little Bit Usefull)
 
mspeed101 said:
Depends on what size turbo. Be more specific?
The T-25 can get you to 300 WHP but, it will be struggling and making a very hot charge. I would not recomend it. A GT-28 or even some T3/4's, even though there are newer models on the market should be just fine (And less $$$ than the new Hawtness!!)
 
It sounds like you are starting from scratch and need to do some reading up. Start with the bolt on mods, and do boost increase/tuning last to maximize your power. I plan on getting to 300 whp with the stock turbo. A lot can be said of aggressive tuning. I am going with water/alcohol injection along with an upgraded SMIC to allow room for certain timing advances to create max HP throughout the powerband. I will not do this till I get forged guts, which is probably not till next summer.
 
brennan said:
what's better a SRI or a CAI
Don't get into this on here. There will be 10 pages of people arguing. Here is the deal:
The CAI get air from outside your car (around the left fender). This cooler air is more dense and then your IC cools it down more, thus creating a cooling your turbo (before IC) and cylinders (after IC).

The SRI is shorter, and thus delivers air more easily and efficiently to the turbo. That air is hot engine air, so an already hot turbo gets even hotter.

I believe the best way is the way I have it set up (expensive and time consuming). I have the ram-air setup. I modified the regular protege SRI that came with the ram-air hood to fit the MSP (a b**** to do). Contrary to popular belief it does not ram air. It just delivers cold air from outside funneled to your SRI, and you get the best of both worlds. Take the information and do some research yourself and decide what's best for you, a CAI or SRI. If you ask you're going to get pages of people arguing with no real good information.
 
Well I currently have a custom CAI, I just wanted to know what would be better for going towards 300whp that is all. Not trying to start a flame war.
sorry guys
 
I think jurgs explained it pretty well... each has its own advantages. Everyone has a different idea which is "best"... if you've got one, try the other and see which you like better.
 
It doesnt matter what kind of intake you have as long as you replace the stock box. I am gonna get a sri because I feel there is no need for cai but some people may think other wise.
 
1. ebc $340
2. fmic $850+
3. cai $200+
4. bov that can hold high boost $150+
5. fuel system ie: (bigger injectors, fuel pump, emanage(or some fuel manager) maybe fuel rail) $1000+
6. forged internals $500+
7. exsaust (cant spell i suck at english thasnks you) $600-$1000+
8. bigger turbo $800+
9. new clutch (forgot this one)


and a lot of other littler things that might be need on the way this is my theory for 350 hp i dont think there is anymore but i could be brain farting
 
NoVaMSP said:
forged internals , larger turbo , standalone engine managment , 3" (real) turboback exhaust, front mount intercooler ,a really good clutch, uber light weight wheels (stock weighs 33 lb with rubber) , motor mounts , about 12-18 psi (depending on turbo) a better lsd , fuel rail , 440cc injectors , cryo the tranny, jetcoat and wrap everything, custom exhaust mani , port everything ,look into axle a pinch of fairy dust ,some luck and alot of cash and patience

Id say with all that you would have alot more than 300whp.
 
I think that the weak link in the transmission is NOT the transmission itself, because otherwise MPNick and those guys at HiBoost would have found it by now. I think Mazda just cheaped out and gave us a bad LSD, and found out that it couldn't take much more than 200 hp and detuned the car. Definitely a Quaife or other good LSD would do wonders for traction and durability. I don't think cryoing the tranny is necessary unless you are doing a full-blown drag car, and if you are doing that with a Protege...... good luck :)
 
Hey I have a few more questions,

Would a bigger throttle body be a good idea??
And what is a better managment system tuning this much horsepower??
Haltech, Emanage, MPI, Unichip??

Thanks
 
When you all say forged internals what exactly do you mean, pistons and sleeves (Do our motors have sleeves? My accord does) With a 500 price tag, I am guessing you all are just talking about pistons...
 
we need rods more than we need pistons.... but what they mean by forged internals are Rods AND Pistons.... this will run you around $1200-$1500 or so... but I guess it could be worse... we could have a cast crank too.. (stock is forged, whoot!)
 
I wouldn't think that it would be necessary for most people... but 300hp, I guess it would help out. But if you get EVERYTHING that has been mentioned... you'll easily be in the 300hp range. So by then I guess you would've already met your 300 hp goal.
 
Brian MP5T said:
The T-25 can get you to 300 WHP but, it will be struggling and making a very hot charge. I would not recomend it. A GT-28 or even some T3/4's, even though there are newer models on the market should be just fine (And less $$$ than the new Hawtness!!)
We made 328whp with a T-25 that we reworked along with ported and polished the manifold and turbo exhaust housing.

That was at 15psi. We will dyno it again later this month. It now runs 21psi.
 
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